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Using Sterilite/Sweater box as housing

antiochian

antiochian

New member
Hello,

I've been considering getting a pet snake for the last couple of years, and have been reading up about corn snakes online and in books. I'd really like to get a cornsnake. I have a beautiful 55 gallon aquarium in storage at my parents' place, but it would never fit in my current place. I'm therefore thinking my best bet is a clear plastic storage container like you can get in various stores. I have a couple questions about using those.

First of all, since the lid on this sort of container snaps down, are any additional clamps needed to secure it and prevent escape?

Secondly, will several (10-20) nail-sized holes in the lid provide sufficient ventilation? Do I want to poke some on the sides of the container as well?

And last of all, I read UTH's can be used with these containers, but I'm somewhat nervous about the heater melting the plastic and causing fire, as the container will be on the floor (the UTH would be in contact with carpet).

I'd appreciate your input!
 
Keeping Corns in tubs is pretty standard, so you should be fine. You might need some extra clamps on the corners or long sides. Corns are surprisingly strong and can lever up any point of weakness enough to slip through. I use gaffa tape tabs on mine but many folks use clips or clamps. If you can get hold of a make called "Really Useful Boxes", they seem to be the ones which have the most escape-proof lids.

Some airflow across the tub is a good idea to stop condensation building up at floor level. I poke three extra rows of nail holes in the ends of the tub - at the top on one end and at the bottom on the other.

UTHs always need to be used with a thermostat, as they get far too hot for Corns without them. If you keep the UTH at the ideal mid-80s, then it will never get hot enough to melt plastic or damage the carpet (human core body temp is 96 degrees). Corns need the warm end of the tank/tub to be surprisingly cool.
 
If you're worried about air flow under the sterilite, you can put little feet on the bottom of your tub...I use plastic pop bottle lids hot-glued to the bottom to raise it just slightly for better air circulation.

I have holes in the sides as well as the tops of my tubs...I was getting some condensation when I only had holes on the sides (but then, I also had a snake that loved to swim and frequently got her litter wet)
 
I keep all my corns in sterlite tubs. A soldering iron works AMAZING for poking air holes, but I assume nails would work as well. An UTH will not melt the plastic. Most of these tubs are designed to be stored in storage units, attics, etc where temps (here in Texas at least) can easily reach 140+ in these places. I do recommend a rheostat with a thermometer or better yet a thermostat if choosing this heat method. Heat tape always needs a thermostat IMO.
 
Thanks for the responses. I did a little research and apparently a 15 quart container is good for baby corns, 32-36 qt for subadults/adults. I'm going to check out the pet stores tomorrow and see what they've got.

I'm assuming these uth's can be removed and reused when the snake requires a larger container?
 
Attach the UTH to a slate tile (they can be bought at Home Depot/Home Hardware, etc for a few $'s) They usually come 1 foot x 1 foot. That way if you ever need to move enclosures you don't have to stick and unstick the UTH. You're not supposed to do that, as the flexing can ruin the wires inside and cause it to malfunction.
 
If it helps, I've never attached any of my UTHs to anything. With my one tub, it just rests loose on the floor underneath the tub. The probe of the thermostat goes inside the tub on the floor above the UTH, so it stays at the right temp for the snake.
 
If you're worried about the lid being compromised, I've found the best escape deterrents are binder clips (actually, a lot of people on here use them). If the tub is long, I do three on each longer side, and one on each end. Then again, I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to babies escaping...
 
Thanks everyone! Setting up the vivarium tonight, hope to have my snake soon. I bought a bunch of duct tape to keep the lid down, but binder clips will definitely look better and be easier to remove--appreciate that info. Are they strong enough to keep an adult snake from escaping as well? I'll refrain from peeling off the sticky side of the heater and use it as bitsy advised.

