• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Does this ball look in bad shape?

I deal with thousands of balls at work. Everything from normals to animals with 7(+?) Genes. I also had balls in my collection until recently. Balls are going to do best feeding on rats, plain and simple. Once they hit 2,000 grams, they will pop mice when they hit them. I never knew Balls were such aggressive feeders until I started working where I work. An adult Ball hits HARD, and we're feeding medium-large rats to our breeders. Most balls will only take live with any regularity. Most of the time this can be accomplished in a safe manner as long as you visually watch the snake grab the rat. Now if you are feeding F/T, the best thing to do after you thaw it out is to wrap it in a paper towl and roll it in your hands. It warms the rodent up and drys it off. Most Balls will take a rodent like that quicker than just a wet rat. An adult Ball simply won't do well on mice, maybe an adult male you want to keep under 1,000 grams so he'll be a productive breeder, but an adult female should be around 1,800 grams+, and feel like a big muscle. Mice aren't going to do that as easily as a rat will and your snake won't get the same nutrients. Rats are so much better for boids and pythons than mice. I strongly reccommend feeding rats.

O I agree that they do better on rats, how ever I have not been able to get mine to switch over. I never said that mice were in any way shape or form better than rats. Like I said, if any on has any other ideas im totally open to them.


This person, Mike, knows pythons. You would do well to listen to his advice and learn from him, not be snippy and alienate him.

I dont mind taking advise from him, I just did not like his un needed attitude. Nothing turns me off more then some one who is going to be rude without reason.
 
I deal with thousands of balls at work. Everything from normals to animals with 7(+?) Genes. I also had balls in my collection until recently. Balls are going to do best feeding on rats, plain and simple. Once they hit 2,000 grams, they will pop mice when they hit them. I never knew Balls were such aggressive feeders until I started working where I work. An adult Ball hits HARD, and we're feeding medium-large rats to our breeders. Most balls will only take live with any regularity. Most of the time this can be accomplished in a safe manner as long as you visually watch the snake grab the rat. Now if you are feeding F/T, the best thing to do after you thaw it out is to wrap it in a paper towl and roll it in your hands. It warms the rodent up and drys it off. Most Balls will take a rodent like that quicker than just a wet rat. An adult Ball simply won't do well on mice, maybe an adult male you want to keep under 1,000 grams so he'll be a productive breeder, but an adult female should be around 1,800 grams+, and feel like a big muscle. Mice aren't going to do that as easily as a rat will and your snake won't get the same nutrients. Rats are so much better for boids and pythons than mice. I strongly reccommend feeding rats.

PS, I will try that and see if she will take it that way, thanks. Atm both of my bps are just about 2 feet long. I dont have a scale (Think im going to go get one either today or tomorrow though) so im not sure on their weights.
 
There is a difference between "rude" and "curt." Some people don't communicate by long flowery essays when a couple short sentences will do.

Okay, we've got it, the mice feeding is just temporary. Got it!!!

You have to remember, someone else is going to come along five years from now and exhume this thread and it would be nice to have a correct, expert opinion here for anyone who wishes to partake of it.
 
Hair dryers work well also.... And the snakes associate, given time, the vibration of the hair dryer with food.. (Vibrations trigger feeding responses)
You'll notice this when you are drying your hair and the snakes are out looking.... LOL
 
I have already stated multiple times that I know I am not a good permanent home because I will not feed rats.

I had already found this ball a home that will feed rats on the first page.

It was clear already on the first page that this ball will not be permanently fed mice.

Do I need to say it again?

The only other issue I can figure out is people concerned about the balls heat and humidity. I have that figured out, and he's warm and humid now.

What else do you want from me? Would it have been better to leave this snake in the middle of crowded animal control in a 40 gallon tank that only had two very small hides and had 0% humidity? The cats were feet away from him, the dogs bark constantly, I don't think he was in a non-stressful place there.

I believe that I have done good by this snake. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
 
There is a difference between "rude" and "curt." Some people don't communicate by long flowery essays when a couple short sentences will do.Okay, we've got it, the mice feeding is just temporary. Got it!!!

You have to remember, someone else is going to come along five years from now and exhume this thread and it would be nice to have a correct, expert opinion here for anyone who wishes to partake of it.


I may have taken him wrong, that could be. It happens some times. You cant tell some ones true attitude with text only because you cant see their face and expression. How ever from the text I took it quite rudely. The "im here for the snake not you" was uncalled for, if she didnt care about the snake then she would have left it with the landlord of that complex it was left in, she wouldnt have come here and asked questions. Its comments like that, that make statements come across rudely, and there is no need for rudeness.
 
Hair dryers work well also.... And the snakes associate, given time, the vibration of the hair dryer with food.. (Vibrations trigger feeding responses)
You'll notice this when you are drying your hair and the snakes are out looking.... LOL

Are you using the hair dryer on the food item when you are giving it to the snake? I ask because the vibration would only be present when being used on the rat/mouse.
 
I have already stated multiple times that I know I am not a good permanent home because I will not feed rats.

I had already found this ball a home that will feed rats on the first page.

It was clear already on the first page that this ball will not be permanently fed mice.

Do I need to say it again?

The only other issue I can figure out is people concerned about the balls heat and humidity. I have that figured out, and he's warm and humid now.

