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Feeding "HABITS"

Spurticus

New member
Just curious:
How do y'all feed your snakes ? . . . . . I've read a lot of different feeding rituals, and saw some "feeding FAQs" on the net. Most describe removing the snake from the Aquarium / Vivarium when feeding. Most say the reason is because of the possibility of the snake ingesting some of the substrate.

I feed my snake in her Aquarium. I have a liner made of a woven canvas material, and have several pre-cut to the size of the tank so every couple of weeks (sooner if necessary) I can just roll up the old one and toss it, and replace it with a clean one.

Anyway. . . . I have a couple of flat rocks in the tank for her to crawl on, and I just wave the thawed mouse in the tank and she picks up the scent. The first time I fed her, I layed the mouse on one of the flat rocks and she went straight to it and ate. I noticed for a couple of days she would go over to that rock and linger there for a few minutes as she was "making her rounds at night" .. . . .. The last time I fed her (few days ago) I put the mouse in a different location in the tank. I didn't want her to get used to the mouse being in the same location every time, and wanted to let her hunt a little.

Just wondering if any of you have ideas about feeding rituals, or do you perfer a set routine ? One of the first questions I asked on this site was about feeding. susang said she removed hers from the tank to feed because it gave her an opertunity to hold her snake and also to examine it for parasites. Pretty good idea. Just curious as to how some of you feed your snakes.
 
All 15 of mine (including hatchlings) get fed f/t in a separate feeding bin, appropriate to their size. I find the smallest size that I can fit the snake in to be the easiest for the snake to "find" right away. The reason I do this in this manner is not only so that no substrate is digested, but also so that the snakes learn not to associate my hand with food. They eventually seem to learn that something coming into their viv isn't food. Good question you've asked. I hope you get more responses.
 
Adults I feed in tub.
Juveniles (fuzzy through small adult) I feed in a tub identical to the tub they live in - but lined only with a paper towel (and while they are eating, I spot clean or if need be completely replace their tub)

Hatchlings - I tend to feed in their tub because I have much better success getting them to eat. At that small size, I've not had a substrate ingestion problem - possibly because their mouths are so small. Once they start getting to peach fuzzy size, they generally are confident enough to eat in a feeding tub.
 
All 15 of mine (including hatchlings) get fed f/t in a separate feeding bin, appropriate to their size. I find the smallest size that I can fit the snake in to be the easiest for the snake to "find" right away. The reason I do this in this manner is not only so that no substrate is digested, but also so that the snakes learn not to associate my hand with food. They eventually seem to learn that something coming into their viv isn't food. Good question you've asked. I hope you get more responses.

I Second this response to a T

:noevil:
 
It has been suggested that feeding in a vivarium conditions the snake to think that prey is being offered every time the lid is opened, causing the snake to have a feeding response, which can be striking and biting.

I typically don't feed in a bin. I like to clean, change water, and weigh snakes at the same time as feeding. So I flip over the lid of the bin and after weighing the snake, I offer food. I'll line up 4 - 6 snakes this way to maximize time. When feeding 15 - 30 snakes in one evening, it's nice to maximize.

There are a small number of snakes that simply won't eat this way. Those I throw in a container and check on later.

The exception to the 'feed out of the bin' rule are hatchlings. They're already in a smaller container with paper towels, so I just remove the paper towel and water dish. Sometimes, I'll throw the hatchling in a brown paper bag. They seem to really like the darker place to feed. Whatever works!

Enjoy!

-Tonya
 
Never thought about the association of my hand in the tank as "Dinner Time" ! I have a sweater box that I bought when I first got the wild Corn Snake several weeks ago. I drilled several holes in the lid and used it as temporary quarters for when I needed to clean up. It never got used to being handled in the short time I had it, so when I cleaned the Viv / Aquarium, I would lift it up with the hook and placed it in this box. I used that to transport the one I have now when I bought her almost a couple of weeks ago, so I'm guessing I can use that as a feeding area.
It's easier for me to pick her up from the sweater box too, because there's no place for here to wrap her tail around when she's being picked up.
 
