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Specific Heating Questions

snakessss

New member
As of now, I have a 10 Gallon tank with sliding/locking lid.

Recently I was reading alot on heating and realized that my heat mat was probably too hot. In addition to my heat mat, I have a repti-glo black-lite that seems to warm the ambient temp a little, but doesn't do too much to the substrate. My predicament is this.

First of all, after I make this post i am going to order a digital thermometer with two probes. The one I am getting is below.

Digital Thermometer With Dual Probes

That solves my first problem, which is getting accurate readings of the temps so i can see what I need to do to lower the temps. No more crappy stick on ambient temp therms.

My second problem is getting the temps to a good range. I cant be too sure what the temps are now, but I'm estimating their somewhere in the vicinity of 95 on the hot end and 75 on the cool end. As for the cool end, i would like it to stay just where it is. For the hot end, i would like to lower it to around 87 degrees.

In an attempt to do this, I took a heating pad and mounted it on a ceramic tile. I elevated my cage, and slid the tile with heating pad under the tank, pad side up. It does not touch the glass, but it is very close. I am hoping this seperation will lower the temperature slightly.

As I was doing this, I remembered I still have a heating pad (not plugged in) stuck to the underside of my tank. Unfortunately, I believe the heat is going from the tile w/ pad to the attached pad, and still providing direct heat on the glass.

My problem is this. I would love to remove the heating pad stuck to the glass to test out the heating pad w/ tile, but if i do that, it would mean wasting yet another pad. As it stands, I have gone through 3 20$ heating pads.

The reason i dont want to remove the stuck heating pad, is because if the elevation doesnt work, I may be forced to buy a thermostat, which I would use with the attached heating pad.

So here is what my question(s) is/are

First of all, is the thermometer suitable for my needs? I would like to start investing in some thermometers that actually work. (unlike those shi**y stick on ones)

Second of all, does a repti-glo purple black-lite contribute in warming the substrate, or just the ambient temp? Keep in mind it is being used with a uth in a 10 gallon tank.

Third, does mounting a uth on a ceramic tile and then sliding the tile under so the uth is not directly touching the glass provide a good amount of heat? Because as it is, directly mounted to the glass provides too much. Has anyone been able to keep a stable 83-87 (acceptable warm zone temp) using the method I described?

Fourth, is using the black-lite in conjunction with the uth overheating my cage? My room temp is around 70, and the black-lite helps raise the cool end temp a little, along with the warm end.

Fifth, is having a uth (not plugged in) under my tank above the uth on the ceramic tile just causing the heat to go from the active uth to the non active uth, which is in direct contact with the glass, defeating the purpose?

Please explain good ways to regulate a uth without using a thermostat/rheostat. In addition, please let me know about the under/over effectiveness of the blacklite for heating.

Thank you very much
 
I will probably get pounded for this but, I dont like heating pads for the reason that the only way to regulate is with a thermostat. Also snakes dont absorb as much heat through their bellies as they do through their backs. so he can move to the bottom of the tank and sit on the hot glass and burn to death. I never heard of a black light on the tank so i cannot help with that. as far as the placecment of your thermometer with probes, put directly on glass, this way you can read the most extreme temp that your snakes can come in contact with. i would suggest the hot side be 83ish and cool side 75ish. i think 87 is a little too hot. how big is your snake, you said its in a 10 gal. just making sure the viv is large enough. I suggest a heat lamp with a bulb from home depot that has the wattage of 30 or 25... i have those on my tanks now... (just had an after thought, depending on your geographical location, i am in florida, i would test your 30 watt and 35watt etc. in case you are northern) good luck and hope this helps
 
That thermometer looks perfectly fine to handle your needs. One probe can go on the cool side and the other on the warm.

Once you have the thermometer you can try turning the light off for a while and see if there is a change in temps when it is off and on.

Lots of people use UTH's attached directly to ceramic tiles with no troubles at all. I, personally, have mine mounted on a piece of picture frame glass and have no problems at all. I put the UTH side down and the picture frame glass against the glass of my viv.

My room temp is around 70 or the low 70s. I don't worry about heating the cool side at all and have never had a problem. I think even at 87 degrees you are pushing the overheating issue. 85 might be a better target temp. That way if it happens to warm up a few degrees you won't be up around 90 but still in the upper 80s where you might be okay. So I think you can get by without the light. Just use some trial and error testing to see what the temps are with and without the light. I would try to avoid doing it on feeding day just in case you discover that the temps do drop too low.

