-
Hello!
Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.
Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....
Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.
Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.
striking
- Thread starter beardie
- Start date
Forgive me if I'm wrong but it seems that you don't handle your snake very much. Daily handling (except after feeding) will get him used to you and he will calm down. Another reason for frequent handling is that this is vital exercise for the snake, particularly if you feed F/T or pre-killed food. Handling exercises the muscles they would normally use to constrict live prey before feeding. That said some snakes can be fiesty and will strike out from time to time. Don't let this put you off though, a bite from a corn won't hurt and probably won't even draw blood.
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Just one of those things.....
Striking is a survival instinct and doesn't necessarily have anything to do with handling. Most hatchlings and even some sub-adults strike because they feel threatened or have a less than pleasant personality.
IMO, handling hatchlings is more streeful than helpful. As a habit, I don't even bother handling hatchlings until they are between 6-8 month old. I have never experienced a negative reaction once they are older.
Striking is a survival instinct and doesn't necessarily have anything to do with handling. Most hatchlings and even some sub-adults strike because they feel threatened or have a less than pleasant personality.
IMO, handling hatchlings is more streeful than helpful. As a habit, I don't even bother handling hatchlings until they are between 6-8 month old. I have never experienced a negative reaction once they are older.
MegF.
That's for sale???
Do you feed your snake in his viv? I feed mine in a separate container on a herp's advice, to keep them from associating my hand with food. Mine certainly knows the feeding box, and can be very aggressive after feeding. She knows the hand brings the food. She calms down pretty quickly though, once she figures out there is no more.
Alex,
I handle my snake as you suggest, every day for about 15 minutes. I have had him for just under a year. He was about 6 months old when I bought him and was recommended by a reputable dealer that handling is important for exercise and taming their natural instincts to defend themselves. (As Beardie did not mention the age of his snake I assumed it was an older specimen and recommended what I'd been told). In handling Ozzy daily he has calmed down an enormous amount and hasn't struck out at me for months.
Not having had a hatchling I can't comment on handling when they are that young.
Picking up on something I mentioned previously. I read on other threads that you can tease the snake into constricting F/T food. I have tried in the past to do this but Ozzy shows no sign of coiling - he just grabs and swallows. I would like to try and get him to constrict - Is there a technique I can try?
I handle my snake as you suggest, every day for about 15 minutes. I have had him for just under a year. He was about 6 months old when I bought him and was recommended by a reputable dealer that handling is important for exercise and taming their natural instincts to defend themselves. (As Beardie did not mention the age of his snake I assumed it was an older specimen and recommended what I'd been told). In handling Ozzy daily he has calmed down an enormous amount and hasn't struck out at me for months.
Not having had a hatchling I can't comment on handling when they are that young.
Picking up on something I mentioned previously. I read on other threads that you can tease the snake into constricting F/T food. I have tried in the past to do this but Ozzy shows no sign of coiling - he just grabs and swallows. I would like to try and get him to constrict - Is there a technique I can try?
Rachel
Vet nurse in training!
You can't get him to contsrict if he knows he doesn't have to bother. Some snakes are laid back and it's like ho hum another dead mouse, ok here goes. they know they don't have to spend any energy constricting something that's already dead. If he doesn't react to tease feeding then I guess the instinct isn't as strong in him as it is in some other snakes. I have one which will literally leap out it's box when it catches a whiff of mice and another which I can hold the mouse right til the tail goes down.
rachel132002
New member
You want strike issues? Try the 3ft boa i just got woooo she's a one! You have to love em though, once you get round it you're good to go!
Rach
Rach
tyretosmom
New member
constricting live pinkies
When I feed my sunglow the other day it was our first feeding. He had been feed live so I decided to go with what he had before as to not make it to different. Well he didn't even constrict the live pinkie he just grabed it by the snout and downed it! Im surly going to switch to f/t or pre-killed.
When I feed my sunglow the other day it was our first feeding. He had been feed live so I decided to go with what he had before as to not make it to different. Well he didn't even constrict the live pinkie he just grabed it by the snout and downed it! Im surly going to switch to f/t or pre-killed.
tyretosmom
New member
It was kinda funny my amel corn constricted and my sunglow did not. I could really tell the one that constricted because she seemed very tierd. while my sunglow just kinda roamed around for a while.