It has been suggested that feeding in a vivarium conditions the snake to think that prey is being offered every time the lid is opened, causing the snake to have a feeding response, which can be striking and biting.

I typically don't feed in a bin. I like to clean, change water, and weigh snakes at the same time as feeding. So I flip over the lid of the bin and after weighing the snake, I offer food. I'll line up 4 - 6 snakes this way to maximize time. When feeding 15 - 30 snakes in one evening, it's nice to maximize.

There are a small number of snakes that simply won't eat this way. Those I throw in a container and check on later.

The exception to the 'feed out of the bin' rule are hatchlings. They're already in a smaller container with paper towels, so I just remove the paper towel and water dish. Sometimes, I'll throw the hatchling in a brown paper bag. They seem to really like the darker place to feed. Whatever works!

Enjoy!

-Tonya

Thanx Tonya

WOW 15 to 30 snakes !!
It's all I can do right now to raise this one. I would like to get a couple more later on, but I just don't have the room for several right now !
 
Mine all go in to separate tubs. Even then the Rats will track me VERY closely to see if I *might* be a mouse. This way I can spot clean and fluff the aspen without them in the cage. Of course, sometimes the aspen is pretty fluffy by the time I find the snake.

I'm picking up a runt on Saturday that will probably be kept on paper towels so he can be fed in the tub without handling. I can deal with cutting heads of mice, but handling a 2g worm makes me a little nervous. I want him to concentrate on eating/growing rather then worrying about the big scary thing.
 
Thanx Tonya

WOW 15 to 30 snakes !!
It's all I can do right now to raise this one. I would like to get a couple more later on, but I just don't have the room for several right now !

LoL.... well Spurt, thats one nights feed. I typically feed/clean 3 nights a week...but my actual numbers (85 give or take) are small compared to some here.

You clearly need more exposure to feed your addiction! LoL...

Enjoy!

-Tonya
 
mine all get fed in a feeding tub, I did use to feed them in their viv when I first got them but got worried once when one got some aspen stuck on a mouse once so after that I took them out to feed them. Better to be safe than sorry.
 
I'm picking up a runt on Saturday that will probably be kept on paper towels so he can be fed in the tub without handling. I can deal with cutting heads of mice, but handling a 2g worm makes me a little nervous. I want him to concentrate on eating/growing rather then worrying about the big scary thing.

That'd make me nervous, too! For super-tiny meals, I've had good luck cutting day-old pinks in half, lengthwise, while frozed, then thawing.
 
That'd make me nervous, too! For super-tiny meals, I've had good luck cutting day-old pinks in half, lengthwise, while frozed, then thawing.

Thanks for saying that you've had good luck with this. I still have two of my hatelings, I mean hatchlings (ha ha), who haven't taken any pinks and most of the other seven will be on their third and fourth pinks today. I think I will try this, and probably on paper towels in their little sterlite shoe box houses. They've had aspen for security, but those two seem like they're calling for a trick or two to be in order. :licklips:
This has been a helpful thread for me today; so thanks everyone! I have 6 others (almost yearling to adult) that eat great, but hatchie babies are here for the first time. Feeding the two amels that think they're cobras to a human pinky has needed a little encouragement that I may just have found in this thread.
 
All 15 of mine (including hatchlings) get fed f/t in a separate feeding bin, appropriate to their size. I find the smallest size that I can fit the snake in to be the easiest for the snake to "find" right away. The reason I do this in this manner is not only so that no substrate is digested, but also so that the snakes learn not to associate my hand with food.
I agree with you about hand-food association and the substrate factor. I put my snake in a box with no substrate as well. However, I found that if my snake Sampson isn't interested in the prey (because he's already started his shedding cycle and I am unaware, etc) and he's in a smaller sized box, he'll attack over and over without constricting or killing. I once put him in a USPS box with his fuzzy and he just bit the snot out of the fuzzy's face over and over. It freaked me out when it happened because he isn't an aggressive snake at all. (made me doubt :) )Also, I had a problem with him killing the prey without eating when he was in the smaller box. As soon as I moved him to a bigger feeder box, all those problems stopped.