I had the joy of handling a ball python in the pet shop the other day (they were all out of corns). Would love to get a bp too, but I feel it best as a snake rookie to get my corn first--taking on two snakes at once might be a bit overwhelming. Plus I have very limited space. :)
 
I also have a BP and I have found that they can be a bit trickey in terms of feeding and getting the temps and humidity right (corns are easier), but having said that he's such a laid back character when in his viv or being handled he makes up for it... really awesome snakes!
Get your feet wet with your corn and wait for the flood gates to open...:D:cheers:
 
Everything is set up as of yesterday. Did some snake hunting but resisted making a purchase, which I'm glad of since there's a problem. Sterilite container is approx. 1' wide by 1' deep by 2.5' long. Thermometers/hydrometers in place. Reptitherm 10-20 gallon uth, plugged into thermostat (set on 90 degrees F) in place and running since yesterday. I've checked on the set up several times. From the inside, the viv floor feels very warm. But the temp on the warm side was only 74 degrees last night, with thermostat having been on 90 for several hours. Turned it up to 100 degrees to see what happens. Today the viv floor is definitely warm. Felt uth. It's very warm. Temp on viv's warm side, according to dig thermometer with probe: 77 degrees.

What's up with that?
 
Been playing around more with the thermostat and my temp gauges. It occurred to me that maybe I should place the temp gauge probe against the substrate (duh!) which turned out at 93 when my thermostat was set to 93. I turned it down to 90. According to what I'm reading on another post, ambient air temp is less important than substrate level temps. A corn would be plenty warm at ground level in this viv. Ambient air temp remains in the low 70s (room temp) which seems somewhat cool. Am I being overly paranoid or is this set up going to be work?
 
You're actually a little too warm still.

Yes, you should measure at the surface. Either the surface of the substrate, if it's not a type the snake could burrow into; or else at the surface of the floor.

(you want to be measuring at the warmest spot the snake could get to ... because they will)

That measured temp should be around 84-85 degrees F and definately stay below 90.

With my snakes, I keep the thermostat set for 87 degrees. That puts the actual surface of the tank just a tiny bit too warm, but still within OK ranges, while allowing the substrate to go up to about 82 degrees on the actual surface of the aspen. So he's got his choice of how far down to burrow into the substrate.

Air temps don't really matter to corns, so long as you stay above 60 degrees or so ambient temps.
 
I would say 90 might be a bit high for a baby, but I'm fairly new to this myself. Your snake, provided he has multiple hides, will tell you if he's too hot/cold. My girl sunny likes her hot hide in the high 80's, whereas my boy drift wouldn't go near a hide that hot. I wouldn't worry too much about ambient air temps, unless it goes to extremes. Corns are really cool, welcome to the obsession!
 
Ok, then I'll turn it down a notch. I just have to make some ventilation holes and purchase some binder clips to secure the lid and I'm ready for a snake!

Not sure just yet whether I should order a subadult or adult online and avoid the "nippy baby" experience, or just purchase a baby from the pet store--I can at least handle it before I buy it. Saw an ad for a corn on my local craigslist but I'm hesitant to go that route. Decisions, decisions! Looking forward to being a cornsnake owner. :)
 
I'd take a look in the for sale section here first! At least then you can keep in contact with the breeder and you know what your getting! If I lived in the USA I'd definately get mine from here!
 
I agree with MarieK, I would stick to a reputable breeder rather than a "big chain store", the breeder will know exactly what he/she's giving you and they tend to "take better care of their snakes" (hope I don't get crucified for saying that ;-) but thats what I tend to see).

All my snakes I've had from "nippy babies" and its really does depend on the snake how nippy they are; even if you do get nipped, it's more like a head butt than a bite and the phase doesn't last that long. I love watching them grow and keeping track of their progress, once they're adults they don't change too much. However if you do get an adult you know that they are survivors and probably are quite well sociallised, so thats a pro too. Another pro is that some morphs look completely different as babies than they do as adults so again.. you "know what you're getting" if you by adult.... (or watching the change is also really cool over time if you get baby)

Good luck and happy hunting.
 
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