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Bad Scenario, please help

Yes, that's perfectly normal behaviour :)

Corns are crepuscular by nature, which means they are most active around dusk and dawn, but they can sometimes take a while to settle in before venturing out and exploring their new surroundings :)
 
Do update us and let us know if he took the pinky head and managed to keep it down.... we are rooting for the little guy/gal!
 
Brief update and quick question. It has been 8 days since my snake regurged his/her meal, and things have been going much better since then. The tank's temperature and humidity have been stable the entire time, and kevin is acting much healthier (has more energy in general, and has been more active, especially in the mornings).

General knowledge on this forum has been to wait 8-10 days before refeeding half a pinky mouse. My question is-should I feed him/her the half pinky today or wait an extra 2 days just to be safe? My concern is that kevin has not eaten since before i took him home some 15-16 days ago (-the regurged meal). Thanks again for the help
 
He can manage to wait the full 10 days, esp if you see him still being active and it has only been approx. 15 days since the regurge. Just remember to follow Kathy Loves regurge FAQ to the "T". It is crucial for his recovery.
 
Today was the day I was supposed to feed him, but unfortunately he is refusing the pinky head at the moment. I brained it, and its still refusing. Any ideas?
 
Our golddust motley female is really skittish, and barfed her first pinkie at our house (most likely because of too much handling). We waited the ten days, and then tried her with the smallest pinkie we could get (and it was tiny). She still refused it, so we fed it to someone else and waited another couple of days. Repeat the last two sentences. We finally tried putting a pinkie at the entrance to her hide, and left it overnight. She ate it during the night. Since then, we've found that she'll eat at whatever time she's danged well ready, thank you very much, so we put her in a deli tub with a pinkie and leave her overnight. Next morning, without fail, there's one less free-range pinkie in the world.

I advise patience, grasshopper. Try just leaving snake and chunk alone for several hours and see what happens.

An advantage to using a whole live pinkie (if they're available) is that they don't rot if you leave them. Again, if they're available locally, tell the shop guy you want the tiniest one they have, and a reputable shop will work with you.
 
I tried the overnight trick, it didnt work. Im going to try the brown paper bag idea, hopefully this works. Kevin is clearly losing weight and Im getting worried
 
Ms. Love suggested to me a few years ago that I put him in his box and take him for a drive. Apparently, movement stimulates them and for some reason it really works.

Mine took himself for a drive by getting out of his tank and circling the room a few times before I caught him. I put him back in, covered the tank so it was dark, and put a live pinkie in. Within a few minutes he was eating. It had been over a month and he was so tiny I was worried. He's three now and we've had no problems since.
 
If you use the paper bag, make sure the pinkie is brained. If the snake is left alone in a small, secure, dark place with a good smelling pinkie right next to him he will probably eat. Just leave him overnight.

But make sure the bag is super secure and no up high so it can fall.
 
Hmmm...did you try the paper bag? Try rubbing the pinkie in beef broth. I've heard that may work. I think I posted that earlier as an idea...

Also, try braining the pinkie and putting just the head in the paper bag. Maybe that will work.

*And just a thought, maybe Kevin doesn't like the temperatures you have on him. My snake Erricca hides ALL THE TIME when its 70-74 but as soon as it hits 75-76 she is out and about. So maybe just change the temp a few degrees.
 
Air exactly what are your temps, warm side and cool side and what do you use to check them with again??? As well I do not recall your answer on how much you have been handling Kevin??

How long have you had Kevin, is he just little because he could be starting a shed cycle and most will not eat when in shed. At the start of a shed cycle he will just be sluggish, then a day to a few days later his eyes will look "blue" that will day a few days, then they will clear up and for a few days or more he will still be sluggish then finally he will shed. A couple days after the shed, if that is what is happening will be a great time to put him in a very small container with air holes add the brained pinkie and if you wish scented in tuna, chicken or beef broth, put it his viv and walk away, do not even check on him for at least 30 min and if he still has not eaten it leave him and it in there until morning, just do not leave it on the warm side, leave it in the middle.
 
Yeah, the paper bag did not work. Im trying the beef broth now.

