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Adopted adult corn won't eat

Josh-n-Neaky

New member
My son (Josh) adopted a 6 year old corn (Neaky) in October. He is very healthy, and had just eaten 2 days prior to our acquisition, and just pooped the day before. He is about 55 inches long and two and half pounds. We expected a little transition time. He was on a 7-10 day schedule for feeding and ate 2 mice or one adult rat each time. His owner raised him from a hatchling, and says that he goes off of eating each winter from about Nov/Dec till March. She says she would sometimes force feed him a pinky during this time to keep him going. Previous owner always fed fresh-killed mice in his enclosure, and said he doesn't like the packaged ones, (thinking maybe they smell too plastic to him?).

We feel like we have tried everything. I've even gone so far as to brain a mouse to try to entice him. Last time I tried feeding, he showed interest, smelled it, looked at it, but just wouldn't strike. I held it there quietly for 15 minutes with him sniffing it before he just finally wandered away.

I spoke with a person who did a reptile show at a camp we were at, and he said to heat the enclosure up to 85 to get his appetite up, and then if he still wouldn't eat to just drop the temp and try again in the spring.

We have had him since September 9th (about 9 weeks), and he has shed twice.

Currently, heat pad and lamp are off, cage is around 65, and we keep fresh water and check on him at least once per week.

Ideas?
Should I be dropping the temp or not?
Should I try to feed him again one more time or not?
Does Josh still get to handle him when he's in a cooling period?

Lots of thanks from a newbie and her son!

:shrugs:
 
Also, previous owner was single lady, and I have a much crazier household...4 boys, 1 dog, 3 cats! The snake may have had a shock at first.
 
I would try a smaller mouse, like hopper size, fresh killed or frozen thawed, but if you do frozen thawed, heat it to 120 in running water, then rub dry with a paper towel or blow dry, so it is hot when you feed it. Then put him in a SMALL container with it, (think small enough that he can barely turn around- one of the smaller Sterilites with the latching lid works well) and cover it up with a towel, in a dark place, and leave him alone overnight. Obviously, the container has to be escape-proof and latched securely. I'd do this in the evening.
 
I would try a smaller mouse, like hopper size, fresh killed or frozen thawed, but if you do frozen thawed, heat it to 120 in running water, then rub dry with a paper towel or blow dry, so it is hot when you feed it. Then put him in a SMALL container with it, (think small enough that he can barely turn around- one of the smaller Sterilites with the latching lid works well) and cover it up with a towel, in a dark place, and leave him alone overnight. Obviously, the container has to be escape-proof and latched securely. I'd do this in the evening.



As above , then keep repeating the blasting with a hairdryer then offer with tongs , then blast with hairdryer etc .. Repeat many times ...


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I worry about how long I can offer it and keep it safe to eat (when will it go bad?).

Any thoughts on the cooling during winter? Should I turn his heat back on and do these feeding attempts?
 
Ahh ...we're in the UK and we never turn the heat off ...... I always thought that was what the breeders did to bruminate them before pairing them off in the spring ..... Mine have heat all year long and the males do quite often go off their food for a few months but it's normal and does them no harm at all .

Some snakes have been known to go over two YEARS without food and been perfectly fine . I would get the heat back on ( with a stat ) and leave him alone for a while . Maybe try him again in a month . I certainly would NOT be force feeding him either ..
 
Yeah, I thought the force feeding bit was a little over the top. These animals don't WANT to kill themselves, right? If their natural habit is to not eat through winter, then that's ok, right?

Zincubus- We're in Southern Oregon in USA (South a few hundred miles from latitude of UK, so it should be warmer not cooler than there)
 
Yeah, I thought the force feeding bit was a little over the top. These animals don't WANT to kill themselves, right? If their natural habit is to not eat through winter, then that's ok, right?

Zincubus- We're in Southern Oregon in USA (South a few hundred miles from latitude of UK, so it should be warmer not cooler than there)



I've seen quoted temps of between 73F ( cool) and 87F ( warm )
so you can go from there ...


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Yeah, I thought the force feeding bit was a little over the top. These animals don't WANT to kill themselves, right? If their natural habit is to not eat through winter, then that's ok, right?

Zincubus- We're in Southern Oregon in USA (South a few hundred miles from latitude of UK, so it should be warmer not cooler than there)

Weather is so much more complicated than latitude. Great Britain is much warmer than its latitude suggests. There's this little ocean current called the Gulf Stream that has something to do with it.

If this snake normally goes off its feed these months, I wouldn't be too worried. Between settling into a new home and his normal cycle Neaky will be fine for a while.

Don't feed if proper temps can not be maintained. If Neaky has been kept cool make the increase to proper temps gradually. Raising and dropping temps back and forth is bad. Those who do brumate their snakes do it very carefully, gradually dropping the temps in the fall and gradually raising them in the spring. The snake having an empty tummy is essential during this time. I don't do it and don't advise it unless you really study how to do it or have someone experienced to guide you.

Best wishes.
 
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I think any snake that is iffy about eating is only going to be disturbed by you shoving prey in its face with tongs. I do have a couple that that has worked on, but they are not long-term food refusers, and I really only nudge the laying down mouse to call attention to it.
 
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