Moreover, I'm all about "more natural" concepts in feeding. I try to make him "hunt" and search out his food by placing obstacles and fake vines and ground cover throughout the box. It's very interesting to watch him. He's extremely smart... at least much smarter than I ever would've thought. I figure if food is top priority on their list in the wild, why not stimulate them in captivity?
 
I only have one snake to feed, easiest animal I've ever been responsible for.
I feed Cheerio in her viv. I move the vines aside on the cool side where there is a sliding window and put down a piece of newspaper. She usually comes out to investigate intruders, she's not a hider. She'll find the mouse and sort of strike it. After she swallows it she takes a looong drink as I remove the paper and put the plants back. Sometimes she hides and digests, sometimes not.
I have never had a problem with her associating my hand with food, but this snake has never been aggressive in any way. Like I stated she will always investigate intruders but I guess she must know the difference between "food" and "the big thing without food". I can also clean up her viv a little while she eats. Really a nice animal.
 
I curently have 3 snakes and they all get fed in thier inclosures. Reason is I have never had a problem with doing that in all my years of having snakes. The only time I have been struck is when the snake has been over messed with when cleaning a cage. I do handle my snakes which are 1 alb corn 1 brazilain rainbow boa and 1 black rat.

Now I am not saying this is for everyone but I know with mine I can not remove them for feeding. I used to do it with the boa who's breed has a rep of being bity. He is the 3rd of that type I have owned and none have been but it had been awhile since owning one so I erred on the side of caution. Only to have him not eat for me after 3 times of doing it. He came from a breeder and is very docile.

So if you are removing your snakes and you are having problems with them eating try feeding without removing. For if you think they associated your hand with feeding removing them before feeding does the same thing. They know they are getting feed because you are putting them in another space to eat. So therefor your idea does not work as the same thing happens. Snake associated removing with feeding. aka feeding responce

Oh one more thing that I know can happen is that removing a snake with food in belly can make them sick and loose thier meal. It is something that your snake will tell you if it is a good idea or not to fed in or out of inclosure. Of course if you have many snakes that is not fesible.
 
I agree with you about hand-food association and the substrate factor. I put my snake in a box with no substrate as well. However, I found that if my snake Sampson isn't interested in the prey (because he's already started his shedding cycle and I am unaware, etc) and he's in a smaller sized box, he'll attack over and over without constricting or killing. I once put him in a USPS box with his fuzzy and he just bit the snot out of the fuzzy's face over and over. It freaked me out when it happened because he isn't an aggressive snake at all. (made me doubt :) )Also, I had a problem with him killing the prey without eating when he was in the smaller box. As soon as I moved him to a bigger feeder box, all those problems stopped.

Moreover, I'm all about "more natural" concepts in feeding. I try to make him "hunt" and search out his food by placing obstacles and fake vines and ground cover throughout the box. It's very interesting to watch him. He's extremely smart... at least much smarter than I ever would've thought. I figure if food is top priority on their list in the wild, why not stimulate them in captivity?

I'm the same way with mine. I hold the thawed mouse by the tail with some tweezers and wave it around the opening of her hide box. I then move the mouse around the tank touching it on the surface of her viv decorations, being careful not to get any of the substrate on it. I place it in a different location each time I feed her, so she doesn't get used to it being in once spot all the time. It is very interesting to watch her hunt. I have just re-arranged her tank with some different orniments, and she seemed a little confused when I fed her yesterday morning, but she just kept following the scent and found it after a few stops and sniffs (licks). It's cool watching her "Seek and Destroy" !!
 
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