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Newb questions

C

Covanant

New member
I'm new to snakes.i just got a one month old creamsicle corn.
For now I have her in a 10gallon and I'm using aspen.
My questions are.
My digital thermostat reads 107 with the probe above the heatmat,is that too hi?
And if I handle her in my hand she's very docile and gentle,but only after she bites me and strikes me many many times while I try to grab her when in the aquarium.is that normal?
She's been in since Sunday and I have not fed her yet as the breeder told me to wait until Thursday or Friday.
Seems like all she does is hide.
 
I would say your hot spot is a bit too hot. A temperature around 87 Fahrenheit is ideal.

As far as biting, you have to remember that baby corn snakes are food for a lot of things, so when you first grab her, she probably thinks you are a predator. I find it's easier to pick up baby corn snakes by scooping from underneath. Most corn snakes hide a lot of the time, even as adults. They're crepuscular, meaning they're active in the early morning and evening, so that's when you will most likely see her moving around.

I would recommend not handling her for about a week, so she can settle in. At the end of that week, feed her and leave her alone for at least two days to digest. Then you can start handling her.
 
Thanks,so I guess I need a rheostat or a thermostat of some kind?
Funny thing is I caught her today half on the mat and half off.after handling her for a few minutes the temp dropped to 102.from having the lid off I guess?
 
She also might get a bit more docile in the enclosure once you get that heat lowered. Hot snakes are a lot more active and aggressive. You would be too if you were forced to live in a sauna :p

Yes, you NEED NEED NEED some sort of temp regulation. A thermostat is preferable, a rheostat is possible with a consistent room temp and a bit more attention payed. You can get an excellent thermostat designed for heat mats on the cheap if you search Amazon for hydrofarm.
 
Ordered one already.
Weird thing is the temp inside the tank(not the mat)is 74 with the light on,but next morning when I check its 64 after the light is turned off all night?
 
You also don't need a light. Some people like them for viewing but your snake doesn't need or want it. Do you have at least two hides for her? Corns like a selection of snug, dark hides. My own experience is that my hatchlings don't like being picked up at first (although mine aren't biters), but they're calmer when they were resting rather than active when I pick them up.
 
Only one hide so far,which is located central in the tank but has only used it once.
Without the light it gets too cold,any way to bump up the temp?
 
My suggestion (which a lot of people will probably suggest as well, as it is most likely the most common way to keep corns): have a thermostat for the UTH - as you've said you've ordered), have at minimum two hides; one for the cool end and one for the warm end. I would even say more than that, and lots of clutter (carboard tubes, fake plants, even crumpled papers) to help the little one feel secure.
The UTH should be covering about 1/4-1/3 of the tank, at one end of the tank ONLY and not in the middle. You want a heat gradient so s/he can thermoregulate as needed.

Does your house drop to 64F at night? I'd suggest keeping your home slightly warmer than that. But corns can have a bit of a night time drop, as long as you've got the UTH... especially for after a feeding, as they need that belly heat to properly digest!

Finally, please check out the care sheet sticky on the main page, if you haven't already!! VERY INFORMATIVE :)

All the best! Looking forward to a picture or two ;)
 
Thanks,all great ideas.
So what is the min.i should let the tank temp drop to safely and without causing any stress to the snake?
 
Thanks,all great ideas.
So what is the min.i should let the tank temp drop to safely and without causing any stress to the snake?
Also my breeder said he was due to eat today,should I wait longer?
 
As long as the warm side is at 87° on top of the glass that is directly over the UTH the cool side will even out, and the snake can choose where he feels comfortable.

I agree, ditch the lamp. Not necessary and with some bulbs they can actually damage their sight.

When you get the thermostat (VERY necessary with a UTH) set it to 87° with the probe thermometer stuck directly over the middle of the glass above the UTH.

A minimum of two hides is ideal, one at each end, and with a baby I have found that toilet paper tubes that are squashed down at one end and buried under the substrate in a few locations makes them happy.

Here is my info sheet on what I have found best for corns, I hope it helps.

