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Breeders - Mice vs. Rats

nlove_3000

New member
I have a question about pinkies!!! And yes... I do know how to "make a pinkie"...LOL

The question is...what is the mouse eqivalent to the size of a rat pinkie? Would rat pinkies be closer to the size of a small mouse or hopper or what? We currently have 2 male and 2 female rats and I agree that they smell tolerable MUCH longer than the stinky mice and hamsters we used to have. I have three adult corns, 2 yearlings, and a hatcling.... so I'm wondering if breeding the rats will truely benefit me at this point.

Second question is...How long is the gestation for rats vs. mice? I'm trying to figure out if at this point it would be more worth it to do rats, mice, or both.

Thanks so much for your help guys!
 
I raise mice for feeders when I hit five snakes, the cost of breeding mice was a little less than the cost of buying feeder mice. Now I have nine snakes so it is much cheaper. I am not familiar with rats, my only worry would be for hatchings a pinky rat may be two big.
I am going to be interested in what people have to say as the only problem with mice is with four adult snakes, sometimes I have to feed two mice, which I can't quite seem to keep up with litter wise. I got a "pair" of hamsters (raised them before) well the pair is two girls I suspect, no fighting, no mating and no babies.
 
The reason I ask is because someone before told me rat pinkies are the size of large mice. This would work for my adults...but obviously too big for hatchlings. Mice would work for them. How much "production" can I expect of mice (so I can gauge how many I would need to keep up)??
 
I looked on rodent pro site pinkie rat 2-8 grams=peach fuzz-fuzzy mice.
Since I agree hamsters are stinkie plus maybe one in five have a decent personality, I have thought about gerbils. When I brought this before some thought a gerbil might be to big, but I am thinking I could crush the skull?????
 
A friend of mine told me he gave his snake gerbil once, and apparently it's like "gourmet" food to a snake. Now his snake refuses everything else... be careful!!!!! He had a ball python but I don't know if it would ring true for corns.
 
I raise both.... rats would be great for all the larger snakes but depending on the size of the baby, it might not work. New born rats are maybe the size of small hoppers if you catch them right away.. I have a 5 month old RO that can eat that size. I prefer rats because of the smell too :) The gestation period is about the same. Litter size is usually somewhere between 5-14 babies on rats. (the litter size is usually on the higher end after the first litter and then they have lotsssss for a long time and then towards the end of their life they get smaller again) I think I have a couple newborn rats in the freezer if you want me to weigh them for a size idea :)
 
I guess I could go to rodentpro to get weight comparisons. I hadn't thought of that before now :) I just wanted to confirm that only my adults could eat them at this point....so with 3 adults, each of my two female rats having one litter should give me enough food for the adults. And it seems like mice are the most sensible option for the younger guys....THanks!
 
Do rats form colonies like mice, can you leave the male with the female and can you leave females together?
 
you can house females together... as long as you get them young and they grow up together. When breeding, I have only one female/one male together. The male (atleast mine) can be left with the female. I have been lucky to have males that dont bug the babies at all and even play with them when they are abit grown and get out and about :) Also, if something happens to the female.... which it will because with breeding all the time they just dont live as long :( the males I have are really good about accepting new females too. For me... the rats are easier to care for because they dont fight like the mice do.
 
IMO, rats are too high in fat to be a staple diet for corns or kings. I only feed rats to my boids...

I usually have 1.6 mice in a 10g critter cage. This gives me about 30-40 pinks per month, roughly. I'm trying a larger coloony in a larger enclosure this winter...1.9 in a 20high...see how that works...higher monthly production levels per colony, I hope... :shrugs:

I also keep 1.1 rats in the same cage at all times and they produce about 15 pinks per month.
 
Mice are better feeders to breed yourself for just corn snakes. Rats get too big too fast and require a lot more space. Mice will never get too big for a corn, and you can get a nice size colony going in just a 10 gal tank.
 
Well I don't know what I"m doing wrong I had 1.3, one female never bred but was a good Mom. I started another colony 1.2 they did OK but first male very aggressive towards me, great Dad. So he got replace with son, the most I got out of that colony was 12-15 a month but had to remove wienlings, before the female would drop next litter. So if I took them out today, she would have a litter tonight and the other female soon after. Now my origianl colony has started eating some fo the babies, and 5 out of 15 were like mini-mice adult looking, acting, eating, but about the size of a quarter. I seperated those to see what happens. Just this past month I have had a hard time growing any to feeder size. I started a new colony of 1.2 white mice to see what happens, so far one is pregnant. I'm seriously thinking of keeping just the mine and the white and freezing the rest and starting another new colony :shrugs: susan
ps thanks again for starting this thread, I'm really learning a lot.
 
