hi i have had my snake for about a month he is a 3 year old 3ft corn snake when i fist got him i didn't pick him up for a week just to let him get used to a new home with new smells, i handled him a few times then he was shredding so i left him then i fed him 3 days ago and i went in his viv today and he shot over to me like he was away to attack me then i backed away and tried to pick him up from the other side and he rattled his tail. any help guys?
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i cant pick my snake up!!
- Thread starter david323
- Start date
There's nothing much to say really; you just have to ignore his threats and pick him up. Usually they're just bluffing when they tail-rattle and such, and even if they do bite, it's hardly going to do serious harm.
Just to make sure you're giving yourself the best possible chance, follow this routine at first for handling. Make sure you haven't recently touched anything that could be confused as a food smell to a corn. This includes the obvious like mice/rats but also be aware of meat intended for human consumption such as chicken. To be safe, wash your hands before handling. When approaching the snake, move slowly and confidently. Extend your hand towards him from his side, not from above him, and make contact about midway down the snake's body, not near his head or tail. Pick him up in one fluid movement without gripping tightly, and let him crawl over your hands.
Jerky movements, such as reflexively backing away when he moves forward or tail-rattles, and lingering with your hand out as you work up the courage to touch him, will only cause the snake to become more alarmed. You want to be smooth and confident with your movements.
If he seems stressed while handling - tail rattling, hissing, striking, etc. - handle only for a minute or so and then put him back. Repeat frequently, lengthening handling times until he seems more relaxed. Don't handle within 48 hours of feeding.
Just to make sure you're giving yourself the best possible chance, follow this routine at first for handling. Make sure you haven't recently touched anything that could be confused as a food smell to a corn. This includes the obvious like mice/rats but also be aware of meat intended for human consumption such as chicken. To be safe, wash your hands before handling. When approaching the snake, move slowly and confidently. Extend your hand towards him from his side, not from above him, and make contact about midway down the snake's body, not near his head or tail. Pick him up in one fluid movement without gripping tightly, and let him crawl over your hands.
Jerky movements, such as reflexively backing away when he moves forward or tail-rattles, and lingering with your hand out as you work up the courage to touch him, will only cause the snake to become more alarmed. You want to be smooth and confident with your movements.
If he seems stressed while handling - tail rattling, hissing, striking, etc. - handle only for a minute or so and then put him back. Repeat frequently, lengthening handling times until he seems more relaxed. Don't handle within 48 hours of feeding.
axis1
Fuhgeddaboudit!!!!
Hey david!! How ya been?
Welcome to the forum!!
(BTW, does your snake have a name as of yet?).
As far as I know, corns only become aggressive for one of two reasons: Because they are frightened. And as a response to spotting food!
What you describe sounds like a strong feeding response. (If the person or entity you got the snake from is available, you can probably confirm this easily).
Out of 3 adult corns and 1 yearling that I have, the adult female and her offspring, who happens to be the yearling, both rattle their tails when they know a mouse is imminent OR when they are cornered.
A snake has a different type of hearing than most other animals and they depend largely on near-sightedness and a strong sense of smell. In addition, they are GREAT at sensing FEAR, whether in a prey OR in their owner! When you go to pick it up, you can't hesitate OR shake because they will read this and it will further sensitize them as predators often approach them in a similar way. Also, when entering your snakes enclosure, be sure to make it KNOW you are coming and DON'T, whatever you do, come from behind as you come in to pick it up. A three foot corn isn't going to hurt if it DOES bite, as much as it will probably startle you anyway. So if you approach it as if you KNOW you're getting tagged, it will probably work out better. Either way, corns are very perceptive animals. So if it scares you, maybe wear a pair of gloves? They CAN'T bite through most gloves and I never heard of a corn causing a painful injury either way!
Keep trying! And please keep us updated!!!!
hi i am good thank you axis1 how are you?
thank you!
it seems like he is frightened because he tends to go up the back of the viv and along the roof when i put my hand inside
when i fed him he just went towards the mouse and struck it i haven't heard his tail rattle until today.
thank you!
it seems like he is frightened because he tends to go up the back of the viv and along the roof when i put my hand inside
when i fed him he just went towards the mouse and struck it i haven't heard his tail rattle until today.
Nanci
Alien Lover
I have quite a few adults that will approach me directly when their vivs are opened, because they are hungry and are ready to come out NOW. This can be intimidating.
If a snake is defensive or afraid, it will generally retreat and try to hide (often rattling or whipping its tail) or stay put and rattle and/or threaten to strike. If it is in a threatening posture, I put my hand down quickly flat over the head, which makes it so the snake can't bite, and then proceed to take it out of the viv. It the snake is actively running away, I approach it quickly and confidently and take it out. The more you try to "soothe" it and offer your hand for it to smell, or whatever, the more likely you are to get bitten. Just get the snake out as quickly as possible, with the minimum amount of fuss.
The snakes that come forward to be taken out- you kind of have to know the snake. I have some that are in such a hurry to eat they will strike at anything that moves, and a true feeding strike from an adult is not pleasant (but you won't die, either). If I think a snake is going to fly out and bite, I will hook train the snake so my hands don't have to touch it, either until it is out and "safe," or all the way through the process of weighing and placing in the feeding container.
