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Question about feeding

CornFan29

New member
Ok so its not so much a feeding problem but when I have had corns in the padt I have always fed then in their vivs... However now that I know better I will be feeding Medusa in a plasic container. The question is how long should I wait to put her back in her viv after feeding I dont want to put her back too soon and stress or get a regurge... Also Im thinking about giving her two pinkies. Being her first week in her new home should I stick with just one? Also I want to wait until the bulge in no loger visa le before offering a second right? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure im doing things right I dont want to cause my new scale baby any harm.
 
Some peole wait 15 minutes and some wait two hours.. I have heard different answers. One woman I talked to waited 30 minutes to an hour after because she did not like getting bit because her snake was still in feeding mode. I am new to corns but I don't think moving from the bin to the viv will cause regurge even if u don't wait long.
 
I don't know the answer to your first question, about how long to wait before replacing in her tank... but I typically give Sydney a few minutes to relax after eating before I move her.

If it's your first week with your snake, breeders say to feed just a small meal (so just one pinky in your case), to make sure the snake isn't too stressed and won't regurgitate.
How old is Medusa?

Also, if you plan on feeding two mice (after this first week), and Medusa is big enough for that, you would not see the bulge disappear; that can take 1-3 days (I have heard). It takes Sydney about 2 days before I see her bulge completely gone. What I have done is wait for Sydney to finish the first mouse and be moving around before I introduce the second - sort of seeing if she's "looking" for another mouse to eat, you know?

Hope that helps a bit! Good luck :)
 
Thank both! Medusa by my best guess maybe 7-8 months old the and got her as a hatchlingpet shop said they had her 6 months... so im not entirely sure how long the breeder held onto the clutch before taking them into the shop. Im going to get her weightand hopefully some better pictures tomorrow before feeding her :) So I will be giving her 1 pinky this week and will go from there thank you again
 
For the first meal in a new home, I always feed small.
As far as normal meal size, at 7-8 months old, one of my problem feeders was at 2 pinkies per feeding. (He was 25 grams at that point).
I usually up feeding to two pinks just over 16 grams, then fuzzies about 30+ grams, hoppers just over 50grams, weanlings just over 90 grams, adults once they hit 170+ grams & jumbo mice if they get over 400+ grams.

Edit to add: I always feed in their enclosures.
 
Heather what kind of substrate do you use because I just got my little one today 6weeks and I have him on paper towles but plan on using colored aspen. I want to feed outside of the enclosure to avoid cage aggresion and impaction. How do you avoid those issues?
 
I use paper towels for hatchlings. I've used aspen before & while it is easier to spot clean, I currently use papertowels.
Cage aggression is a myth, IMO.
1) babies can be defensive, because they're little & they think everything is trying to eat them.
2)when snakes realize there's food, they go into feeding mode, most of the time. Some people think that is "cage aggression"

I also keep Carpet Pythons, so even adult Cornsnakes in feeding mode do not bother me. You want to talk about a strong feeding response, try feeding adult Carpet Pythons. LOL

I have used the little 4-6-ish ounce single serving ice cream containers for hides for babies before, & when I used aspen, I put the pinky in the container & they would go into the container to get their pinky.
I've seen some people use paper plates to feed on as well.
 
No problem!
I want to add that with this topic, among many others in keeping reptiles, many times there is no ONE right way to do things.
Research, & find what works best for you!
Feeding inside the enclosure vs feeding outside the enclosure, for example. Neither is ultimately "the right way". Both can work. You have to figure out what works best for you.
I prefer to feed inside the enclosure.

That said, there are some important things to remember, like whenever using a heat source, you do need some form of heat regulation. I prefer thermostats, but rheostats can work as well.
 
That's why I just wanted to know your opinion. I belive almost everytthing can be done properly in more then one way. I just enjoy hearing opinions and learnig new things I joined this site almost a month before I brought my snake home. The only things I feel are right and wrong are like you said and co-habbitation. Thatis still just my opinion.. but what do I know I've had a corn for less then 24hours and only watched/fed my cousins bp when he was out of town a few times.
 
