Verify my setup? (New snake owner)

[LadyJemima]

I am very excited to be adopting a corn snake (3 years old) next week and am in the "research and purchase" process. I am considering the following, and wanted to run it by the members here before opening my wallet.

1. Exo Terra 36" x 18" x 12" --> Can't afford to go larger, but my research indicates this is a good basic size for an adult. Was looking into secondhand 55-gallon aquariums, but they seem not nearly as secure or flexible as an ET tank.

2. Exo Terra (or similar) "Rainforest" heating pad (size 11" x 17"), mounted under the viv. -->This will cover approximately 1/3 of the tank. I have read the "UTH vs heat lamp" debate and have chosen the heat pad.

--> QUESTION #1: this is an embarrassing question. I have read that one side of the tank should be approximately 75°, with 85° on the basking side. If the pad is heated to 85°, does the ambient air maintain the alternate side of 75°, or is a different pad/lamp needed?

--> QUESTION #2: should the heating pad be left at this temperature 24 hours per day?

--> QUESTION #3: do people ever use both pads/lamps along with heated rocks? Is a heated rock important or neccessary?

3. Rheostat or dimmer to maintain proper UTH pad temperature.

4. Two digital thermostats, mounted on either side of the tank, to check 75/85 temps.

5. About 1" deep aspen substrate.

6. Hiding spot on each side of viv.

7. Water bowl large enough for entire snake.

8. Artificial branch + plants

I'm still tackling the (seemingly confusing) issue of lighting, so let's leave that out for the moment. So....other than lighting, am I on track here?

 

[Karl_Mcknight]

Answer to Q2: The under tank heat pad only heats the bottom of the cage, directly above the pad. This is usually acceptable, as the snake does not float through the air, it lays on the bottom. The heat pad will not heat the air inside that cage or the opposite side of the cage. Be sure to use a thermostat along with the heat pad, as the heat pad by itself can hit well over 120 degrees and can actually burn the snake. The opposite side of the cage is ok at room temps, (70 to 75) and usually will not be affected by the heat pad. If you live in an unusually cold climate and the temps in your house frequently fall below 70 degrees, a 2nd heat pad set to 74 degrees on the cool side may be necessary. (I actually use 2 pads like this as it gets very cold here in the winter. During the warmer months, the 2nd pad never even kicks in.) You should provide a hiding place on both sides of the cage. On the warm side, your goal should be to have the hiding spot directly over the heat pad and set it so that the temp inside the hiding place is 85 degrees.

Q3: Never ever use a hot rock. Never ever place a lamp or bulb of any type inside the cage. Many snakes have been "Cooked" using these methods. Normal room light, (12 hours on, 12 hours off to simulate day and night) is all a corn snake needs. All lights produce heat. Some more than others. You can actually heat the cage too much, or even dry out the air by using hot lamps too close to the cage. Most of us frown on the use of hot lights. I do use a light on a timer 12 hours on, 12 hours off to help keep the snake's biorythm and metabolism in check. It produces no heat inside the cage and being on a timer, I don't have to mess with it.

Other: corn snakes like lots of clutter and hiding places. 3 or 4 is better than 2. Lots of artificial plants. If you can look into the cage and see through to the other side, your snake will probably be uncomfortable.

I prefer a hand held infrared temperature gun (point and shoot) to measure temps inside the cage. This eliminates the need for wires, probes, and dials inside the cage. It may take a day or two of messing with the temps to get them right, but once you get it set, it's usually ok. I check my temps weekly when cleaning the cage and they are always ok. Minor fluctuations are ok.

 

[LadyJemima]

If you live in an unusually cold climate and the temps in your house frequently fall below 70 degrees, a 2nd heat pad set to 74 degrees on the cool side may be necessary. (I actually use 2 pads like this as it gets very cold here in the winter.

Pennsylvania. Will probably need one for the winter. That's what prompted my question!

Never ever use a hot rock.

Noted!

Be sure to use a thermostat along with the heat pad, as the heat pad by itself can hit well over 120 degrees and can actually burn the snake.

Yes. Have read this. Hence need for rheostat and thermostat.

I prefer a hand held infrared temperature gun (point and shoot) to measure temps inside the cage.

Will research this.

Other: corn snakes like lots of clutter and hiding places. 3 or 4 is better than 2. Lots of artificial plants. If you can look into the cage and see through to the other side, your snake will probably be uncomfortable.

I did not know this!

 

[Karl_Mcknight]

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3. Rheostat or dimmer to maintain proper UTH pad temperature.

4. Two digital thermostats, mounted on either side of the tank, to check 75/85 temps.

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Don't confuse "Thermostat, Thermometer, and Rheostat." They are 3 different things.

A Rheostat will work, but they are hard to set and maintain temperature with. Many of them only have "Low, Medium or High" and some of them work like a dimmer switch. These may or may not work for you.

A Thermostat is like what you have on your Air Conditioner / Heater at home. You can actually set it to a desired temperature. They are generally better than Rheostats but also more expensive.

A Thermometer is what you measure temps with. They can be hand held or Mounted.