• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Help on tanks for snake

MadApocalypse

New member
I plan on getting a corn snake soon and I have 2 tank's im not sure about at the moment

I thought about using this one for it as a baby :
30Long
18Tall
1 feet wide

then when it gets full grown use this one :
4 feet long
21 tall
1 feet wide


also should I get a UTH plus a heating lamp ?
 
Corn snakes really should not need a heating lamp - only a UTH. The reason being is that corn snakes usually require belly heat to digest their prey properly. But with a UTH, you must really have a thermostat to prevent burns and injuries or just wrong temperatures that could harm or snake or make them sick. The UTH should cover about 1/3 of the tank and there should be a hide there. Preferably, you will have several hides so the snake can feel secure if they want to be warm or cool.

As for cage size, I believe the first one has dimensions of a 29 gallon tank, which is what I have used always. When they are a baby in a tank that big, make sure they have lots of coverage and places to hide so they feel secure. Paper towel tubes, and tissues boxes make great hides that are easily replaceable is soiled and obviously inexpensive.

I am still using a 29 gallon tank today with my snake, who is about 6 years old (she's not huge though). I am looking to upgrade his tank soon, but for now that is still roomy enough for him.

Good luck and welcome to the forums!
 
thanks for the help, I wasn't for sure about the heating lamp so thanks for clearing that up.. since you have owned them do you know any good care sheets ?
also I cant seem to find out how many times do I feed them as baby's/sub adults/ adults ?
 
If you read through the all stickies in basic care/feeding/health issues and such, that'll give you good knowledge about each subject.

Also, look up the Munson Feeding Plan, it's a great guideline on what and when to feed your snake. However, it's only a guideline so you don't need to be exact with it - I let my snake get a few grams over the next weight before moving him up a mouse size. There's a great thread on here 'thoughts on the Munson Feeding Plan' I think it's called that goes into quite a bit of depth.

Sorry, I can't link anything since I'm on mobile, but I hope that helps you!! [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Lol thanks that's actually was what I was looking at and writing down stuff so thanks :)
I have read and been told that baby corn snakes are harder to feed and that sometimes they don't eat and that I should get a adult... did any of you all have this trouble with them ?
 
Be careful with the Munson plan - it is rather aggressive, so definitely be more conservative when moving up sizes as sian.kelley said.

Babies are sometimes more reluctant to feed, but you should be okay as long as wherever you are getting your snake from can assure you that the snake has had at least several meals. I had no problems feeding with my snake when she was a baby.

As for general care sheet, this site will help out a lot and there are books frequently recommended - Kathy Love has a handbook that is very reputable.

Note: The following is my opinion. I am NOT an expert - but I have had my snake for almost 6 years and have read a lot of literature. My tips for general care:

-When you get the corn snake, leave him alone for about 4-5 days, no touching no matter how tempting.

-After a feed, I do not handle for 48 hours. 24 hours is really the minimum time to avoid handling to prevent a regurge.

-I recommend feeding outside of the tank for 2 reasons. (1) Snake does not associate things in its viv with food and (2) no substrate will be stuck to the mouse causing a possible impaction. Of course, some people feed in the viv with no problems, just putting the mouse on a paper towel to avoid getting substrate on it.

-Substrate choices vary - aspen is the most popular choice. I use paper towels layered enough so my snake can burrow. If you pick a different kind of wood chip, be sure to look it up on here because some woods are toxic to snakes even though the petstore sells them. There are also many other choices - coconut fiber, newsprint, reptibark etc. They all have different properties so just do some research on that.

-Fresh water should always be available. I change mine every other day usually. I use tap, because where I live it is safe to use tap - so best judgement on that. Just make sure NEVER to use distilled because it doesn't have the necessary minerals.

- Signs of shed are cloudy colors and blue-er or hazy eyes. Many snakes do not like to eat or be handled when this happens. If the shed is not perfect, there is a sticky on the health forum about how to deal with that. Also, providing a hide box with damp paper towels or spaghnum moss can help. Just be careful not to make the viv too humid because while that will help shedding, it can cause a respiratory infection.

-Ideally you should find a reptile vet near you, just in case anything goes wrong. Signs of sickness include wheezing, discharge around the nose or mouth and out of charecter behavior - for example, if your snake is not alert and a little squirmy when they usually are.

-At least one warm side hide and one cool side hide are ideal, corn snakes like to feel covered. I have also found that my corn snake loves paper towel tubes. She is obsessed with them :). I also have this fake wood climbing structure and I switch her viv around every couple months for stimulation.

-Snakes will escape if they can. Guaranteed. So if you are using a tank with a clip on screen lid, use many of those C-clips.

-A temp gradient is pretty important but a UTH will help maintain that. As I said earlier, use a thermostat with the UTH. If you need a recommendation for that - I use the Hydrofarm thermostat (its not designed for snakes but many people use it with them and it works well and is only 30 dollars on Amazon). Also, you should have a digital temperature probe, I pin the sensor end down with the edge of the warm hide. I also have a heat gun to check temps - and its always cool to take your snake's temperature :). The way my temps work is like this: the cool side is 70-75. Above the warm side on the glass under the substrate, it is 88* F and on top of the substrate it is 85* F. To achieve this setting, I set my thermostat to 103* F. Its important the glass temp is not too hot even if on top of the substrate is good because snakes can burrow down all the way to the glass.

That was a lot I just wrote - let me know if anything is confusing, or unclear. And again - this is just MY opinion. There are people way more experienced than me here who can also always help you out.

Congrats on becoming a snake parent! It really is amazing. Share pictures when you get him/her.
 
yeah I planed on leaving him/her alone for a week (no handling )I have always seen snakes more likely to bite when you feed out side of tank, and is eco earth safe for them to use ? were I live its not safe to use tap water... thanks for all the help I really needed it... im excited to get it I will
 
I have definetely heard of people using eco earth - so I doubt it is harmful. The only thing I could think of that might be a negative is it might hold too much moisture which could lead to mold or too high humidity which could cause an RI. I am not sure though. You should try searching the forum.
 
Eco Earth holds moisture very well. In fact i have heard stories from people that bought Eco Earth and found it to be very moist right out of the bag. It also raises the humidity in the tank somewhat. Most people that use Eco Earth in the snake's Environments prefer to dry it out first in the oven. Too much moisture is bad for a Corn snake. Best humidity is 40% to 60% from the air. Provide a water dish big enough for the snake to not only drink from but to crawl in and soak if he/she wants to. Your snake should get the right amount of humidity from the air and his water dish, unless you live in a desert dry type area.

As far as the Substrates go- I began with Aspen. (Most people use this). Then I tried the Repti-Bark. Both of these are great, and the snakes love to burrow in it. But after going through several bags of the stuff, and trying to find the poop, and scooping it out and putting in new....... It's messy, costly, etc. I ended up using "Zilla Reptile Carpet." (Link below). I have 2 pieces of it cut to fit the tank. When 1 gets soiled, I pull it out, put in the other one, and then clean the one I took out. That way I always have one on standby. It can be used over and over and over......... It's cheap, easy to deal with and made for reptiles. Of course the snake no longer has the option to burrow, so I added an extra "Hide" and he's quite happy.
(Link for the Reptile Carpet) - http://www.petco.com/product/104018/Zilla-Green-Reptile-Terrarium-Liner.aspx
 
Back
Top