Yeah i was more worried about her ingesting some of the aspen chips in the viv. my uth is hooked up the a hydrofarm thermmostat and it seems to be working great so far.
 
That's why I just wanted to know your opinion. I belive almost everytthing can be done properly in more then one way. I just enjoy hearing opinions and learnig new things I joined this site almost a month before I brought my snake home. The only things I feel are right and wrong are like you said and co-habbitation. Thatis still just my opinion.. but what do I know I've had a corn for less then 24hours and only watched/fed my cousins bp when he was out of town a few times.
You're going to do just fine. :) Kudos to you for researching before getting your animal(s)!

I believe that cohabbing can be done, successfully & safely, as I know experienced breeders who do it, with various reptiles. That said, I do not recommend it for people fairly new keepers, because they do not know what signs to watch for.
IMO, if someone has to ask if cohoabbing is ok, then they do not have enough experince to do so. Also *most* people with enough experience chose not to do it, because of the risks.
I do not cohab, outside of breeding season, & it's not full time.
 
I can agree with that heather. I guess I am just so paranoid I could never do it and I don't think most owners should risk it but I can understand a breeder who knows what they are doing but no one can be around 24/7 you know it would just scare me.
Cornfan29- I agree with you like I mentioned above I am real paranoid and could never feed in a viv with substrate. I will be feeding in the viv tomorrow because I have a new 6 week old that hasn't eaten in almost a week. Sorry for kind of hijackin your thread.
 
Not a problem New we are both here to learn a much as we can about our new kids so I'm just happy to absorb any info that I can! Congrats by the way on getting yours!
 
I don't particularly think that cage aggression is "just a myth", because my snake is cage aggressive and she is definitely not a new born. She was previously fed in her enclosure before I got her, but whose to say that this is the reason she is aggressive - one can only assume.
But like most things I find on here, it's subjective. I agree that there are more than a few "right" ways to do things. :)
 
NH- cage aggresion makes sense to me because if I was fed every meal in my room and couldn't tell time I would think everytime my door opened it was dinner time lol. I have been told regular handling can help with it though.
 
I can agree with that heather. I guess I am just so paranoid I could never do it and I don't think most owners should risk it but I can understand a breeder who knows what they are doing but no one can be around 24/7 you know it would just scare me.
Cornfan29- I agree with you like I mentioned above I am real paranoid and could never feed in a viv with substrate. I will be feeding in the viv tomorrow because I have a new 6 week old that hasn't eaten in almost a week. Sorry for kind of hijackin your thread.
How often are you trying to feed? Offering too often can stress them out & compound the problem. I would recommend stretching out the food offerings to 7 days. Babies that are eating regularly, can be fed every 5-6 days, but if they're being picky, stretching out the food offerings reduces stress & gives them time to be hungry.

I don't particularly think that cage aggression is "just a myth", because my snake is cage aggressive and she is definitely not a new born. She was previously fed in her enclosure before I got her, but whose to say that this is the reason she is aggressive - one can only assume.
But like most things I find on here, it's subjective. I agree that there are more than a few "right" ways to do things. :)
Maybe myth was the wrong word to use.
My point is, I do not believe that feeding in the enclosure causes them to be aggressive.
Personality does also play a part, each snake is individual, but they won't become aggressive because you feed in their cage.

NH- cage aggresion makes sense to me because if I was fed every meal in my room and couldn't tell time I would think everytime my door opened it was dinner time lol. I have been told regular handling can help with it though.
That's not aggression, that is a feeding response. That is a learned behavior, that when you open the cage, they're going to get fed, so they expect it & react accordingly.

I hook train my Carpet Pythons, so they know that they are not getting food at that time.
Regular handling can/does often help with them becoming accustomed to being handled.
 
Oh heather no I just got my little one yesterday the breeder I got them from said it had been almost a week since he fed them.
 
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