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First time feeding is tomorrow...

There is probably no reason to use the lamp at all, if you have a UTH. Frozen pinkies are more accessible (effectively cheaper), versus live, which may be why they opt to use frozen. Your chances of a successful feeding would be higher with a live pinky, and your chances of success go down each time you try and fail to get the snake to feed, meaning it's better to not mess around with a series of unsuccessful feedings. If you can't buy live locally (at a reasonable price) then I guess you can't do it.
 
If I feed him live now can I switch back to f/t later or do I have to continue feeding him live, I dont mind it, Ive just heard it can hurt the snake if it is not hungry. Are there people that feed both f/t and live to the same snake without any problems feeding? one last question, are snakes that eat live food more agressive, and tend to bite more?
 
I have left him alone now for 2 days and he seems to be happy, he coils up and goes to sleep in the day time in his cold hide and comes out at night about 9:00 and explores for awhile, and hangs out on top of his warm hide for awhile, In plain site. and eventually heads up to the top of his viv to the gap under the screen. I am going to try and feed him again on wednesday or thursday and he is staying in the viv until then.

I just got a nice thermometer system to add to his viv today, its basically 2 digital indoor/outdoor thermometers and each one has a probe that can go down to the substrate. So I can measure temps on both the hot and cold side at the same time... Should I wait until I feed him to install the thermometers, or will it cause to much stress on him to take him out. Im going to clean his viv when I install them so he would be out about 15 to 20 minutes..
 
You can usually switch back to f/t from live easily enough. You've only had him a week or so, you really don't need to do a thourough cleaning that often. Spot clean daily, and then once a month take everything out and sterilize. The real trick is not to offer food too often. If he's not ready to eat at this feeding. Wait until the next. I have a feeling that he was just handled a little too much, too soon, and is still a little nervous. Feeding mine in the viv made a big difference, but you need to keep paper in there while you do. That way, they can eat without moving from their hider cave or log. You just put the f/t pinky right in the doorway and leave them alone. Probably the best time would be in the evening when he would be coming out to investigate for food anyway. Then the room will be dark also, making it more comfortable for him too.
 
I got my thermometers in, I managed to install them while Dominoe was sleeping, and not disturb him. very carefully and quietly. AND.. I found out something interesting... The UTH side was a scorching 105 degrees (and climbing) at the substrate level... But the cool side was right at 73.5 degrees. so I unplugged the UTH for awhile. That explains why he spends most of his time coiled up in the cold hide, and coming out and resting on top of the hide on the warm (more like hot) side. the top of the log was probly around 85 My hot side thermometer has 2 sensors on a long wire so I can place them in 2 different spots and switch between them..
 
I thought that would be the case. You need to get a rheostat to control the temperature of your UTH, or you can mount your UTH on a tile or piece of glass and put more space between it and the glass.
 
Pinkies and Fuzzies can't bite, so there is zero chance of the snake being hurt. No, I don't think it will make the snake more aggressive. They still bite the pinky, even if it is dead already. Mine that eat f/t will eat live or f/t. Switching back and forth doesn't seem to matter. I would also recommend feeding about every 4 or 5 days (even 3 or 4), if you have a young hatchling. The once-a-week thing is another question of economics for the pet store. They'd probably rather keep the snake small, so it's easier to house until sold. How long is the snake, by the way?
 
MegF. said:
I thought that would be the case. You need to get a rheostat to control the temperature of your UTH, or you can mount your UTH on a tile or piece of glass and put more space between it and the glass.
Click to expand...

Yeah Im am in the process of building DdotSpot's version of a rheostat. I am good with electronics.. :)
 
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