What else do you want from me? Would it have been better to leave this snake in the middle of crowded animal control in a 40 gallon tank that only had two very small hides and had 0% humidity? The cats were feet away from him, the dogs bark constantly, I don't think he was in a non-stressful place there.

I believe that I have done good by this snake. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

O it was at animal control? I thought you picked it up directly from he landlord that found it. My mistake.
 
Are you using the hair dryer on the food item when you are giving it to the snake? I ask because the vibration would only be present when being used on the rat/mouse.
Use the hair dryer to dry the food and keep it real warm....
You'd be surprised how sensitive to vibrations snakes are.... That's the thing that alerts them to food in the first place.... They can feel a small mammal walking on solid ground..
 
I may have taken him wrong, that could be. It happens some times. You cant tell some ones true attitude with text only because you cant see their face and expression. How ever from the text I took it quite rudely. The "im here for the snake not you" was uncalled for, if she didnt care about the snake then she would have left it with the landlord of that complex it was left in, she wouldnt have come here and asked questions. Its comments like that, that make statements come across rudely, and there is no need for rudeness.
Sorry, but I am here for the snakes, and not you... Sure I will be friendly, but not false at the expense of the snake...... I didn't mean to sound rude, but I'm not going to bang my head against a wall to try and convince anyone...
My point was.... Feed mice and you are making a problem that you will find in the snakes later life... Believe me or ignore me.... I'm just handing on a bit of experience...
 
Sorry, but I am here for the snakes, and not you... Sure I will be friendly, but not false at the expense of the snake...... I didn't mean to sound rude, but I'm not going to bang my head against a wall to try and convince anyone...
My point was.... Feed mice and you are making a problem that you will find in the snakes later life... Believe me or ignore me.... I'm just handing on a bit of experience...



Like I said before, I am trying to get her off mice but cannot get her to switch. I am going to try some of the things that have been said above. Trust me I would rather get her onto rats then mice, but I will not let her starve to death either.
 
Allalaskan -

I was alerted this morning to a new source local of frozen/live rats and mice in Anchorage. I would be more than happy to pick up a few dead rats for you try on your mouse girl. A different source has different smells and might work better. I'm going to pick up some large pinks for all my sandboas, cornsnake and hognose.
 
Keep some feeder mice.... Leave their cage 'dirty' and transfer some feeder weaner rats into it..... That's one good way to make the switch....
We start all our pythons on rat pups as soon as they are able to feed...
After hatching, we let our pythons starve until they have absorbed all the egg yolk.. This can be a couple of months.. We don't panic and try them on smaller (mouse) meals to get them feeding.. Some will feed straight away, some take a few months longer...
 
Keep some feeder mice.... Leave their cage 'dirty' and transfer some feeder weaner rats into it..... That's one good way to make the switch....

You're obviously not reading the first half of this thread as Allalaskan already outlined how he did that exact thing. He left a rat in the cage with the mice over night.
 
I think he did read the first part of the thread he was just reiterating the procedure and advancing on it. One good thing for troublesome feeders is feed a small mouse and as they are in a 'feeding frenzy' feed a scented/rat.
cardboard/glass/wet towel will keep humidity in the tank but a MDF/wooden tank/rub would work better for your area... If you have bought a animal plastic rack thats a great start but the sides can create drafts through the tub increasing the risk of RI's... maybe think of making false sides etc.

Joel
 
I just had a thought. Earlier I was half way up a blast furnace and using my phone to chat, so I had to be quick. Maybe that's the reason it was curt.
Nanci will be able to see this if she looks at the ip on my posts. The last couple were off my lappy at home.
 
On a sort of unrelated note... snakewispera... my ball has been finicky eating his whole life, and I'm thinking of putting him in a smaller viv, as recommended on the ball python forum since this is the second hunger strike in 6 months.. what size tub would you recommend? I got him to start eating last time by offering ASFs, but now he turns his nose to those too.
 
Keep some feeder mice.... Leave their cage 'dirty' and transfer some feeder weaner rats into it..... That's one good way to make the switch....
We start all our pythons on rat pups as soon as they are able to feed...
After hatching, we let our pythons starve until they have absorbed all the egg yolk.. This can be a couple of months.. We don't panic and try them on smaller (mouse) meals to get them feeding.. Some will feed straight away, some take a few months longer...

So how long then would you let a 2 year old bp go before being worried about her loosing to much weight? I didnt get to run into town yesterday so I wans able to pickup a scale, Hoping to do that tonight so im unsure of her weight atm still. I fed her a mouse a few days ago, so I think I will try her back on Rats again. If need be I can take her out and take some pictures of her so they are most recent if you need to see her size. Keep in mind, she has only had about 3 meals (mice last 3 feedings) since last May because I had been trying to switch her over all summer.



Alaya, If you could find out what they are charging for Rat pups and Rat weanlings I would appreciate it. If I can find out how much they run I will figure out how many I want and I may just have you pick some up. Im down to 4 or 5 rat pups left in the freezer and will need some for the up coming months.
 
Keep them in rubs about twice the size of them coiled up.... They like security..
As for getting them feeding.. Fasting is a natural part of Bp life.. That's why Rats are needed when they are feeding.. They will stop feeding every time breeding season comes around.. That's winter.. And multiple feeding isn't the best for them....
Certain lady products, taped to the rub can help trigger a feeding response... You will need one that has multiple speeds, cover the rub so it's dark and play with the speeds..
 
Back
Top