About a week ago i went a bought a little cornsnake petsmart and got him a tank, hides, heat mat, bowl, bedding but couldn’t find a thermostat to control the heat mat. I was okay with this because i had an IR thermometer and i ministered her temps very closely, at one point she disappeared forever so i bought a new okeetee corn and got him in there, that night i saw two snakes in there and discovered a hollow branch in one of her hides she could hold herself in, so now i’ve built a wooden enclosure for the new one and decided to keep both, but he won’t come out of the hollow tree and it’s impossible to reach in. he was due to eat wednesday and didn’t come out of the tree for it, although my first snake did eat it. his eyes were blueish when i bought him and i think it’s best to just wait him out but if he doesn’t eat for a few more days should i try and get him out? I also need a thermostat i can plug two heat mats into, do those exist or will i need two thermostats?
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accidentally got 2 snakes
- Thread starter jckyeager
- Start date
Your corn is staying in the hide because he is getting ready to shed. Snakes seek protection when they are shedding and usually hide. You don't need to worry about him missing a meal. After shedding he will be hungry. You may want to increase the humidity by misting the tank a little so he can shed properly.
I am assuming you intend to separate the corns into two tanks and want one thermostat to control two heat mats or under tank heat pads. There are several thermostats that have dual output plugs. The expensive ones can handle a lot of wattage. I use an Ink Bird controller that has twp plugs. It's not expensive when ordered online. I have a more expensive Ranco that handles several rack systems. Monitor the temperatures for both heat pads.
I am assuming you intend to separate the corns into two tanks and want one thermostat to control two heat mats or under tank heat pads. There are several thermostats that have dual output plugs. The expensive ones can handle a lot of wattage. I use an Ink Bird controller that has twp plugs. It's not expensive when ordered online. I have a more expensive Ranco that handles several rack systems. Monitor the temperatures for both heat pads.
Dragonling
Doesn't do "casual"
I bet I know the exact hide you're talking about. It's rather infamous.
When he comes out, I would fill that hollow bit with hot glue or aquarium sealant. If you use the latter make sure to give it a few days to cure fully and not stink anymore.
When he comes out, I would fill that hollow bit with hot glue or aquarium sealant. If you use the latter make sure to give it a few days to cure fully and not stink anymore.
okay good, the stats with more than one outlet seem to all be designed for one input to be for cooling and the other for heating, setting both of them on 85 would work fine then?
The Ink Bird I use has outputs for heat only, but you can set a timed function if you prefer a lower temperature at night. I don't do that, I just set a temperature and both outputs are the same all day and night. It's a digital controller. Check out the Ink Bird ITC 306T. I was told about it by a friend who uses them to control heat cable for seedlings in a nursery. My corns don't like high temperatures, usually avoiding the warm side unless they have just fed. I don't have very deep substrate so set my warm side temps at 82-84.
i got the ITC-608T on my glass enclosure today and here’s my current temps: thermostat fluctuates between 84 and 89 degrees with the probe directly on the heat mat under 1-2” of aspen, actual readings with my IR gun have the substrate at 80 degrees directly above the heat mat(that’s when the mats at it’s hottest) down to 75 on the cool side. does everything sound okay or should i do more adjusting. both snakes are still reluctant to leave the tree branch.
That is a greater heating differential than I set for mine. The default differential of my unit is only 2 degrees F, meaning if I set the temp for 85 and it drops to 83 the unit powers on.
If yours is adjustable I'd set it to 2 degrees. The menu code is DS1 on my unit. 80 degrees on top of the substrate is not too bad but I'd bump it up to between 82-84, unless the temp at the glass under the substrate is too hot. Corns do burrow under the substrate and I wouldn't want it hotter than 85 on the glass.
Don't expect the corns to leave the branch, especially the one going into a shed. It may be days before he sheds and comes out exploring. Then take the advice and seal that branch if you don't want him back in it.
If yours is adjustable I'd set it to 2 degrees. The menu code is DS1 on my unit. 80 degrees on top of the substrate is not too bad but I'd bump it up to between 82-84, unless the temp at the glass under the substrate is too hot. Corns do burrow under the substrate and I wouldn't want it hotter than 85 on the glass.
Don't expect the corns to leave the branch, especially the one going into a shed. It may be days before he sheds and comes out exploring. Then take the advice and seal that branch if you don't want him back in it.
He shed today, he did it in the tree and is still in it, he should be hungry now and i’m hoping he’ll come out to take a pinky but what if the smell gets him in a feeding mode and he eats the other snake?
I have never had young corn snakes eat another snake. I am sure it has happened to someone, so I would attempt to get one of the corns out of the tree hide. He may be hungry enough to come out eventually, but it may take a day or two. I would turn out the lights so their vivarium is completely in the dark, and check with a flashlight a couple times during the night to see if one is out moving around. I am not familiar with the hide, so don't want to make suggestions that are not appropriate to force one out, that may cause damage. Perhaps Dragonling has an idea?
should i wait to offer food until i can get them separated? he was due to eat on wednesday but just now shed and is still up there in the tree
they both came out and i took out the tree and put new hides in, he took the pinky out of tongs while in my hand and i’m pretty sure he wants another, but i watched him explore the whole thing for the first time since he was shedding when he got here and he really touched every inch of that thing with his nose. i’m still a little worried as he’s a little bigger and she might get eaten but the paint on my new enclosure needs to cure, unless getting them separated takes a priority?
So far things are going well. He shed, they are out of the tree hide, now you can modify it. If you still have the container one of the corns came in you could put the small one in it temporarily until the paint dries. If not, any small container with a water cup will suffice, placed close to the warm end.
all is well, i set up a little plastic bin with a hide and water bowl and set the whole thing half on and half off of the heat mat in the bigger enclosure. both of them ate readily today and there’s no danger of one becoming food. as soon as my wooden enclosure’s paint cures i’ll get her into her new, more permanent home. one of my snakes is around 6-7 months old and eats 2 pinkies easily, do you think he could move up to a bigger meal or is he too young?
Many of the members use a gram scale and weigh their snake, then refer to the Munson feeding chart. While I would say the 6-7 month old should have already been able to eat a fuzzy, a lot depends upon its size. I've raised so many corns I can just look at one and tell it's time to move up in size. I did buy a gram scale at WalMart to weigh corns I was selling. They are relatively inexpensive, may be $15-$20.
I actually already have a scale here, i’ll throw them on after they digest today’s meal.