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Herpstat or Herpstat ND?

F

Flagg

New member
I'm buying a herpstat for my new rack, an Animal Plastics Economy plastic rack.

I am housing corn snakes in it so there is no need for a night drop. But the ND version comes with built in timer and night drop feature for only $26 more.

Can the timer be used for anything else? Any reason I might need a night drop in the future? Is it needed for breeding corn snakes or ball pythons?
I can't really see any need for it but I don't want to get the cheaper standard one and then discover later on that I should have bought the one with the night drop.
 
From everything I have read, you really shouldn't have a need for a night time drop. I personally would save myself that 26 bucks and use it for food...lol
 
The Herpstat is 500 watts, internal error detection shuts off heat if sensor fails or is disconnected

The ND is 600 watts, internal error detection shuts off heat if sensor fails or is disconnected, has resettable fuse, and audible alarm system.


I bought the ND. If the sensor becomes dis-attached from the unit - you can hear the alarm from several rooms away with the door closed.
 
Herpstat Question

Hey Piper,

Do you happen to know if you change the power matching setting, (I want to tell it my cages are efficient at holding heat) do you set it higher, or lower?

Thanks, Nanci
 
Nanci,

What are you seeing for as far as your temperatures go?

If you’re never reaching your target temperature, then you’ll need to increase the power match setting. If you find yourself constantly overshooting you’re target temperature, you’ll, then you should decrease your power match setting?

With this said, I have a Herpstat II on my enclosure (not an incubator) and have never changed the power match settings and Roxanne seems to be doing fine.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Regards,
Steve
 
It's way overshooting, like 6 degrees. The pad shuts off, but the temp keeps rising. Then the cages hold heat forever. Like last night my furnace was on, (set for 65, I think) and all the thermostats for the glass vivs with screen tops were on, but the new cages never dropped to 78F, (they are plastic with only a small gap around the door and then two 3" vents in the back) which is where I have the thermostat set at the moment to see what happens next time it turns on, if I still get that 6F overshoot or not. I have max/min thermometers on both UTHs that the thermostat is running, so I can see what happenes even when I'm not there.

So you think I should try Low1- meaning I want the power lower? (I hope it's referring to the power, not the enclosure efficiency- low/high- which it doesn't say in the manual!)

NAnci
 
Nanci,

So you think I should try Low1- meaning I want the power lower? (I hope it's referring to the power...)
Click to expand...

You are correct. The power match setting refers to the "power curve" it is using to send power to the device.

A lower setting (higher efficiency enclosure) will provide power more gradually (because your enclosure will retain the heat well) until the desired temperature is reached without overshooting the target temperature (by too much anyway :) ).

A higher setting (lower efficiency enclosure) says “Hey, my enclosure is leaking heat and I’m not reaching my target temperature, so give me more (steeper power curve) power until I have reached it.”

Regards,
Steve
 
Flagg,

Sorry about hijacking your original post. :(

To answer your question, I have a Herpstat II which has the Night Drop built in. I can say, with the one corn I house right now, I have never used it.

I run it at 75 degrees on my cool side (kept there by a 100 watt ceramic heat emitter) and 88 degrees on the glass over my UTH, which will give me 84-ish on top of the substrate.

I would save the Night Drop feature for herps that would benefit for it one.

Regards,
Steve
 
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