On every topic on this site are "stickies" at the top of each page; they are extremely helpful hints and knowledge from the moderators or breeders who are on or run this site. Read them all.

Have you done any book reading about corns? If you haven't, take the time to get at least a couple of books on corns. Two of the best were written by members of this forum, and will get you in the know on everything corns.

http://www.amazon.com/Corn-Snakes-Co...athy+love+corn

http://www.amazon.com/Corn-Snakes-Ca...+don+soderberg

Here is a good guide for feeding corns, when to move up in size of prey. Most of us here use it, some think it is a little aggressive for younger corns so there is room to wait until your baby gains even 5g more than the chart says. It is known as the Munson Plan.

http://www.medusa-corns.webs.com/feedingchart.htm

I suggest getting a digital scale if you don't already have one, you need to weigh your corn and the prey. Almost all corn info is taken in grams, this is one I recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJFJDGS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep a journal on all my corns, I weigh each before feeding, look them over for any injuries or anything out of the ordinary, then feed. I record the date, the weight, what they ate (or didn't), when they are blue, when they shed and any other things to note.

In some books on the topic of heating your tank (which is a must since you don't live in the tropics!), they might mention heat lamps. This is a debated subject here, but I would not waste time or money on a heat lamp, go with a UTH (under tank heater). This will cover 1/3 of the bottom of your tank, and you MUST have a thermostat to regulate it, otherwise the UTH can reach temps that can harm your snake. Along with the UTH and thermostat you need a probe thermometer or infrared thermometer.

Corns use belly heat to help digestion, so a UTH with a thermostat is recommended over the lamp. It also costs less in the long run and is easier to maintain temps. It will help keep your humidity levels up too, since the lights tend to dry the viv out. You want to set the thermostat to about 87° so the top of the substrate on the warm side is 85° and the cool side (where you would keep the waterbowl) is around 75°.

I truly hope that this helps, and DO NOT be afraid to ask any questions. No stupid questions, only stupid owners who don't care enough to as the question. Also, the "search" button is awesome, it will lead you to links of questions already asked and you might find more information there as well.

Also, with a lot of the same info, one of the most knowledgeable members here has posted a care sheet as well in her section near the bottom of the main page. Nanci's Info Sheet
 
Also, because he is so hot in the viv, this causes striking and biting as he gets irritable in the heat. This makes the thermostat even more necessary.

As for feeding, wait a week from the last time you held him, hopefully the temps will be in check and you can feed then. You don't want a regurgitated meal because he was so uncomfortable and frightened, so wait. Corns can go a long time between feedings, so no worries that he will starve.

Your corn is not like most pets, and hiding is a common activity. If I don't hold my corns daily, I at least try to get a visual on them so I know they are there.

Now, after all that, we want pictures when he is settled!
 
Update lol
I received the thermostat today(wow amazon is fast)
Have it set to 87 and working great,mid section at 74.2'cool side at 74.that is without a lamp on.
That is with my air conditioning in the home off.I think the air cond. being on was the cause of my low temps.but with the ac on and the lamp on I get 75 on the cool side.without the lamp mid 60's
Any suggestions as keeping the ac off in the house is not an option for my wife?
 
I'd just let the temperature do whatever on the cold side. Give the snake a hide in the middle as well as the cold side and over the heat mat, and the snake will pick where it wants to be.
 
Agree, I'd just leave the cool side alone. Now that you have cool to warm gradient, the snakey can go where it wants when it wants and needs. Also, agree to make sure there's enough hides around the place so it will feel secure enough to go where it wants when it wants and needs.
 
Thanks everyone for the info.
All temps are now where they should be and she looks way less stressed.i even saw her roaming around last night when the lights were off.
Tried feeding her today but wouldn't have anything to do with it.just kept trying to escape the feeder box!
 
Agreed with everyone, once the warm side is 85-87° the snake will choose where he wants to be, regardless of what the cool side is. 75° is ideal for the cool side, but he can just move closer to the warm side.

Since he is a baby, I take toilet paper tubes and smash one end almost flat and push that end down at a slight angle into the substrate. Make 3-4 of these and put them all over the viv, he will choose his own "cave"!
 
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