CornNoobie
No longer a Noobie!
So here is a pic of my first handling session! Not the best pic, but at least there was contact!!
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1619/trim3rg0.jpg
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1619/trim3rg0.jpg
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First Handling
- Thread starter CornNoobie
- Start date
Jillie
Flake's mummy
The best thing to remember is there bite really does not hurt. in fact sometimes its a good thing to get a nibble then all your fears will be gone. secondly most hatchlins or even some oldies are skitish when approched in the tank but with kind consistent handling this usually wears of once they are out of the tank. also you mentioned when you left him alone after your first attempt he came out of his hidding. This sounds like he isn't really that scared just doesn't want to be handled at the moment. I think you did the right thing by handling him any way. Good luck with your new snake he looks an absoloute beauty in the pic xxJxx
CornNoobie
No longer a Noobie!
Today went a lot better, 2nd time handling, he tried to get away at first, but I managed to pick him up alot quicker than yesterday and he wound around my hands for a few minutes before I slowly let him slide off back into his tank. I feel lots better holding him now so thankyou to everyone for your advice. Just one quick question though, when I feed him, obviously I have to pick him up and put him into his separate feeding box, but when he has eaten, am I best to carefully put his feeding box into the tank and let him crawl out at his own will, or to carefully pick him up and place him back in the tank? I would of thought the first one would be best but would just like to know what you all think.
Thanks
Sam
0.0.1 Ghost !
Thanks
Sam
0.0.1 Ghost !
Eremita
and cats...
I've done both; either seems to work equally well. If you leave the container in there, realize that it might take a while for him to actually vacate it. Clyde sometimes just pokes his head all over the place checking things out first when I do it that way. He tends to hide much faster if I put him in by hand.
-Sean
-Sean
I'm currently feeding Eve in a spare 10-gallon tank, so I obviously can't just put the whole thing in her viv. What I do is I just wait an hour or so after she eats to make sure the lump has moved a good way down the length of her body, far from her mouth. Then I pick her up near the bump to support the heaviest part of her and let her crawl from my hand back onto her branches.
greenpython
New member
okay when you pick him up show him your flat hand near him and get your other hand scoop him up gently and slowly. and besides if it bites it wont hurt
CornNoobie
No longer a Noobie!
Just a quick update. I have been handling him now for very short periods for a couple of days, and already he is beginning to realise I dont want to eat him! He even let me pick him up without freaking out today! Today was also his first feeding time, and he let me pick him straight up to put him in his feeding box. He wolfed 2 pinkies down and within about 10 minutes I lowered the box into the tank and he crawled straight out. Hopefully, he digests them without any problems like he has done so far, and in 2-3 days time I can continue my bonding! Thankyou to everyone for your previous advice and reassurance!
Sam
Sam
kathylove
Pragmatic & Logical
I just got back from the Daytona expo yesterday and tried to answer your email, but it was returned to me for some reason. So I will post my FAQ on handling and taming babies (or any snakes) in addition to all the advice you have already received. Hope it helps!
Taming and Handling Baby Corns
Almost all baby snakes are nervous and high strung. They know in their genes that big animals are predators that want to eat them. The babies that didn't run or defend themselves didn't live to pass on their genes. If they can't run, they defend themselves, although their bites usually don't break the skin, or barely result in a couple of drops of blood - nothing as bad as a kitten playing too roughly.
But most babies settle down quickly with gentle handling. However, some of the okeetees will keep a bit of attitude. They may continue to strike or bite. I would guess about 15% of okeetees might continue to behave that way, and maybe 1 or 2% of all other baby corns might keep an attitude like that. It is hard to say when they are babies, since most start out that way. But if it is really important that they be extremely docile, I always recommend something other than an okeetee
I would suggest starting to handle them when they have had 2 - 3 days to digest their meals and you can't see any bulges at all. If you handle them for about 10 - 30 minutes, more than once on those days just before the next feeding, even better. Usually, they will be pretty wild for the first several minutes while they think you are getting ready to eat them. Hold them over the cage or a garbage can for the first few minutes. Both the exercise and the excitement combine to make them "go" when you first start handling them. When they get older, they will only be eating once per week and won't be so excitable, so you won't get the same reaction. After several minutes, they will probably be emptied out.
