Hi, Awesome site! Im a new Corn owner, i have a Lavender Corn approx 24 inches long that i bought from a Reptile Expo. I currently have a 20L Terrarium that he is housed in. I have a zoomed uth 10-20 gallon size on the warm side of the tank, it is controlled with a zilla thermostat, i have two digital thermometers with probes on each side. I have the thermostat probe and the warm side thermometer together right on top of the uth in the substrate. They are secured to the bottom to prevent movement. Ive had issues controlling the temps. The thermometer and the thermostat seems to be off by several degrees. Example the thermostat can be turned up to almost 90 but the thermometer itself may only read 82-85. I cant seem to get the cold side to maintain appropriate temps eitheir. The snake has had its successful feeding since i brought him home and handles well. Im just concerned about the temperature issues. Any info or hints would greatly be appreciated!! Thanks!
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New Corn Owner
- Thread starter Emtlusher
- Start date
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
The "Cold Side" should just be room temperature. The heat pad has nothing to do with the cold side. As long as the room doesn't drop below 70 degrees the cold side is fine. The warm side should be between 82 and 88. Most of us opt for around 85. The temp you actually read should be the temp of the Glass Bottom of the cage. You might have to set the thermostat a bit higher because the heat has to travel through the glass. I have to set my thermostat at about 91, but when I actually measure the cage bottom inside it is usually between 85 and 86.
Depending on what type of thermostat you have (On/Off or Creeping/Maintaining) there will be minor fluctuations. Most cheap thermostats are of the ON/Off type, meaning when the desired temp is hit, the heat cuts off. But the heat will climb another degree or two before it levels off and then it begins to drop. Then when the target temp is reached again, the heat pad cuts back on once again, but it takes a few minutes to heat up so the temp continues to drop until it does. With these types of thermostats, if you set them at 85, you can expect fluctuations from about 80 to 90. That's the best you're going to get and all you can do. You can get the Creeping/Maintaining type thermostat which senses the target temp and instead of turning off it cuts back power gradually and tries to maintain the targeted temp. These thermostats are very good but they also cost about 200 bucks compared to the 30 bucks you probably paid.
Depending on what type of thermostat you have (On/Off or Creeping/Maintaining) there will be minor fluctuations. Most cheap thermostats are of the ON/Off type, meaning when the desired temp is hit, the heat cuts off. But the heat will climb another degree or two before it levels off and then it begins to drop. Then when the target temp is reached again, the heat pad cuts back on once again, but it takes a few minutes to heat up so the temp continues to drop until it does. With these types of thermostats, if you set them at 85, you can expect fluctuations from about 80 to 90. That's the best you're going to get and all you can do. You can get the Creeping/Maintaining type thermostat which senses the target temp and instead of turning off it cuts back power gradually and tries to maintain the targeted temp. These thermostats are very good but they also cost about 200 bucks compared to the 30 bucks you probably paid.
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
Most of us do not like to use Heat lamps. Lamps tend to dry the air out too much and then you'll have humidity issues. There are some folks that use heat lamps and seem to do ok with it. Keep in mind, "Any" type of heat will require a way to regulate it, otherwise it can get too hot. Those heat lamps get hotter than the heat pads do. So if you use a heat lamp, you should also put a thermostat on it.
All that being said, this is what I do -
I have a similar problem as you. It gets cold in my house sometimes. I use 2 heat pads under the cage. Each heat pad has its own regulation. I keep the warm side of the cage at 85 to 86 degrees. The 2nd heat pad is for the cool side and I keep it set at 73 degrees. Most of the time it's not even on. It only kicks on if the temp drops below 73.
All that being said, this is what I do -
I have a similar problem as you. It gets cold in my house sometimes. I use 2 heat pads under the cage. Each heat pad has its own regulation. I keep the warm side of the cage at 85 to 86 degrees. The 2nd heat pad is for the cool side and I keep it set at 73 degrees. Most of the time it's not even on. It only kicks on if the temp drops below 73.
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
I use 2 rheostats. A lot of folks don't like rheostats. Not sure why. Unless you can afford a really good thermostat (some of them are 200 bucks) the temperatures tend to fluctuate up and down as the thermostat cuts on and off. But with a Rheostat, it takes a little longer to finesse it and get it set, but once set there is no fluctuation.
I hope to eventually purchase a Herpstat (link below). They are very good thermostats, probably the best on the market. This one thermostat can control 2 different zones, they are programmable and can even initiate a "Night Drop" temp to simulate natural temps. However they are very expensive.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36
I am saving up for this unit, but currently use 2 Rheostats which actually work very well.
I hope to eventually purchase a Herpstat (link below). They are very good thermostats, probably the best on the market. This one thermostat can control 2 different zones, they are programmable and can even initiate a "Night Drop" temp to simulate natural temps. However they are very expensive.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36
I am saving up for this unit, but currently use 2 Rheostats which actually work very well.