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Aggressive snake
- Thread starter phillip
- Start date
TWGarland
Active member
dont worry about it all hatchlings feel more insecure and it makes them more likely to be aggressive. Plus there not habituated to being handled yet, so just persevere, and dont be hesitant if it tries to bite, just take it. Also remember to try not to reinforce bad behaviours, like not picking it up as soon as it done some tail rattling, otherwise it'll just do it more if it learns its not gonna be handled. As long as you take these points into account, and handle your hatchling regularly, i'd saw more than a few times a week, i dont handle twice in the same day if i can avoid it, and of course no handling in the two to three days after eating.
Jimmy Johnson
Old Timer
handle it
It is only 14 inches long, it can't do any damage.
Reach in, pick the snake up and handle it until it calms.
Do this on a regular basis and it will calm down.
It is only 14 inches long, it can't do any damage.
Reach in, pick the snake up and handle it until it calms.
Do this on a regular basis and it will calm down.
RedRaydin
Jason DeFreitas
Just some more tidbits
As hatchlings again yes this is common. You do however want to take action now to ensure that it gets to know your scent and your motions when a handling session is about to occur. There are many ways to go about this and if you use the search feature at the top of the site and put in "handling" or "aggressiveness" I'm sure you'll find more. Techniques I found that were helpful with mine (who was a rattler and tongue flicker when I first got it):
1) Always was your hands before and after handling as a snake will not be able to tell the difference between your scent and things you have touched prior to holding.
2) Do not move your hand around all over the cage attempting to grab the snake many times. Instead you want to scoop your hand underneath, and need be if you have a snake that darts quickly away grasp him at the body a third of the way down. Not hard, but firm to not let him writhe all over. Do this for about a minute or two while having the rest of his body in your palm (not dangling). This will or should calm the snake down some.
3) Try the shirt method. Take any old shirt or light towel and drape it over the head of your corn as to cover him up. Do not smother. Scoop your hand under the snake and pick it up, then remove the towel.
Your snake may be naturally scared for a while and this is common. But if you try these techniques I am sure that the snake will calm with age... however, there are the occasional ones that are untameable. But if yours is a hatchling and you start now you have a good shot. Good luck.
Lastly, before I forget. When feeding, use tongs and do not leave your hand in the cage for a long time, simply pick the mouse or pinkie up, place it on whatever bedding you may have and pull your hand out. The snake needs to be able to differentiate your hand and tongs (as one resembles feeding, the other holding). One last comment, make sure there is not 2,3, 4 people around for a while as the snake is already scared and does not need a lot of commotion. Also limit handling to 2-3 times a week and do not over handle as this can lead to stress (in some cases). And definately wait to hold them until they have passed 2-3 days after feeding (normally). You don't wanna end up with a mess, especially if your snake is stressed to begin with. Hope this info helps.
As hatchlings again yes this is common. You do however want to take action now to ensure that it gets to know your scent and your motions when a handling session is about to occur. There are many ways to go about this and if you use the search feature at the top of the site and put in "handling" or "aggressiveness" I'm sure you'll find more. Techniques I found that were helpful with mine (who was a rattler and tongue flicker when I first got it):
1) Always was your hands before and after handling as a snake will not be able to tell the difference between your scent and things you have touched prior to holding.
2) Do not move your hand around all over the cage attempting to grab the snake many times. Instead you want to scoop your hand underneath, and need be if you have a snake that darts quickly away grasp him at the body a third of the way down. Not hard, but firm to not let him writhe all over. Do this for about a minute or two while having the rest of his body in your palm (not dangling). This will or should calm the snake down some.
3) Try the shirt method. Take any old shirt or light towel and drape it over the head of your corn as to cover him up. Do not smother. Scoop your hand under the snake and pick it up, then remove the towel.
Your snake may be naturally scared for a while and this is common. But if you try these techniques I am sure that the snake will calm with age... however, there are the occasional ones that are untameable. But if yours is a hatchling and you start now you have a good shot. Good luck.
Lastly, before I forget. When feeding, use tongs and do not leave your hand in the cage for a long time, simply pick the mouse or pinkie up, place it on whatever bedding you may have and pull your hand out. The snake needs to be able to differentiate your hand and tongs (as one resembles feeding, the other holding). One last comment, make sure there is not 2,3, 4 people around for a while as the snake is already scared and does not need a lot of commotion. Also limit handling to 2-3 times a week and do not over handle as this can lead to stress (in some cases). And definately wait to hold them until they have passed 2-3 days after feeding (normally). You don't wanna end up with a mess, especially if your snake is stressed to begin with. Hope this info helps.
kev1144
New member
I was thinking he was being fed in his tank so he is use to associating everything that enters his tank as food. But this doesn't sounds like the case. If he was friendly and is now lashing out then check the temps and make sure he/she is not in shed. If he/she has always been like Sean Penn around the press then I'd just handle him more like people suggested and he'll calm down.
Nanci
Alien Lover
Most of my snakes tail rattle when feeding. Most tail rattle if startled. The youngest tail rattles pretty much the entire time I have her out. She is just afraid.
Tongue flicking doesn't have anything to do with aggression- it means the snake is gathering information about the environment. Tongue flicking decreases or disappears in a sick animal. Tongue flicking increases in a new environment.
I feed my snakes in different containers, because it is like a territory for them- they have their own scent in there.
Nanci
Tongue flicking doesn't have anything to do with aggression- it means the snake is gathering information about the environment. Tongue flicking decreases or disappears in a sick animal. Tongue flicking increases in a new environment.
I feed my snakes in different containers, because it is like a territory for them- they have their own scent in there.
Nanci