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Need help with corn snake

I personally would not buy a snake that was only 2 weeks old and not eating.

I would suggest when purchasing a snake, it should be a minimum of 3 months old, has already shed successfully several times, is eating regularly and healthy.

When purchasing a snake online, you're liable to be told anything. You don't always have the option of seeing the snake and you're at the mercy of the "Liar"...ooops, I mean breeder selling it to you.

I prefer to actually see what I am purchasing, be able to look at it, hold it, talk to the owner/breeder, see any records kept on the snake..etc...

Any breeder with any type of work ethic and concern for both the animal and the purchaser should understand this. If not, you don't have to do business with them.

I suggest you go to pet shows, expos, reputable breeders in person. Yes you may have to drive a little ways, spend some time and gas. But you're going to spend the same amount of money, if not more, in shipping and insurance fees, and you still don't know what you're going to end up with in the mail.
 
My first corn snake was 12 grams when I got him and my second was 14 grams when I got her. If they are established feeders you should have few problems. Sometimes they do go off their feed a bit with the stress of shipping and coming to a new home, but with a little patience and maybe a small trick they soon come around.

My second corn was like that. She had a big poop in the deli cup on the way home so I had no doubt that she was eating for the breeder. Also she was 14 grams which is either a very large hatchling or a baby corn snake that has been eating. She was only 6 weeks old. She did need to be put in the covered deli cup overnight with the pinkie at first. I'm sure she also went from eating in a dark rack to a 20 gallon long tank, so the delicup mimics the privacy of the rack.

She's an enthusiastic eater today!

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I never found that the 20 gallon long overstressed my babies, but I only have a few snakes so consider my limited experience.

I've bought from a show, a pet store, a breeder and my last one was a formally adopted adult rescue. Every one has been a great experience. Any individual snake can have a health problem even from the best of breeders, though you increase your odds by buying from someone you know from the boards here or someone who has a good and widely known reputation. Do check out the faunaclassifieds.com BOI (Board of Inquiry) before buying. Be sure to read or at least scan through the entire thread on a seller because some are not what they seem from the title. This will become apparent if you read the whole thing.

Best wishes. It is difficult to go wrong with a corn snake.
 
Just a few thoughts with hatchlings :)

The main reason why I recommend starting with a small tank is environmental control. I prefer 10 gallon tanks with the appropriate size UTH (1/3 bottom coverage). Hatchlings do much better with a more level heat gradient which a small tank can provide easier.
Another recommendation I make with newly acquired hatchlings is to cover the sides of the tank with paper for a few weeks. This will reduce stress! Take a side off every week until all sides are bare. I can't stress enough the importance of reducing stress in newly acquired snakes!!
Definitely purchase a WELL STARTED hatchling! By buying online you can be mislead easily but there are sellers, like SMR for example, that have honesty and integrity.
I can tell more disheartening stories about what I witness at Expo's than my online encounters with other breeders and sellers. At least online you can take the time to check out their reputation.
 
First, I deeply respect daddio and I take seriously what he says.

I will add my 2 cents to his already good advice about covering the sides and limiting the size of the enclosure for heat control. That is one of several ways of giving a young snake security. Hides, other clutter like tp tubes (hides by another name), fake plants, and other cage furniture provides cover. The key is lots of hiding places. The more the merrier. My personal experience with 10 and 20 gallons is that for me there is little difference in regulating the heat in either. But we all have different experiences and daddio has decades of experience.

In general I notice that when I move a snake, young or older, even with the same cage furniture, but to a different size or location tank, there is usually 24 to 48 hours of exploration activity. This involves much exploring of the dimensions of the enclosure and every hide, fake plant, etc. There is also more substrate tunneling than usual. Once the snake knows where everything is, they seem to rapidly revert to their normal activity pattern. I even see upticks in activity when I change old substrate for new in the normal course of cleaning.

They do know their homes, very, very well and are sensitive to changes. In my observation this activity uptick does not occur after they are returned to familiar quarters after a vet visit (something I assume is more stressful than usual) or similar disruptions. They just return to "home" almost as if nothing has happened.

This is all anecdotal and different keepers have different experience. My point is that the principle here is more important than the exact means of achieving it. And while many will agree with the principle to provide extra cover and give snakes a period of adjustment to minimize stress, even that is not universally agreed upon. I tend to err on the side of caution so I always give a snake time to adjust and am extra cautious during that initial adjustment period.
 
