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Easy to care for lizard?

Crickets carry parasites. Dragons housed together at a breeder or petshop walk through and lick each other's poo, spreading parasites. Coccidia occur naturally and are spread by licking poo that contains them. Stressful conditions allow the coccidia load to increase.
 
Does the Uro have the same issues with coccidia and adenovirus as well as the parasites like the beardies?
 
Uros aren't affected by and do not carry adenovirus.

They do carry worms, though. This is the Deerfern Farms policy on parasite control:

We routinely examine all stock for parasites, but we do not advocate the total elimination of common nematodes/pinworms. Reptiles can not chew their food and do not have rumens and thus are relatively inefficient at digesting plant matter. They rely on gut bacteria and protozoa for the proper enzymes, and since they don't chew their food, the action of nematodes helps breakup the food mass for more efficient digestion. Thus in theory the total elimination of nematodes is actually disadvantageous. We ourselves have seen this in poorer growth rates in nematode-free Mali juveniles verses those with low levels of nematodes. But it's not a free lunch. Excess nematodes or non-mutualistic parasites such as tapeworms hoard too many nutrients for themselves resulting in weight loss and poor overall condition in your Uromastyx. Therefore we monitor nematode levels in our animals and periodically apply Panacur (fenbendazole) or Albendazole. Once acclimated, we worm all wild collected stock, but again, we use dosages intended to limit but not totally eliminate nematodes. At your request, we can re-worm any for-sale specimens if you have a strong wish for us to do so, but we advise against this. Please note Uro's pick up parasite eggs from leafy vegetables (yes, even those from the store) and insects, so even if you have a parasite-free specimen, it will likely need worming periodically (we worm all our breeding stock annually prior to brumation plus all hatchlings every 2 to 3 months).
 
tricksterpup said:
well i you want a holdy type of beginner lizard I recommend.
Bearded Dragons
Blue Tongue Skinks

Non hand holdy
Leopard Geckos, some do not like to be held, while a few do.
Fat Tail Geckos
Crested Geckos
Anoles (need a large cage though, a 20 gallon for 2, male and female)
House gecko


For the more advanced
I recommend a Mali Uromastix or Even an Egyptian Uro. Now Egyptians get big but are so cool.
Click to expand...

I agree with most of that, however, I don't agree with African Fat-Tailed geckos being classed in the non-handleable section. I've handled about 10, and every single one was wonderful to handle, infinitely better than many lizards that I've handled. My own gecko, Gilbert, is absolutely fantastic, not a single bite or even hint of aggression in 6 months.

However, that being said, they are slightly more fragile and subseptible to problems if they're not cared for correctly. And coupled with their lack of colour morphs means that they're not as popular as Leos.

Say what you will, but AFTs are not non-handleable in any way.

To the original poster, of course I'm gonna be biased, but I'd go with an AFT. I feed mine, change water and sort his moss (clean the box, re-dampen the moss and replace every week or so) every other day. He's purely insectivorous, so vitamin and calcium supplementation is required, check a good caresheet for supplementation plans.

I think beardies, whilst amazing lizards, ask a lot of a new owner. They require pretty attentive care as youngsters, and their diet must be really varied (in terms of greens, fruit and veg).

For me, a Leo or an AFT is a great starter lizard, but at the end of the day, it's your choice :)

All the best

David
 
http://www.kingsnake.com/uromastyx/

Okay, apparently there are several Uro 'types'...
Are they all readily found in the US?
Which genus is most recommended?
Thanks.
 
Okay...ignore me...I just re-read and found the Mali and Egyptian were the 2 prior suggested...sorry.
 
I find that Mediterranean Geckos are pretty easy. I kept it outside with lows in the 40's and it did just peachy. Just needs fruit flies. If it is outside, put pieces of fruit in the cage. It works so well that I've had the fruit out of the cage for months and there are still fruit flies. And also keep the soil moist and give it a hidie-hole.
 
Beardies,or bearded dragons are DEFINATELY NOT a lizard for beginners.

They require a special diet, and have special lighting needs.
While great for someone with experience and dedication
they are NOT for a beginner.:uhoh:
 
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