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couple questions...

dadcoy

New member
Hello everyone,
I am new to snakes, have always kept reptiles(monitors, geckos, uro's...)
I have the tank below dedicated to my baby corn snake Gabriel. I have a small heat mat that is attatched to bottom of tankbelow the cave on left. I also use the flood light to heat up that side during the day, an Gab does enjoy it on occasion, hanging from the branch. Now my question is this, I know the theory is that they doent need UVB, but in talking to my local reptile tile that is in charge of snakes at the ZOO, he said yes they can get away with not having it, but why not give it to them because they do get it in the wild, and it will help to bring out the color. Now this is not to be a discussion of need or not, because frankly that isn't what concerns me. I am wondering if the UVB/Basking bulbs in one bulb the lowest I found was 80W, the basking bulb I have is 75 and it heats at the hottest spot at 105*. anyone use these types of bulbs? do they get hotter than that? is there a scientific reason why I shouldn't use a basking spot, with the flood bulb I use the hot side substrate is about 90* and as stated 105 on the tree branch, which is were he likes to be on occasion.

I am new to snakes, but would love to hear what you guys do, I am going to use uvb just don't want to use 2 bulbs, and the snake expert said it was a good idea and will make the snake healthier, but not unhealthy without it, I want the best for my snake. I always give my lizards the best as well..

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They obviously do get uv light from the sun in the wild, but I don't believe it is a good idea to use any sort of light on any of the albino morphs. Somewhere around here, someone has a picture of their blizzard corn snake that had light on it for much of its life and its pupils are really messed up.

I also think that lights dry out the enclosure and can cause shedding problems, so if your heat pad is warm enough, I wouldn't recommend using a light as well. Snakes also do not bask, like lizards and turtles. They use belly heat to digest, so I think heat pads are a better option for them.
 
I have a 36" fluorescent that is part of the hood, that bulb should be good right? so you are saying no light at all?
how about the blue day view bulbs, or the red heat bulbs. Snakes cannot see red or blue light, so they should be fine correct?
 
You know, I just don't use light, so I'm not really familiar with all the different types. I personally would avoid any heat or uv emitting light. So, led lights or something similar for viewing would be fine, I think. My snakes just get some of the natural light that comes in from the windows and then some of the artificial light from the room light.

Someone who is more knowledgeable about lights may offer you some more insight.
 
the temp on the glass at the UTH is only 91* it is a small one, hence the reason I was using something for a little more heat during the day.
 
You know, I just don't use light, so I'm not really familiar with all the different types. I personally would avoid any heat or uv emitting light. So, led lights or something similar for viewing would be fine, I think. My snakes just get some of the natural light that comes in from the windows and then some of the artificial light from the room light.

Someone who is more knowledgeable about lights may offer you some more insight.

I, and most people on the forum would agree that lights (especially UV and lamps that emit any heat) are useless to corn snakes. They do not bask as they are nocturnal animals, and Hypnoctopus was right about using LED lights instead. The lamps DO dry out the vivs so for those reasons and many other negative points I would use only the UTH.

Does the UTH cover 1/3 of the bottom of the viv? Your UTH may be too small if it isn't producing enough heat.

I have never heard that using the UV lighting will produce a brighter colored snake. I wouldn't risk the snake's life for trying to get a brighter pet.

I know, it is hard to believe someone as knowledgeable about snakes could be wrong about this species, but the people here are ones that know corns intimately.

the temp on the glass at the UTH is only 91* it is a small one, hence the reason I was using something for a little more heat during the day.

I like to set my UTH thermostat at 87°, this gives the top of the substrate a nice 85° temp which is ideal.

And here is the picture Chip posted of an amel that was exposed to UV lighting. SO not worth the risk.
 

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the temp on the glass at the UTH is only 91* it is a small one, hence the reason I was using something for a little more heat during the day.

91 is plenty, maybe even a couple degrees warmer than what warm side should be. No more heat required.