Obviously the safest way to handle feeding time is to thaw the mice, place in feeding containers, and then thoroughly wash your hands to remove any trace of mouse smell. Snakes still know, though, that it's feeding time, and are going to be on high alert.
You can even train snakes to come to the front of their vivs to be removed for feeding. My hatchlings are all trained to come to the front when I knock on the bin. Generally they know it's feeding time and are lined up, but if someone is not present and waiting I'll tap on the front of the bin. (Usually while I'm a couple snakes before ready to feed the missing one, to give them a minute to respond.) If the snake still doesn't come out, there's a good chance they are blue, and shouldn't be fed anyway.
Regarding snakes that are defensive about coming out; once out, I handle the snake until it is no longer nervous or fearful, definitely not just a short period of time. I'm more inclined to handle longer if the snake is not comfortable being handled, rather than shorter.
If a snake is defensive or afraid, it will generally retreat and try to hide (often rattling or whipping its tail) or stay put and rattle and/or threaten to strike. If it is in a threatening posture, I put my hand down quickly flat over the head, which makes it so the snake can't bite, and then proceed to take it out of the viv. It the snake is actively running away, I approach it quickly and confidently and take it out. The more you try to "soothe" it and offer your hand for it to smell, or whatever, the more likely you are to get bitten. Just get the snake out as quickly as possible, with the minimum amount of fuss.
The snakes that come forward to be taken out- you kind of have to know the snake. I have some that are in such a hurry to eat they will strike at anything that moves, and a true feeding strike from an adult is not pleasant (but you won't die, either). If I think a snake is going to fly out and bite, I will hook train the snake so my hands don't have to touch it, either until it is out and "safe," or all the way through the process of weighing and placing in the feeding container.
Obviously the safest way to handle feeding time is to thaw the mice, place in feeding containers, and then thoroughly wash your hands to remove any trace of mouse smell. Snakes still know, though, that it's feeding time, and are going to be on high alert.
You can even train snakes to come to the front of their vivs to be removed for feeding. My hatchlings are all trained to come to the front when I knock on the bin. Generally they know it's feeding time and are lined up, but if someone is not present and waiting I'll tap on the front of the bin. (Usually while I'm a couple snakes before ready to feed the missing one, to give them a minute to respond.) If the snake still doesn't come out, there's a good chance they are blue, and shouldn't be fed anyway.
Regarding snakes that are defensive about coming out; once out, I handle the snake until it is no longer nervous or fearful, definitely not just a short period of time. I'm more inclined to handle longer if the snake is not comfortable being handled, rather than shorter.
daddio207
THUG FROG !
My corn snakes go from super passive to chasing me around the room when I open their containers. Definitely all have their own personalities.
The only thing I would add to all the great advice is just to make sure the temps are right. A hot snake is a aggressive snake typically..
Oh, are you feeding live or frozen thawed? You will get a more aggressive feeding response with live. You know "kill or be killed/ eat or be eaten" response LOL.....
Welcome
The only thing I would add to all the great advice is just to make sure the temps are right. A hot snake is a aggressive snake typically..
Oh, are you feeding live or frozen thawed? You will get a more aggressive feeding response with live. You know "kill or be killed/ eat or be eaten" response LOL.....
Welcome
Dragonling
Doesn't do "casual"
Even my most docile snakes will rattle and flip their tails at me if I hesitate in picking them up. Confidence is key. Nanci's advice is spot on.
axis1
Fuhgeddaboudit!!!!
I don't know if having your thermostat set at 30c (that's about 86 degrees F) is hot enough to cause your snake to be aggressive. I think Nanci & Dragonling are in the right area. Daddio also asked a good question about LIVE vs F/T which I didn't see an answer to as of yet. In addition to the possibility you reinforced a behavior by repeating it maybe? Your snake probably FELT or HEARD the same or similar vibrations when it was fed and was probably just thinking another mouse was in the vicinity. Pavlov's Dogs Re-visited! Just keep trying with more confidence in your motions (I've actually LIVED by an old saying when I had to do things I didn't like and that were actually contradictory to my very nature: Act As IF, Become As IF). It actually helped me in some hairy situations that were a lot more life-threatening than a potential tag from a corn snake!!).
Glad it seems like you've already begun the process!! Good luck!!
Regarding handling, I usually don't put a snake back until they start to calm down.. I don't want them to associate 'running' with being put back, but rather that they go back after they calm down..
A few of my snakes don't want to be handled and spend their entire time trying to crawl off me. But I also have others that seem to want to visit. I'll put my hand down, or on the edge of the tote and they will come out to it. (not aggressively).
BTW Hello again everyone.. I've not been on the forums much for several months.
A few of my snakes don't want to be handled and spend their entire time trying to crawl off me. But I also have others that seem to want to visit. I'll put my hand down, or on the edge of the tote and they will come out to it. (not aggressively).
BTW Hello again everyone.. I've not been on the forums much for several months.