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Can you do it without the Brumation?

I plan on breeding next year... Not the first time I've dealt with eggs and hatchlings, but the first time I get to deal with the mating end of it!

I have a little bit of a "deadline" for pippies. I'm using this year and next year's breedings and results for my Senior project in high school, and have to have the results before presentations in May. Robbie was very kind to let me know that brumation will significantly improve my chances of successful copulation "on time", so that's what I'm going to do.

I probably won't brumate after that. I'm not breeding for profit or anything, so a few extra slugs and late breedings here and there aren't going to bother me... So far as each season goes well for me and the snakes, overall.

tradernick said:
During a storm, eh? We have awesome storms in central FL so that shouldn't be a problem!
Nick
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Lol! I should have a lot of luck, then, too. I can't say our storms are "awesome", but we do get almost constant rainfall 9/12 months of the year (and sometimes longer)... We normally get some crazy storms (and almost-annual blackouts) right around December, too, which should make getting my pair to perform on time absolute cake! ;)
 
Do a search from the tools at the top of the page. you should find many answers using that tool.

But to answer ..... As a "General rule" 3 ft,3 yrs, 300 grams but you can go earlier if you know what your doing....and the snake is in certain conditions....
 
katia said:
the introducing them during a storm...does that really work? when i first read it i thought it was gonna be a joke-post!
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I can't speak for that, but there' s some good evidence out there that live bearing snakes like boas tend to have the babies during rainstorms. I thought it was kinda funny, but guess what? Mine had hers on the only rainy day during a two week span!
 
Brumation is not required to breed. there. i said it.

Trying to get around other breeders will not help, because they will still have snakes avalible when you want to hatch yours.


katia said:
the introducing them during a storm...does that really work? when i first read it i thought it was gonna be a joke-post!
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Yes, it works. Thats how i did mine! its all about the barometric pressure..
 
2 of my 3 clutches came from non burmated snakes. Both were healthy and had very few issues, however they were later in the season. The other was a wild caught who actually laid later than the other 2.... go figure
 
oh and i forgot to say, i recommend you get kathy love's book "Cornsnakes: The comprehensive owner's guide" which can be found here. You will learn a lot about breeding and keeping corns in general from it.

I was just reading further and brumation does not hurt the snakes unless it is done wrong. I have had general success with brumation. I will most likely do it every year, just because it MIGHT help chances of a hookup.
 
cooling

Can you cool your corns at other temps such as 60-70 degrees and get better ferility rate in females without the risk being at 55 degrees.
 
From what I know "form reading not experiance" that the whole reason to get the snakes so cold is to slow their metabalism so they do not burn to many calories while not eating during the brumation. So what temp gives the best success rates? Not sure but I would assume keeping the snake between 45 & 55 degrees F would be the best bet. Also I would think little fluctuations is the temp would be important too.
 
Arpolis said:
From what I know "form reading not experiance" that the whole reason to get the snakes so cold is to slow their metabalism so they do not burn to many calories while not eating during the brumation. So what temp gives the best success rates? Not sure but I would assume keeping the snake between 45 & 55 degrees F would be the best bet. Also I would think little fluctuations is the temp would be important too.
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the point of brumation has nothing to do with calories, though it does bring there metabalism down. again, i would go with Kathy Love on this one.

The Corn Snake Manual said:
We aim for a cool season in the 45-65 F. range for about 60-75 days, but its not a factor that must be critically monitored or controlled. Corns can handle "hibernation" periods of three months easily and safely; some herpetoculturists recommend a longer rest, for both the snakes and themselves.
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