Also, if your ambient temp increases (due to warmer weather outside), the uth temp will also likely rise. Keep an eye on it, thermostat may still be a good idea.
 
If you don't want to buy a thermostat and you're okay with babysitting it a bit, a rheostat should be cheaper and help prevent burns. I agree with all the foregoing advice about lights, heat etc.

Unfortunately reptiles don't all have the same needs and sometimes the worst advice comes from people who are experts on other reptiles and make assumptions about corn snakes. The zoo in my city has the most deplorable collection of corn and rat snakes living in a tree with two small hide boxes that they can't even all fit into, so the public will be able to see them. The zoo has been making a big show lately of converting to species-appropriate habitats but apparently it hasn't trickled down to the corn snakes yet. :(
 
the temp on the glass at the UTH is only 91* it is a small one, hence the reason I was using something for a little more heat during the day.

Much too warm, temps on the warm side should be around 85 - 87. You actually want a thermostat or rheostat to REDUCE those temps, not add a heat lamp to increase it further.
 
Much too warm, temps on the warm side should be around 85 - 87. You actually want a thermostat or rheostat to REDUCE those temps, not add a heat lamp to increase it further.

if you read it, it says on the glass it is 91* once I put the sticky tile down and the substrate it is less, I believe it was 89 on the tile. but also like I said it is a small UTH it is only the size of cave, just about 1/4th of the tank, and to stay warm he is just staying in cave, so I wanted to raise the temp in that half of the tank. my red bulb raises this side to 88* and is 72 on the other side

no harm in that right?
 
Whatever the floor is (whether it is your glass or the tile), that is where you need to set the temp. The ambient air temp ans/or temperature on top of the substrate is mostly irrelevant (assuming normal house temps).

89 on the floor is fine, but if you don't have a thermostat (or rheostat) with a temp probe glued to the floor (above the uth) on there, you at risk of that temp getting warmer as the ambient air temp rises (due to spring/summer).

At the very least you should have a thermometer with probe attached to the floor above the uth so you can at least monitor the temp and can see if it start to go above 89.

Recap: remove the red bulb - you do not really have to worry about the ambient air temp. Just make sure you are sitting at between 85-89ish on the floor above the uth.
 
Whatever the floor is (whether it is your glass or the tile), that is where you need to set the temp. The ambient air temp ans/or temperature on top of the substrate is mostly irrelevant (assuming normal house temps).

89 on the floor is fine, but if you don't have a thermostat (or rheostat) with a temp probe glued to the floor (above the uth) on there, you at risk of that temp getting warmer as the ambient air temp rises (due to spring/summer).

At the very least you should have a thermometer with probe attached to the floor above the uth so you can at least monitor the temp and can see if it start to go above 89.

Recap: remove the red bulb - you do not really have to worry about the ambient air temp. Just make sure you are sitting at between 85-89ish on the floor above the uth.

Maybe I am not explaining my goal correctly. yes the area above the "small" UTH is 89* but that is like a 4" x 4" square uth. o the rest of the tank is only about 65* so I need to raise that temp. some. and the red bulb does just that, raises the temp of the warm side to 88*(still only 89* on top of tile) and the cooler side is 72*. those temps are good right? and they are taken with a temp gun on the floor, not ambient temps.
 
Why is it only 65 in the viv? I guess the rest of your house that cold? Fwiw, my house would get to about that temp at night during the winter, with not ill effect on our snakes. Don't forget, while your uth may be small, the floor directly around is likely warmer than the 65. A heat gradient is good.

Honestly, I'm not 100% sure about your setup. While I'd be more inclined to not have the ambient temp so warm on the warm side, I suspect it is fine. I assume your snake cannot touch the red bulb?

One thing I would be concerned about is the humidity. That red light might make things a little dry and make shedding more difficult - do you have a hygrometer to measure humidity levels?
 