Thanks for the respect, DollysMom,
Also your 2 cents is worth so much more :)
My preference for 10 gallons is mainly based on my experience of using up to 200 of them at one point LOL. A 10 verses a 20 is minimal when it comes to floor area. My 10's are 200 square inches verses 288 with the 20's. I'm ok with using 20's too. Used many of them with the same success.
I've also dealt with hundred's of hatchling snakes, lizards and amphibians over the years. I've learned that reducing stress is right behind environment in importance.
 
Sorry for being gone so long very busy week after thinking it through I decided to purchase a roughly one and a half to two year old creamsickle male corn and have him in the 50 gallon for two days now he is doing great have not tried to feed him yet I was planing on waiting a week what do y'all think I am trying to keep handling to the minimum this first week thank y'all for all the help
 
Most people will tell you to leave the snake alone for a week or two so it can acclimate and get used to its new surroundings. I agree with that especially if they are babies. But if your snake is 2 years old already, and is used to being handled on a regular basis, I don't see any problem in handling.

As far as the feeding, waiting a week is ok. Snakes can go a long time without food so there is no rush there. If you know when the snake was last fed, that gives you a point of reference. Baby snakes eat about every 5 to 7 days. Adolescent snakes about every 7 to 10 days, and the full grown snakes about every 10 to 21 days, depending on how old they are and how much they weigh.

Right now, the main thing you should be concerned with a new snake is: Do you have plenty of places for the snake to hide? The more hiding places in the cage the better. Lots of those fake leaves and vines, empty boxes, half logs, etc.... Also make sure your temperatures are correct. This is where most corn snake owners go wrong. You'll need a reliable heat source and thermostat to regulate it. There should be a Hiding Spot somewhere in the cage that stays around 82 to 86 degrees all the time. The rest of the cage can be room temperature (so long as it doesn't drop too cool.)
 
He has 1 half log 3 leaf vine things 1 larger rock hide that I used for my bearded dragon and about 2-5 inch of aspen bedding to hide in about 2 inches on hot side then up to 5 on the cool side warm side ambient temp is about 83 but the floor is up to about 86-88 cool side floor is 79
 
you stated he was in a 50 gallon cage. That's a pretty big cage for a corn snake. Nothing wrong with that, but it should have tons of hiding places. Bigger cages means you need more clutter. I'd have about 8 or 10 of those fake vines, possibly even go all the way around the tank. And several more of those half log or rock hides.
 
Hey y'all he is still doing great only thing is he seems to like the cool side a bit more and to me the temps seem better with the heat lamp turned off I have a uvb lamp still on I have been told that snakes don't need uvb like lizards but I have extra bulbs so I might as well use them so y'all have any lighting suggestions to still provide him with a "basking" spot but not increase the temp to much
 
Corn snakes do not use basking lights. They don't require them.

Ordinary room light is all you need. Try to give them about 12 hours of ambient light and 12 hours of no light each day to keep their "Body Clock" and Metabolism in check.

Having a "Basking Light" overhead can heat the cage too much and it will also dry out the air lowering the humidity.

Most of us place a Heat Mat under 1 end of the cage hooked up to a good thermostat. We then place a "Hide Box" directly over the heat pad. We check the temp inside the Hide Box, and adjust the thermostat until the temp inside the Hide Box is about 85 degrees. (Anywhere from about 82 to 86 is generally ok).

The other side of the cage is left un-heated and allowed to be at room temperature (about 70 to 76). Try not to let it drop below 70. I keep my cool side at about 73 and the warm side at about 85 all the time.

The snake will go to both sides, warm or cool, depending on "What he wants to do" and not what you think he should do.
 
I already have the under tank heat pad in place it's just hot here high 70s in my house I just don't want to over heat him
 
Willmccown said:
I have a uvb lamp still on I have been told that snakes don't need uvb
Click to expand...

You got a Creamsicle corn right. Low output UVB bulbs used with corn snakes is generally ok even though unnecessary. BUT it's been known to cause eye issues and possibly blindness with amelanistic snakes. The lack of melanin in the eyes makes them sensitive to UVB lighting. The stronger the UVB the worst it can be.
 
I fed him yesterday with a thawed small mouse he did really well came out from the bedding smelled it and took it in about 10 seconds watched him eat it then left him alone check this morning and he is doing great thank y'all for all the help
 
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