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sweet heart- now a hateling?

shellby22

New member
Ok, so I have had my corn for about 6 weeks or so now and it started out very sweet. I handled it regularly (with exception to 1-2 days after feeding) However in the last week or two EVERY time I have gone to take it out it has either booked it to its cave or tried to bite me. I have never dropped it, i know better than to squeeze it, it gets fed in a seperate tank, temps and humidity levels are constant, and it doesnt appear to be in the blue. Any clues on what might be changing my little grouches behavior?
 
First thing when this happens, is it in blue, getting ready to shed? You say she's not, but has she shed for you yet? They tend to get very defensive when in shed.

My best guess.
 
I don't think it is...it's eyes are nice and clear and it doesnt have that tight look to it. Although, I am more accustomed to lizards as this is my first snake. I could be wrong. And no, checkers has not shed for me yet, and I wasnt sure when to expect a shed either. I got minimal information on this snake as the breeder had intended to cull the poor thing and 12 others for not being "perfect" so to speak. IMO they are all perfect!
 
my guess would be he's about to shed. My dude doesn't get mean when in shed but you can tell by looking at him he's miserable. I've managed to know when shed is coming and how long it takes.

Or his temps may be out of whack. What's his warm and cool side tems.?
 
Depending on the morph, it can be difficult to tell when they are in blue. If you've been feeding him regularly for 6 weeks, then he should be due for a shed. I'd leave him alone, make sure the temps and humidity are right, give him a water bowl big enough for him to curl up in, in case he wants to do that. Make sure you don't put so much water in it that when he is in, the water runs over. Also, I'd skip feeding him for a week or two as you don't know if he eat when in blue and then regurg, which is stressful for you and him.
 
I can never tell when Kiyo is going to shed as she is a snow stripe and unless I happen to notice that her eyes are cloudy, I can't tell...I've handled her while she was in blue before and she is as sweet as ever....Omnom on the other hand, I think I've determined that when he is in blue, he becomes a little hateling also. He is more bitey and tries to get away. I have come to this conclusion as he is a problem shedder (have had to assist him 3 times so far). When he can't see, he does the above...after he gets the shed started past his eyes (thus he can see again), he mellows out and lets me help him.
 
Unfortunately until I can get a larger uth, the temps are a little low, but we have had no problems with regurgitation. The cool side is 72° F and the warm side is 77.5° F with an ambient temp of 70°F. Humidity levels are anywhere between 45 and 70%........ we will be moving in about a month though too and the new house has a much better heating system.
 
From my experience, sometimes they go through phases. Some days they just don't want to be touched. As long as it's healthy and the temps aren't way off I wouldn't fret it. It should pass soon. ( That is if it's not because of shedding, mine don't usually get grumpy until after they undress, then they are all mouth and tummy, hungry and grumpy. But that's just mine.)
 
Unfortunately until I can get a larger uth, the temps are a little low, but we have had no problems with regurgitation. The cool side is 72° F and the warm side is 77.5° F with an ambient temp of 70°F. Humidity levels are anywhere between 45 and 70%........ we will be moving in about a month though too and the new house has a much better heating system.
Theoretically, a bigger UTH won't be hotter - it will just heat a larger floor area to the same temp.

Are you taking the temperature on the floor surface above the UTH with a digital thermometer? If you're measuring the air temp part way up a wall, or using a cardboard strip or plastic dial thermometer, then they can be 20+ degrees wrong either way. The air temp will also be much cooler than the snake is experiencing on the floor surface that they're in contact with. By your readings, the floor surface on the warm side is around 10 degrees too low.

A Corn suddenly getting ansty and snappy is sometimes due to overheating. If they're too cool, then they tend to be more lethargic and inactive, not really reacting to being picked up or handled.

Having said that, an imminent shed is a real possibility as well.
 
I don't think it is...it's eyes are nice and clear and it doesnt have that tight look to it. Although, I am more accustomed to lizards as this is my first snake. I could be wrong. And no, checkers has not shed for me yet, and I wasnt sure when to expect a shed either. I got minimal information on this snake as the breeder had intended to cull the poor thing and 12 others for not being "perfect" so to speak. IMO they are all perfect!