That 4x4" UTH is much too small for the size of your viv. You need to aim to cover 1/3 of the bottom of the viv, then use the thermostat set at about 87° to provide a good temp for the warm side and it will gradiate down to around 75° on the cool end. The larger the heated area above the UTH the better the temp in the cool end.

I agree with Foghat, the lamps and bulbs just aren't worth it. They are expensive and break easily, can cause fires if something touches them, can be hard to regulate and corns don't bask like other species of snakes. They are nocturnal, so what they want is a warm belly heat, not heat on their backs.

If you get the right size UTH with a thermostat you will be on the right track for a happy snake.
 
Why is it only 65 in the viv? I guess the rest of your house that cold? Fwiw, my house would get to about that temp at night during the winter, with not ill effect on our snakes. Don't forget, while your uth may be small, the floor directly around is likely warmer than the 65. A heat gradient is good.

Honestly, I'm not 100% sure about your setup. While I'd be more inclined to not have the ambient temp so warm on the warm side, I suspect it is fine. I assume your snake cannot touch the red bulb?

One thing I would be concerned about is the humidity. That red light might make things a little dry and make shedding more difficult - do you have a hygrometer to measure humidity levels?

Yes, I keep my house at 65* in winter and 70* in the summer. My house is well insulated and those temps keep a lot of extra green in my pockets :bird:
as of now the snake is to small to reach the bulb, but will have to do something different in a few months I am sure.


That 4x4" UTH is much too small for the size of your viv. You need to aim to cover 1/3 of the bottom of the viv, then use the thermostat set at about 87° to provide a good temp for the warm side and it will gradiate down to around 75° on the cool end. The larger the heated area above the UTH the better the temp in the cool end.

I agree with Foghat, the lamps and bulbs just aren't worth it. They are expensive and break easily, can cause fires if something touches them, can be hard to regulate and corns don't bask like other species of snakes. They are nocturnal, so what they want is a warm belly heat, not heat on their backs.

If you get the right size UTH with a thermostat you will be on the right track for a happy snake.

I had to use that size because they didn't have the next size up at my local shop. the way my tank is, its only 8" wide at the end, it is 16" wide in the center and I didn't want the 12" wide UTH because then the middle would be hot spot. I am fairly new to snakes and guess I will order the 8"X12" matt and make myself a thermostat for it(perk of being maintenance supervisor/HVAC expert, (parts about $10). and if I get that and keep it at 85-90* on the glass above it then no other heat is needed right, because 1/3rd of the tank will be heated by the UTH?

thanks for the help.

1 last question though, what is a good size home for a corn snake as an adult, I want to work on getting something built so on his/her 1 year birthday I can move him/her to the forever home.
 
Yes, I keep my house at 65* in winter and 70* in the summer. My house is well insulated and those temps keep a lot of extra green in my pockets :bird:

How does keeping your house at 70 in the summer keep "green" in your pocket? Seems like it would cost extra green to keep the A/C on to maintain that temp...but then again I don't know where you live.

I have my adult corn in a 20 gal long.

It appears that the viv is a fish tank with what appears to be a glass top, but I could be wrong.

If so, a screen top is always the way to go then you can cover part of it if need be for heating concerns.

When I see someone say something about a light or post a pic with a light, I just cringe knowing what type of replies will manifest.
 
I meant to say at 75* in the summer. it saves money because the national average of tstat settings for my area is 68*. so my AC doesn't run as much, it is the temp of the air as much as it is the humidity levels that make you uncomfortable in the summer, and my home hvac has an oversized coil and reduced fan speed which put the air on the coil longer to bring down humidity and cool....anyway that is an hour conversation...lol

wouldn't leaving the glass top on keep more heat in, than a screen top even partially covered? and its better for humidity correct? yes it is an aquarium with half glass and half plastic top.

not sure what you mean by you cringe knowing what type of reptile will manifest???
 
Replies, not reptiles haha...only because most people on this forum have strong opinions against the use of lights, especially heat lamps.

The topic comes up at least once a week it seems like.


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