• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Brumation

I have heard of the 3 rule. Females: 3 years, 300 gr, and I'm sure I'm missing another 3.
For males it's aroud 2, but I don't know the safe weight.

I was told by my breeder youngest burmation should not be before 1 year old or 2. Plus there is no need to burmate unless you plan on breeding.

I have never burmated nor bred myself, so let's wait for experienced members who'll give you more advice.
 
mishima25 said:
I have heard of the 3 rule. Females: 3 years, 300 gr, and I'm sure I'm missing another 3.
For males it's aroud 2, but I don't know the safe weight.

I was told by my breeder youngest burmation should not be before 1 year old or 2. Plus there is no need to burmate unless you plan on breeding.

I have never burmated nor bred myself, so let's wait for experienced members who'll give you more advice.
Click to expand...

Not an expert here.. but the missing "3" your refering to is 3ft in length (3yrs/300g/3ft).
 
The rule of 3's is the general recommendation for breeding.

Brumating is not necessary, even for breeding.
It's easier to time ovulation with brumation, but you can still successfully breed without it.

You can brumate hatchlings (they do in the wild), but most people don't. I have brumated hatchlings, and the only ones I lost were non eaters in the first place.
*Brumating some non eaters did trigger some of them to eat, so it can be beneficial.
 
It seems like everyone who brutes "enough" snakes inevitably loses one or two each season. It is not as safe as not brumating. Unlike the benefits it has for tortoises and turtles, it doesn't serve any healthy purpose for snakes- it is simply a way to survive a period of temps too cold to move around in.
 
Nanci said:
It seems like everyone who brutes "enough" snakes inevitably loses one or two each season. It is not as safe as not brumating. Unlike the benefits it has for tortoises and turtles, it doesn't serve any healthy purpose for snakes- it is simply a way to survive a period of temps too cold to move around in.
Click to expand...

That and it gives the breeder a break from feeding and cleaning.

Some areas cannot brumate, due to temps being too warm in the winter.
 
mishima25 if you have a finicky eater bromating is a good idea , when you bring them back out of brumation they are usually ravenous feeders
 
mishima25 said:
I have heard of the 3 rule. Females: 3 years, 300 gr, and I'm sure I'm missing another 3.
For males it's aroud 2, but I don't know the safe weight.

I was told by my breeder youngest burmation should not be before 1 year old or 2. Plus there is no need to burmate unless you plan on breeding.

I have never burmated nor bred myself, so let's wait for experienced members who'll give you more advice.
Click to expand...



There's another THREE rule ... For surviving the desert apparently.

You can supposedly survive :-

THREE hours in the sun
THREE days without water
THREE weeks without food .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top