I don't know if an inactive UTH would absorb heat like you think it might be. I'm not sure they act that way. Regardless, once you have your thermometer and can monitor temps you will know if you are getting enough heat.

With the exception of using tiles/glass attached to the UTH and keeping the viv slightly elevated above the UTH, I don't, personally, know of other ways to regulate without a thermostat or rheostat.
Is there a reason you can't or don't want to use one?

About the inactive UTH, I have read before that some people have had lots of luck carefully peeling off UTH's that have been stuck to a surface. Just try not to tug or be too forceful and it may come off. Maybe I'm misunderstanding how they are being destroyed by removal. :shrugs:

Hope this helps somewhat. Let me know if I missed something. Good luck!
 
SnakeLuvrs said:
Also snakes dont absorb as much heat through their bellies as they do through their backs.

Umm...not to "pound" you...but in all my reading, this is the first time I have ever seen this suggested. I'm no expert, but since I've been around here I have never read anything like this. I have always read that belly heat is best. :shrugs:
Don't snakes seek out warm basking spots like rocks specifically for the heat they can absorb through their bellies? :shrugs:

SnakeLuvrs said:
so he can move to the bottom of the tank and sit on the hot glass and burn to death.

If you leave a UTH completely unregulated then you are asking for something like this. That is why one has to be responsible about controlling the situation to make sure that this doesn't happen.

Like I said, I'm not trying to be mean. I just want to make sure people get both sides of the story. UTH's aren't bad, in fact they're great, if you use them correctly.
 
Your saying you have two uth?? Ok. With the one stuck to the underside of your Viv, could you place a tile...in the Viv... above the uth.. to help distribute the heat that might help until you get a thermostat or something.
Just a thought.
 
An additional note. My snake cannot rest directly on the glass, as i have a piece of oaktag paper specially cut to fit the bottom of the tank. Over that i use reptile bark as a substrate. Even so, the temps are still a little high.

As for the uth problem, i meant peeling it off would cause it to not be sticky anymore. Once i get the thermometer though, I figure I may as well remove it, because from what you have said and from what I have read mounting the uth on something makes managing the heat a little easier. So the hottest part my snake can get to is resting on the oaktag against the glass. Not that much of a difference, but at least he cant be directly on the glass.

As you said, I will try to experiment once the thermometer. Until then, I have been keeping a close watch on my snake, and lucky he has been spending most of his time on the cool side.

Im hoping by doing this and adjusting the height of the uth will help me reach manageable temps.

As for some background info, my corn is about 3 months old. I have read that younger snakes like temps a bit higher. But i think if i can get the warm end to around 85 that will be good. As for the cool end, you said right around 70-73 is okay? If that is so, I think im in luck.

Thank you for your responses. If anyone else has any suggestions, please dont hesitate to post.
 
Lennycorn said:
Your saying you have two uth?? Ok. With the one stuck to the underside of your Viv, could you place a tile...in the Viv... above the uth.. to help distribute the heat that might help until you get a thermostat or something.
Just a thought.

No, the one uth that is stuck to the tank just sitting there, not on. The uth that is on is on a tile, under the uth that is not on. But i dont want to remove the inactive uth yet until i can solve the problem of too much heat. Do you think using a tile and a single uth will be okay? I'm hoping trial and error with elevating my tank will yield good temps on the warm side of around 85. If so i will remove the idle uth once i get the thermometer.
 
Low 70s should be okay. I don't use any heat for my cool sides. The snake always has the option of going to the warm side. My yearling snow that is in a 20gal viv often stays on the cool side even right after she eats with no problems. I try to keep the cool temps at least around 72 or higher. Most of the time with my apartment kept at 72 degrees at the warmest my cool sides never dip much below 74 unless it is really cold and windy outdoors.

Younger snakes do sometimes do better with warmer temps for digestion. However, if you aren't having regurge problems with temps in the low to mid 80s you should be fine. If you do ever notice a problem you can always bump things up a couple of degrees. I, personally, have never had problems at temps around 82-85.
 
snakessss said:
Do you think using a tile and a single uth will be okay?

