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when do you feed your corn?
- Thread starter Ferry
- Start date
Canadain Eh?
New member
My snake is just a baby hatchling 'bout 4 months old. I feed it once a week. In a month I feed it 2 pinkies the first week. Then 1 pinkie the rest of the week.
DEAD.
DEAD.
Skye
New member
All our corns are adults.
We only feed them frozen/thawed adult mice.
We usually follow a 5 or 6 day feeding schedule.
We usually feed them in the evenings (when they would naturally be out hunting in the wild).
How many mice they get depends on their gender, and the time of year, e.g. females fattening up after brumation for breeding get offered more.
Skye
We only feed them frozen/thawed adult mice.
We usually follow a 5 or 6 day feeding schedule.
We usually feed them in the evenings (when they would naturally be out hunting in the wild).
How many mice they get depends on their gender, and the time of year, e.g. females fattening up after brumation for breeding get offered more.
Skye
feeding
once or twice a week. only had 1month. can't remember size when I bought (came in deli cup). it's about 17+in now always eats, never rejects or regurges.
3/22 1 pinkie
3/26 1 pinkie
4/8 2 pinkies
4/13 1 sm fuzzy
4/19 3 pinkies.
The fuzzy slowed him down for 3 days solid. 1 or 2 pinkies and he's out 2 days later. only concern is no signs of shedding yet.
btw - always frozen/thawed.
once or twice a week. only had 1month. can't remember size when I bought (came in deli cup). it's about 17+in now always eats, never rejects or regurges.
3/22 1 pinkie
3/26 1 pinkie
4/8 2 pinkies
4/13 1 sm fuzzy
4/19 3 pinkies.
The fuzzy slowed him down for 3 days solid. 1 or 2 pinkies and he's out 2 days later. only concern is no signs of shedding yet.
btw - always frozen/thawed.
CowBoyWay
Cocked & Unlocked member
There is a Search feature here...
...that by using keywords, will answer ones questions many times, with some reading, without having to wait for answers to likely/ probably already been asked many times basic care question(s).
By your questions you need to be reading several care sheets NOW, before its to late for your captive.
You sound like you want to do the right thing, but first you have to know what the right thing to do is.
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHnewpage11.htm
http://www.cornsnake.net/new/care.php3
90% of health care problems in reptiles
are improper (husbandry) care related.
Also, if you would care to do a www.google.com search for "Corn Snake Care" or some variation of that theme , many basic care "sheets" should pop up for you.
If you happen to see one that says they eat crickets, that ones just plain wrong regarding that aspect of there diet. They like mice, mice, and more mice basically.
Hatchling corn snakes begin eating pinky mice, and progress up to adult mice once they are mature. Mice bought frozen and completely thawed out as needed is the safest and most convenient way to go.
A good rule of thumb, if your new to all this, is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter.
Feed an item that is too large, and the snake will often regurgitate it. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area or if they are handled too soon after they eat.
Corn snakes can be fed two times a week, but once is usually enough. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often.
Anything you don't understand, please be sure to ask after doing some
"basic 101 " care sheet reading.
Specific questions will get you specific answers many times and broad general questions will get a broad general answer, if at all.
Cornsnakes will do well in almost any container, provided it is big enough. Baby cornsnakes will do well in a 5 or 10 gallon tank. Always MAKE SURE IT IS ESCAPE-PROOF!!!
There are five basic things a new cornsnake keeper needs in the Corns "house" ;
-A secure lid
-A hide box
-A clean water dish
-Bedding
-Stable temperature
So, did you get that Corn Snake some dinner?
...that by using keywords, will answer ones questions many times, with some reading, without having to wait for answers to likely/ probably already been asked many times basic care question(s).
By your questions you need to be reading several care sheets NOW, before its to late for your captive.
You sound like you want to do the right thing, but first you have to know what the right thing to do is.
http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHnewpage11.htm
http://www.cornsnake.net/new/care.php3
90% of health care problems in reptiles
are improper (husbandry) care related.
Also, if you would care to do a www.google.com search for "Corn Snake Care" or some variation of that theme , many basic care "sheets" should pop up for you.
If you happen to see one that says they eat crickets, that ones just plain wrong regarding that aspect of there diet. They like mice, mice, and more mice basically.
Hatchling corn snakes begin eating pinky mice, and progress up to adult mice once they are mature. Mice bought frozen and completely thawed out as needed is the safest and most convenient way to go.
A good rule of thumb, if your new to all this, is to feed the snake a food item that is the same, or close to, the snake's diameter.