You could have missed the cloudy/blue phase. Snakes tend to look dull and "ugly" around shedding time.

Unfortunately until I can get a larger uth, the temps are a little low, but we have had no problems with regurgitation. The cool side is 72° F and the warm side is 77.5° F with an ambient temp of 70°F. Humidity levels are anywhere between 45 and 70%........ we will be moving in about a month though too and the new house has a much better heating system.

What are you using as a UTH? The hot spot should really reach 85-90. The ambient temp is ok, I keep mine at 80 degrees and they are all quite active.

Checkers, is it? Have you got photos? :)
-Skully-
 
I believe it is a zoo med uth for a 20 gal tank. It was all they had left at the pet shop when we went to get the substrate. We have checkers in a 40 gal tank. (I know it large for a hatchling, but we didnt want to keep buying a new tank everytime it needed an upgrade) It has lots of places to hide and feel safe though. Yes, my son dubbed it checkers. :) I have pictures in my "album", but haven't figured out how to post pictures via threads yet. Also...Checkers is REALLY hard to get good pictures of. LOL! My son jokingly said we should have named it "Tricky". Maybe for the next snake, eh?
 
A 20g ZooMed UTH is capable of reaching 85-90 an without a thermostat they can hit well over 100 degrees easily. You don't necessarily need a bigger UTH.

However, a 40g for a hatchling is quite too big and stressful. They can be housed in a 10g then up to a 20g for a little while. A 10g with screen lid from Walmart is no more than $20. Owning a pet requires your commitment in being able to provide the best, even if you don't feel like it.

I would suggest a smaller tank, thermostat, and thermometer before feeding again. This snake needs time to settle for about another week. Maybe this will help.

Good luck!
Yes corns are addicting when you start.
 
I went and looked at your photos. Checkers is a little one!

Might I also suggest fine aspen shavings? Some corns like to burrow rather than using their hides ;) It's also the most recommended over reptibark.
 
Is the aspen better soley on burrowing or are there other reasons? I only ask because I have seen checkers burrow in the repti bark before. Is this not good for it? Also, it wasn't that I was trying to be a neglectful owner on the tank, but I figured switching homes would be more stressful than being in a large home with lots of places to hide. We have a thermometer and a hygrometer but are having difficulty finding a thermostat. Any suggestions?
 
Oh yeah, while I have an open thread...anybody have any suggestions on where to find an inexpensive light timer? Plus opinions on brands or styles that work best would be appreciated since I will be needing two.
 
Here is a good cheap thermostat, http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTP...d=1355711703&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydro+thermostat

As far as the aspen, it's not only about the burrowing. A lot of people prefer it because it is safe for your snake. I can't detail the reasons but I use aspen for all my snakes. Reptibark in my experience leaves dust in the enclosure and seems rough. I prefer aspen, probably cheaper too. Just try not to feed on any bedding.

This type of aspen is the most commonly used. http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aspen...qid=1355711886&sr=1-3&keywords=aspen+shavings
You don't have to buy that one, try Walmart or other local stores.

Switching homes isn't as stressful as feeling like "I" can't find my way to my secure hide. That's a big tank for a hatchling and corns usually are hardy about everything. Just when moving tank size, all you do is set the tank up the exact same so there isn't much change besides size.

I'd also like to know about a light timer, haven't got one. ;)
 
One thing that I can help with! :D

lol you can get a cheap light timer at just about any Walmart.
I needed one for my planted tank light and I think i payed about 12$ for it and it works great!

I am going to be pickng up a new one for my snake once he goes into his big tank.
That way I can see the inside during the day it will shut off at 9:30pm by itself for him to omega out.. Handy little devices they are! ;)
 
Thank you guys for the help I really appreciate it. I'll probably have to wait until January to get all the stuff required but I will get it. My my family is going to florida in february and the pet sitter requires the above items anyway. She stops by our home for a few hours a day to check on, feed, bathe, water, and interact with the critters.
 
Why do you have to wait til January? A correct heating source is very important to your snakes health.

Hopefully you can get ordering very soon!

;)
 
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