By sluggish, I mean Kevin is just lying there out in the open. That is a first, usually he/she is just hidden under the hide while only coming out a few times a day. Its really unusual
 
To Asbit-The warm side is kept around 84 degrees, the cool side is in the 70s. It is being checked by a thermometer bought at radio shack through means of a probe. With the exception of putting Kevin into his food box (which is how he ate last time) I have not handled him at all.

I have had Kevin since the 13th. His eyes have not turned blue at all, if he is starting a shed cycle that would be news to me. It would explain him not eating at all though, especially if he is just starting
 
Air I do agree that it is very strange he is just hanging out in the open...I have another suggestion that Kathy Love gave me. She told me to use a single hide, esp with the little babies, it will give them more security and it will give them better temp gradient options.

Here is what you do.. use either paper towel tubes taped together to be the length of his viv and then cut in half length wise...then cut a hole in the top in the middle or along the bottom edge in the middle. Or if you want a more sanitary longer lasting "all in one" hide(as I call it) use PVC piping that is only a bit larger in diameter than 2-3 times the thickness of your snake. Then follow then same building instructions as above, just make sure that all the cut edges are smoothed so that there are no rough or sharp spots left.

Doing this will dramatically reduce his stress level...less stress=better health and better chance of eating and less illness. What Kathy explained is that sometimes they will not want to be as hot as the warm hide but not as cool as the cold hide so they feel they have no choice but to stay in the open to get the temp they want but it stresses them out a lot. We made this hide for our little one and she was so happy with it. She mainly comes out at the usual times when a corn snake would in the wild(dusk and dawn and a bit in the night) and when she is thirsty. She no longer has to stress herself to get the temp she wants as all the temps are in her one hide. Here is are two pics for you.

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100_6894.jpg


As well in case you did not know a little corn sheds on average 1x month. So Kevin may be getting ready to shed, if you have a small container that you can put a hole in the side half way up and leave the lid on, do so and add some wet paper towels, or sphagnum moss and put it in his viv on the middle as a moist shed box...if he feels he needs it he may use it.

Hope this helps you out.
 
Im actually using that idea as a hide right now, at least a version of it, Kathy mentioned it in an earlier message on this thread. However, mine doesnt stretch all the way across like that, I just have a long paper towel roll cut lengthwise. My snake has used it a fair amount though, at least until today

I definitely can look for a small container with a lit for the shed box, Ive been meaning to get one of those going as it is. Thanks for all of the help.
 
Im afraid I have some bad news everyone, I woke up this morning to find Kevin dead this morning. needless to say, Im obviously upset about it. I just wanted to thank everyone here for thier help and advice, I guess it just wasnt meant to be.

What do I have to do to get the tank reset so i can try again? With the tank temps right and not getting a snake from petco, I should have more success this time around.
 
Sorry to hear about Kevin's death. It hurts to lose a baby you've worked so hard with. *hugs*

In order to prep for a new snake, I would do two things. Given that you had a regurge, coupled with strange behavior (i.e. laying out) the fear of cryptosporidium runs strong in me, so I would throw out all of the porous things... i.e. bedding, paper towel hide, etc. Then I would take your ten gallon outside, put all of the non-porous decor in it (like water bowls, plants and any ceramic hides) and I'd use a dilute ammonia/water mixture to kill any possible bad bugs that may have got onto the tank. The other thing that kills crypt spores (not saying this WAS crypt, again, just that I am deathly afraid of it and would rather be safe than sorry!) is exposure to direct sunlight, so I'd probably put it in the sun for a week and let it bake.

Bleach can be used and will kill most pathogens... unfortunately crypt can survive bleach exposure and be just fine.

Once it's been scrubbed out and disinfected, you can set it up with a new paper towel hide, just like Kathy described. If possible, perhaps choose a different vendor or pet store. Sometimes petstores as a whole don't take great care of their snakes, or get them from sub-par sources, so perhaps a change in vendor will improve your odds.

The one sad thing about baby snakes is that they are not all meant to survive. Snakes produce loads of babies, and a lot of them in the wild would be food for other things. In captivity we do our best to give them all they need, but sometimes it just isn't meant to be.

I wish you luck with your next corn. Kathy knows her stuff. Follow what she says and you will be just fine.
 
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