Feed an item that is too large, and the snake will often regurgitate it. Snakes will also regurgitate if they do not have a warm area or if they are handled too soon after they eat.
Corn snakes can be fed two times a week, but once is usually enough. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often.
Anything you don't understand, please be sure to ask after doing some
"basic 101 " care sheet reading.
Specific questions will get you specific answers many times and broad general questions will get a broad general answer, if at all.
Cornsnakes will do well in almost any container, provided it is big enough. Baby cornsnakes will do well in a 5 or 10 gallon tank. Always MAKE SURE IT IS ESCAPE-PROOF!!!
There are five basic things a new cornsnake keeper needs in the Corns "house" ;
-A secure lid
-A hide box
-A clean water dish
-Bedding
-Stable temperature
So, did you get that Corn Snake some dinner?
good advice there
my snake is about 9 months old and some 24" long.
i feed it on a 7-10 day cycle, 3 frozen/thawed pinkie mice at a time. I tend to put paper towling in the tank and place the pinkies on that to prevent the snake ingesting the substrate.
digestion takes about 3 or 4 days.
my snake is about 9 months old and some 24" long.
i feed it on a 7-10 day cycle, 3 frozen/thawed pinkie mice at a time. I tend to put paper towling in the tank and place the pinkies on that to prevent the snake ingesting the substrate.
digestion takes about 3 or 4 days.
bmm
New member
blito no offense but thinking its too big for the head has nothing to do with choosing a proper size food item.
Many people make this mistake thinking the snake can't handle it because its head couldn't possibly take it in. But thats not always true at all. Snakes don't actually unlock the jaw per say but have stretching ligaments. They are able to take prey larger than anything we would even DREAM of giving them. And even at an extreme size, you will have many that have no regurg, no health problems and digest easily. Not saying you should do this, but making a point that even if you gave it a fuzzy you would be far away from any "danger" zone.
Three pinkies normally indicates the snake is more than ready to move up, they can swallow prey items *larger* than 1.5 times the girth of their widest point. That is FAR larger than any corn head. Generally the same size as the girth, or slightly larger is fine. Normally, almost all keepers suggest moving up at two prey items.
A 24-25 inch cornsnake in good health (as long as its not having problems) can easily take a small or regular or even large size fuzzy depending on girth, not head girth, widest body point girth.
Just thought I would share this information as pinkies are garbage food and corns (all snkaes) grow EXTREMELY better when off those tiny lumps of flesh!!! *L*
bmm
Many people make this mistake thinking the snake can't handle it because its head couldn't possibly take it in. But thats not always true at all. Snakes don't actually unlock the jaw per say but have stretching ligaments. They are able to take prey larger than anything we would even DREAM of giving them. And even at an extreme size, you will have many that have no regurg, no health problems and digest easily. Not saying you should do this, but making a point that even if you gave it a fuzzy you would be far away from any "danger" zone.
Three pinkies normally indicates the snake is more than ready to move up, they can swallow prey items *larger* than 1.5 times the girth of their widest point. That is FAR larger than any corn head. Generally the same size as the girth, or slightly larger is fine. Normally, almost all keepers suggest moving up at two prey items.
A 24-25 inch cornsnake in good health (as long as its not having problems) can easily take a small or regular or even large size fuzzy depending on girth, not head girth, widest body point girth.
Just thought I would share this information as pinkies are garbage food and corns (all snkaes) grow EXTREMELY better when off those tiny lumps of flesh!!!
*L* bmm
bmm
New member
And to answer the question:
1. READ A BOOK before buying any snake.
I feed my cornsnake mice, like most people. Feeding anything other than rodents can be risky. Its not advised. Lizards are full of parasites, wild caught creatures are also filthy. Live can be dangerous. The best is frozen thawed.
I feed one prey item or two depending on what the snake is eating. And my snakes are fed when they are hungry. Sometimes, they are active enough that I feed them every 5 days, sometimes the adults go as long as 14-16 days. Adults don't need as much food.
bmm
1. READ A BOOK before buying any snake.
I feed my cornsnake mice, like most people. Feeding anything other than rodents can be risky. Its not advised. Lizards are full of parasites, wild caught creatures are also filthy. Live can be dangerous. The best is frozen thawed.
I feed one prey item or two depending on what the snake is eating. And my snakes are fed when they are hungry. Sometimes, they are active enough that I feed them every 5 days, sometimes the adults go as long as 14-16 days. Adults don't need as much food.
bmm