If you are worried that the baby might escape when you are unfamiliar with handling it, then just handle it over the top of the cage (or some kind of box that he can't get out of) the first few times. Then if he wriggles away or you accidentally drop him, he will be right in the cage. After the first few times, you will begin to understand how he moves and you won't need to handle him over the safety of the cage any longer.
If you pick babies up at all, it is important to keep holding them long enough for them to stop struggling and to relax. It is important that each session end on a positive note. That is, the snake has relaxed for several minutes and is not struggling or trying to bite. After the snake has emptied itself over the cage or over a garbage can, then sit down for a few minutes with him. Hold fairly tightly when he struggles, but relax your grip when he relaxes, tightening again if he starts to get a little crazy. They are not the smartest animals, but if you are consistent, they will learn:
1. They won't get eaten.
2. They won't get to go back home until they "behave" themselves.
3. The more calm they are, the looser your grip will be.
Don't worry if it strikes or bites the first few weeks. It will likely get used to you soon. But don't put it back in the cage if it "misbehaves" - wait until it is being quiet. No point in teaching it to bite or strike by giving it what it wants (to go in the security of its cage) when it is acting in a way YOU don't want!
If you have ever kept and trained dogs, the principles are the same. Snakes just don't learn quite as quickly as dogs, but they do learn.
Taming and Handling Baby Corns
Almost all baby snakes are nervous and high strung. They know in their genes that big animals are predators that want to eat them. The babies that didn't run or defend themselves didn't live to pass on their genes. If they can't run, they defend themselves, although their bites usually don't break the skin, or barely result in a couple of drops of blood - nothing as bad as a kitten playing too roughly.
But most babies settle down quickly with gentle handling. However, some of the okeetees will keep a bit of attitude. They may continue to strike or bite. I would guess about 15% of okeetees might continue to behave that way, and maybe 1 or 2% of all other baby corns might keep an attitude like that. It is hard to say when they are babies, since most start out that way. But if it is really important that they be extremely docile, I always recommend something other than an okeetee
I would suggest starting to handle them when they have had 2 - 3 days to digest their meals and you can't see any bulges at all. If you handle them for about 10 - 30 minutes, more than once on those days just before the next feeding, even better. Usually, they will be pretty wild for the first several minutes while they think you are getting ready to eat them. Hold them over the cage or a garbage can for the first few minutes. Both the exercise and the excitement combine to make them "go" when you first start handling them. When they get older, they will only be eating once per week and won't be so excitable, so you won't get the same reaction. After several minutes, they will probably be emptied out.
If you are worried that the baby might escape when you are unfamiliar with handling it, then just handle it over the top of the cage (or some kind of box that he can't get out of) the first few times. Then if he wriggles away or you accidentally drop him, he will be right in the cage. After the first few times, you will begin to understand how he moves and you won't need to handle him over the safety of the cage any longer.
If you pick babies up at all, it is important to keep holding them long enough for them to stop struggling and to relax. It is important that each session end on a positive note. That is, the snake has relaxed for several minutes and is not struggling or trying to bite. After the snake has emptied itself over the cage or over a garbage can, then sit down for a few minutes with him. Hold fairly tightly when he struggles, but relax your grip when he relaxes, tightening again if he starts to get a little crazy. They are not the smartest animals, but if you are consistent, they will learn:
1. They won't get eaten.
2. They won't get to go back home until they "behave" themselves.
3. The more calm they are, the looser your grip will be.
Don't worry if it strikes or bites the first few weeks. It will likely get used to you soon. But don't put it back in the cage if it "misbehaves" - wait until it is being quiet. No point in teaching it to bite or strike by giving it what it wants (to go in the security of its cage) when it is acting in a way YOU don't want!
If you have ever kept and trained dogs, the principles are the same. Snakes just don't learn quite as quickly as dogs, but they do learn.
CornNoobie
No longer a Noobie!
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for your reply!
Ive had him for a week now, so have managed to handle him a couple of times now. Today, which was 3 days since his feed, he let me pick him up with out any signs of being scared, and seemed to happily slide across my hands and arms and up my t-shirt! All is going well now thankfully, thankyou for you response, its greatly appreciated.
Sam
Thanks for your reply!
Ive had him for a week now, so have managed to handle him a couple of times now. Today, which was 3 days since his feed, he let me pick him up with out any signs of being scared, and seemed to happily slide across my hands and arms and up my t-shirt! All is going well now thankfully, thankyou for you response, its greatly appreciated.
Sam