Rats VS. Mice

I feed all rats with the exception of my hatchlings. I have found that my corns and kings do better on rats. Especially when you are getting them up to breeding weight. You don't have to feed as many rats as you do mice and my snakes seem to prefer them over mice. I started feeding rats b/c I had a butter that would only eat rat pinkies. She wouldn't even think about eating a mouse. It was cheaper and smelled better to raise rats rather than mice. I kept my male in with my females when they had babies and they were fine. I never had a problem introducing a new female in with the others. The only thing you had to watch for is they like to steal each others babies. After awhile they would take turns feeding all of the babies so momma could get away. As far as getting too big too quickly, freeze them.
 
susang said:
Well I don't know what I"m doing wrong I had 1.3, one female never bred but was a good Mom. I started another colony 1.2 they did OK but first male very aggressive towards me, great Dad. So he got replace with son, the most I got out of that colony was 12-15 a month but had to remove wienlings, before the female would drop next litter. So if I took them out today, she would have a litter tonight and the other female soon after. Now my origianl colony has started eating some fo the babies, and 5 out of 15 were like mini-mice adult looking, acting, eating, but about the size of a quarter. I seperated those to see what happens. Just this past month I have had a hard time growing any to feeder size. I started a new colony of 1.2 white mice to see what happens, so far one is pregnant. I'm seriously thinking of keeping just the mine and the white and freezing the rest and starting another new colony :shrugs: susan
ps thanks again for starting this thread, I'm really learning a lot.
You need to rotate your females to keep your numbers up. Back-to-back breeding takes alot out of the females, and they should be retired after roughly 6 months. Any more than 7 litters, or so, and the numbers dwindle, attitudes become meaner, and they get aggressive towards the offspring. The males don't lose as much through the breedings, and can be rotated once a year or so, depending on the attitudes displayed and the production numbers.

FWIW...12-15 pinks per month from only 2 females is fairly good production. You're average 6-7 babies per female per litter, which falls right in line with very average litter sizes. Use more females. This accomplishes several things:
First, more females automatically results in higher monthly production, because you have more wombs producing. With a 3 week gestation, it is unreasonable to expect any more than 1 litter per month from any female.

Second, it lowers the aggression of the females, because they share the mothering responsibilities. Instead of each mother protecting and caring for her own young, they share the workload and develope a more tight-knit family unit.

Third, it takes pressure off of the females by allowing the male more breeding options. Much like humans( :grin01: ), the males want to breed constantly, even if the female is already pregnant. In a 1.2 colony, both females will get pregnant fairly close together, leaving the male with no outlets for 3-5 weeks at a time.

Finally, more females in a colony helps to produce more "staggered" litters. If you have a new litter born every week of the month, it doesn't take long for the freezer to fill up. Plus, you can cull partial litters, and allow more babies to reach larger sizes, without depleting resources or causing mammary tumors in the females by removing all of the offspring while she is lactating.

I know it's pretty easy...get a male and a female and let nature do it's thing. But for steady mouse production, you need to be aware of more than the physical aspects of keeping and breeding mice. There are limitations, naturally, to what females are capable of. Left to their own devices, mice are notorious overbreeders. But continued back-to-back breedings cause a TON of physical wear and tear on the females, and greatly reduces their effective reproductive life expectancy. They will certainly live longer than they are productive in a breeding colony. Worn out females simply can't produce the way a young, vibrant, and freshly weaned female can...

FWIW...I rotate females every 6 months, almost like clockwork. First week of September and first week of March, I get new females, and retire the previous breeders. I also have MUCH lower production numbers during summer months, when heat tends to ward off any desire for breeding the mice have...males included. This is the same schedule I have set up for my colonies in the pet store, and works well for both my personal and professional needs...
 
tyflier said:
Worn out females simply can't produce the way a young, vibrant, and freshly weaned female can...
QUOTE] just what are you trying to say are you saying women get old and worn out, less desirable and vibrant. I resemble that statment, LOL.

Ok I am going to go get 1.6. Some but not all of my adult females are six months. Acouple are preggers so I let them have their babes and off to the freezer.
 
susang said:
tyflier said:
Worn out females simply can't produce the way a young, vibrant, and freshly weaned female can...
QUOTE] just what are you trying to say are you saying women get old and worn out, less desirable and vibrant. I resemble that statment, LOL.

Ok I am going to go get 1.6. Some but not all of my adult females are six months. Acouple are preggers so I let them have their babes and off to the freezer.
Leave the "old" females in with their young, but maybe remove the male to rpevent them getting pregnant again. New females will kill the babies without their mothers to protect them. Better yet...take the pregnant "retirees" out and start a full, new, fresh colony(except the male, if you wish) in a different container. When the "old ladies" give birth, let them raise their young without a male present, and retire them when you're ready. Then you will have an empty container for raising weanlings to adults in...;)

...just what are you trying to say are you saying women get old and worn out, less desirable and vibrant...
Happens to men too...at least I FEEL worn out and less vibrant...;)
 
I breed both mice and rats. I have had alot of success with both.

Rats form wonderful family groups and are really intelligent compared to the mice. They also smell alot less! lol They do grow alot faster than mice though. I usually "harvest" them as they get to the right prey size and freeze them for later use. I have a 1.5yr old and he's on small rats fuzzies (Peach fuzzies) or bigger mouse hoppers. My big male is on large rat fuzzies or adult mice. IF you catch the rats at newborn size, they can replace bigger mouse fuzzies as a meal.

I never have more than 4 or 5 females per male with either the rats or the mice. Two males will fight, but females rarely do in my experience, unless its a new adult introduced into an established adult colony...though to be honest, even then I haven't had problems...

PS: BEWARE, MOTHER RATS ARE EVIL!!!!
 
Forgot to say, I know rats are higher in fat but I have found that my corns do very very well on them and they are great for boosting weight and condition. Having said this however, I carefully watch my corn's weight and conditions so they do not get too fat! I also feed less often when feeding rats, so say every 9-10 days instead of every 7 days.
 
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