I'm not Lenny, but a single UTH should be more than enough. I use the same UTH for my 20gal that I used on my 10gal and it would still be way too hot if I didn't have it on a rheostat.

Are you not able to use a rheostat or thermostat for your UTH?
They eliminate a lot of the hassle and worry.
 
I could, but they are very expensive. Actually, now that i have the thermometer and single uth, a rheostat may not be that much extra. Im not too sure though. However, i would like to see what i can do with what i have at the moment. I just ordered that thermometer, and luckily, shipping to CT is 1-2 days! They must be close :)

Anyway, thank you for the help. If anyone has any other suggestions, specifically on using a uth and mounting it on a tile, etc, please dont hesitate to post.
 
Actually, a rheostat can be made for less than $7. There is a thread on here if you search for 'rheostat'. Or purchased pretty cheap online. Some pretty reliable thermostats are in the $30 area.


Regardless, it sounds like you have the right mindset and are working to correct the situation to make everthing as perfect as possible. Good luck!

P.S. - I think there have been threads in the past about attaching UTHs to tiles.

:)
 
zwyatt said:
Actually, a rheostat can be made for less than $7.

P.S. - I think there have been threads in the past about attaching UTHs to tiles.

:)


I will do some searching. In the meantime, thank you very much for your help. If anyone else has any suggestions, please dont hesitate to post. :)
 
Did you say there was a thread on this site for making a homemade rheostat? Or just threads on using a uth with a tile?
 
snakessss said:
Did you say there was a thread on this site for making a homemade rheostat? Or just threads on using a uth with a tile?

Both :)

Rheostat

Ceramic Tiles

If you do a search for ceramic tile, page two looks like it has a lot of threads relating to what you are wondering. I'm not sure if anybody goes so far as to specifically show how they do it. I believe several people (in different threads) have stated how they have theirs arranged.
 
zwyatt said:
Umm...not to "pound" you...but in all my reading, this is the first time I have ever seen this suggested. I'm no expert, but since I've been around here I have never read anything like this. I have always read that belly heat is best. :shrugs:
Don't snakes seek out warm basking spots like rocks specifically for the heat they can absorb through their bellies? :shrugs:



If you leave a UTH completely unregulated then you are asking for something like this. That is why one has to be responsible about controlling the situation to make sure that this doesn't happen.

Like I said, I'm not trying to be mean. I just want to make sure people get both sides of the story. UTH's aren't bad, in fact they're great, if you use them correctly.


one of my good friends is a vet and has seen many snakes die from this. also working in a reptile store a few years back, i have had people come in with cooked snakes and ask us why. I am not saying you are mean, you are actually quite nice. but in reference to the snake going directly on the glass and burning i was referring to an uncontrolled temp..ie no thermometer or thermostat, or rheostat...but thank you for clarifying.... your right, if you regulate the temps, that cant happen. But when temps climb and no one pays attention it happens....granted i dont think i have ever heard of a corn burning to death i think it was all desert snakes.. not sure what kind, long time ago... although i do remember the crispy snakes...(exageration)

hope all works out as far as heating goes... good luck..
 
Is it alright to have a piece of oaktag between the bottom glass and the substrate in order to prevent my snake from burning himself?
 
As far as removing the heat pad, I removed one that had been stuck on for about a month with no problem. It was even still sticky and stuck to a tile just fine. I have the Uth on the tile, with the tile being in between the uth and viv. I use a lamp dimmer to regulate the temp, it is a cheap alternative to rheostat or thermostat. If you are near a Home Depot or Lowes you should be able to get one for $10-$11. The only problem with these is you have to monitor them alot because they will fluctate if your room temp does. I am just using this until I can aford a couple of thermostats.

Lamp dimmer switch
 
I had the same problem a while back with it been too hot. All ive done is to leave a 2" gap between the uth and the tank. I leave my uth on 24/7 during the day its 84-86, and at night it only drops by a couple of degrees. :)
 
1_and_only said:
I had the same problem a while back with it been too hot. All ive done is to leave a 2" gap between the uth and the tank. I leave my uth on 24/7 during the day its 84-86, and at night it only drops by a couple of degrees. :)

That is exactly what im looking for. Why does the temp drop at night? Does your room temp drop at night?

And what do you mount your uth on? and do you have the uth facing up or the tile up?
 
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