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planning on getting my first corn

T

TeBo

New member
Ok, I've been thinking about how much I want to get a snake, and thought the cornsnake would be my best choice.

I used to own a pair of garter snakes (they've since past.), and want to get back into snakes again, just something a lil' bigger.

I don't plan on buying the snake just yet. I want to build up a habitat first. I was wondering if anyone could help me w/ a list of what I'll need (terrarium, bedding, heating products, etc.). . . I want to buy everything I need to get first b4 purchasing my new pet. I've looked at FAQ's and all, but all they give me is how to take care of it and all, and the tank specifics. not the actual everything I need type deal. I plan on just having one as a pet, and not planning on breeding.

Now I used to feed my garters fish. Corns I know take mice, but my question is, I hear people thawing them to about 100 deg. . . By what method do you guys use?

I've noticed a few things on threads lookin' at snakes. What does the numbers mean (ie 1.0, 1.1, etc.)? also, what are holdbacks?

Also anyone from the San Diego, CA area? know of any good places to pick up a cornsnake and buy supplies at?

I'm sorry for all the questions, I just need to know everything I'm getting into before actually deciding on taking a snake under my wing. thanks a bunch
 
Welcome to the forum!
Here is a basic list of what you'll need for a hatchling
10 gallon aquarium
2 hideboxes
under tank heater
water bowl
2 thermometers
and substrate I use aspen.

The pinkies don't need to be thawed to a hundred degrees,I just stick them in a sandwich baggie then let them soak in warm water.
The numbers mean male.female.unknown (i.e. 2.3.4)
2 males 3 females and 4 unknown genders.
Hope I helped.
 
much help thanks ! Not as much things as I thought I'd need (thinking something to keep the area humid, etc. etc. etc.). Another thing that was of concern that I forgot to mention was biting snakes. I would like to get a tame snake for sure, but if a snake bites, is there anything I'd need to do besides taking them off me? I was just wondering if people could get sick from a snakebite (like my mom told me salmonela could be had from a snakebite. . But my mom also believes it's bad luck to have a snake in the house. But I love her, and she lives w/ me now. So she can't say anything.). . . lol.. anyways, I was just wonderin' how aggressive corns could be (hence why I want to be at the place of purchase to handle the snake and see, as opposed to buying online, although I'd trust breeders on forums more than pet stores.)
 
TeBo said:
much help thanks ! Not as much things as I thought I'd need (thinking something to keep the area humid, etc. etc. etc.). Another thing that was of concern that I forgot to mention was biting snakes. I would like to get a tame snake for sure, but if a snake bites, is there anything I'd need to do besides taking them off me? I was just wondering if people could get sick from a snakebite (like my mom told me salmonela could be had from a snakebite. . But my mom also believes it's bad luck to have a snake in the house. But I love her, and she lives w/ me now. So she can't say anything.). . . lol.. anyways, I was just wonderin' how aggressive corns could be (hence why I want to be at the place of purchase to handle the snake and see, as opposed to buying online, although I'd trust breeders on forums more than pet stores.)
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The basics were covered pretty well before in the previous post.

A 10 gallon tank should comfortable house a corn for 2-3 years, depending on how fast and big it grows. Some corns will get 5-6 feet when fully grown, others will be little runts and only be 3 feet or so.

I'd suggest a Critter Cage, it's made by All-Glass aquariums and it has a locking screen top lid. They've available in Petco and Petsmart---I'd assume you have those out there. 90% of adult corns can live in a 20 long for their entire life, so you could buy that to start off with and close off half until the snake grows up a bit, or just add more hides and start it off in there.

You're in San Diego---what are the temps like during the whole year? I'm in northern Florida and I dont use any type of heat unless I have A) The window open that's next to the rack, and B) I start warming them up 12 hours or so before feeding, and leave the light on during the evening for about 2 days, just to aid digestion, and then the light is turned off till before the next feeding.

You might not need a UTH during the summer, as I'm assuming it's pretty hot. When the summer rolls around here, it's hot as hell--things dont move after like 10am, and I dont use any heat since my room never goes below 75. Corns are obviously North American colubrids and dont require high temps, nor high moisture.

Aspen is the best bedding you can use. You can use paper towels, newspaper, reptibark, etc etc. Dont use astroturf, pine, or cedar.

Hatchling corns are flighty at times, but arent usually agressive. As long as a hatchling is handled regulary you shouldn't have any problems. Corns for the most part are quite calm. My 2003 amel is a sweetheart, she's never once been agressive and I can sit there and poke at her face---never once gotten a response.

As far as feeding goes, you'll find a debate. I feed live and freshly killed, but I also have mouse colonies going and have 8 corns and 2 ball pythons to feed. You can feed corns live pinkies and fuzzies without risking any injury to your snake, but mice really should be pre-killed when you start feeding hoppers, weanlings and adults as they can bite and injure your snake.

I've never heard of anyone getting salmonella from a snakebite. It is true that reptiles can carry it, but I dont think that relates to being bit.

I'd reccomend buying from a breeder. You are much better off this way. In fact, now would be a good time to buy. You wouldn't be getting anything that is that young--most should be at least 4-5 months old and well established---you'd run less of a chance of something going wrong.

I dont know about any breeders in CA other than Joe Pierce, but he's in Alturas, which is way up there by Oregon and such. I'd think that somewhere around you they have reptile expos, so that wouldn't be a bad place to look at all. It gives you the chance to buy from a breeder, but also handle the snake instead of just being shipped one.

Honestly, try not to buy from a Petstore. Most dont know how to properly care for a reptile and usually house many many in one small tank, risking the chance of passing diseases and parasites back and forth---not a good thing.

Welcome to the forums and if you've got anymore questions feel free to ask.
 
I was going to reply but Joe has everything covered.

Welcome to the forum, and remember no question is to small or stupid, we are all here to learn :wavey: .
 
oldhand said:
I was going to reply but Joe has everything covered.

Welcome to the forum, and remember no question is to small or stupid, we are all here to learn :wavey: .
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If we weren’t aloud to ask stupid questions I would have been booted of month’s age...

Welcome had I hope you enjoy our forum :cheers:

I also wanted to ask a question. I have my corn in a 20 gallon enclosure and I heard this will house her whole life. Is this correct??
 
ditto on the last two posts, and welcome to the forum!
[Edit: Mangrove beat me to the post, so this refers to the 2 before his]

Oh yeah, and I didn't notice anyone mentioning this, but a holdbacks are snakes that the breeder has saved (not sold) from their breeding projects. I believe they are generally kept because the breeder believes they are of higher quality or perhaps show characterists that they would like to incorporate into their future breeding projects. However, I guess you can't keep them all, because you occasionally see them being sold. Hope that was accurate (correct me if I'm wrong, guys) and that it helped. Again, welcome!
 
KatieL said:
ditto on the last two posts, and welcome to the forum!
[Edit: Mangrove beat me to the post, so this refers to the 2 before his]

Oh yeah, and I didn't notice anyone mentioning this, but a holdbacks are snakes that the breeder has saved (not sold) from their breeding projects. I believe they are generally kept because the breeder believes they are of higher quality or perhaps show characterists that they would like to incorporate into their future breeding projects. However, I guess you can't keep them all, because you occasionally see them being sold. Hope that was accurate (correct me if I'm wrong, guys) and that it helped. Again, welcome!
Click to expand...

That about covers it. Sometimes the hold backs are average looking but were intended for future breeders but something else comes around and the plans change. As Katie said though, they are usually good to exceptional.
 
No offence was ment to anyone, just that we are all here to help each other, and learn in the process.

Thanks KatieL, i didn't know what a holdback was eather :cheers: .
 
you're very welcome, happy to help when I can!

Lots of great advice on this thread!
 
Might I suggest The Cornsnake Manual, by Cathy Love. It's a valuable tool, and not expensive.
 
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