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HELP last question (maybe lol) about my auto timer for daylight/night

G

Glock23

SMR SG Corn Snake "Rogue"
ok im thinking 6 am to 6 pm is day
do i want the basking bulb on all day and do i want it temp controled with a temp control unit like the red one?


6pm to 6 am is night.

do I want the red inferred bulb on all night??

i have a repti therm UTH.


Please advise me so i do this right for my corn "Rogue" :)
 
You're using a UTH for heat, so I'm confused as to why you're using lights. Your animal will get all the heat he needs from this heat source and since your corn will most likely be in his hide during the day, he certainly doesn't need a basking light.

You'll be best off monitoring the UTH to stay around 85 on the warm side and forgetting the lights.

My $.02.
 
Glock23 said:
ok im thinking 6 am to 6 pm is day
do i want the basking bulb on all day and do i want it temp controled with a temp control unit like the red one?
6pm to 6 am is night.
do I want the red inferred bulb on all night??
i have a repti therm UTH.
Please advise me so i do this right for my corn "Rogue"
Click to expand...
Unless the light is your heat source, you don't need it at all. My snakes have lights on them, but that is for MY benefit, so I can see and enjoy them. Mine are timed from 8pm to 11 pm, the hours I am most likely to be there.
 
when the IR light is on the temp in the 40 gal tank is 85

right now the tank says 79.7 F with 54% humidity

the probe i have under the substrate says 81.4


what im trying to do is simulate higher temps during a normal day ie noon ect
my tank with every thing on is 85 like said above with it all on..

But with it off the substrate is reading 81.4 and the digi tank thermometer is reading 79.7 F

the cool side says just below the 80's but i cant tell how much yet..

i'll try to get some picutres of my setup so you can see.



I plan to make a dayly notation of the tank temps ect. I hope my snake will benefit from all my work :grin01:
 
If your warm side is reading 81.4 on the substrate all you need to do is bump up your UTH a touch. Do you have a thermostat? If not I would recommend getting one of those and getting rid of the light all together. As was stated before your snake doesn't really need light for it's health. Good luck with your new baby and dont' worry about asking questions. That's what this place is for. BTW, Like the name, that's what we named our latest snake we added to our collection.
 
snakemom1961 said:
If your warm side is reading 81.4 on the substrate all you need to do is bump up your UTH a touch. Do you have a thermostat? If not I would recommend getting one of those and getting rid of the light all together. As was stated before your snake doesn't really need light for it's health. Good luck with your new baby and dont' worry about asking questions. That's what this place is for. BTW, Like the name, that's what we named our latest snake we added to our collection.
Click to expand...


thanks I named Rogue after my fav book series and my online gamer handle i've used for 16 years "Rogue Warrior"

:cheers:
 
Not sure if this will help but this is what I do. I bought a big timer for 34 dollars at petsmart. Its has on it, 4 plug in spots for on all the time, it has 2 plug in shots for only on at the day time, and 2 more for only on at night. I have hooked up 2 of my snakes Viv's to this. I out their lamps in the day time slots and set the little round thing to the time I want it to turn on and off. Then I put their UTH's in the on all the time slots. So it pretty much does all of the work for that. And all of that only takes up one regular slot in my house.

Now with the new snake I put her lamp in the regular slot of the house so I have to do hers manually. I then put her UTH in the slot with the other UTH's. Its pretty confusing but it may help. Now Ill see if I can find it on the internet for you.

EDIT: Found it... http://www.petsmart.com/global/prod...69&itemNo=51&Nao=48&In=Reptile&N=2030048&Ne=2
 
http://tinyurl.com/2f3pt2

This is where I got mine. He shipped it the same day. It's worth saving $20 not to have the instant gratification of buying it at a petstore.

Nanci

You can find the digital one like Dave has for $2 more.
 
Oops, Nanci wins. That is the exact one I have. I didn't even realise the other one was digital. Looks pretty cool though.
 
Have to say Glock, I admire your attention to detail but I think you may be going a bit overboard here.

If you have a UTH (on a stat), then your Corns don't need lights. In the wild, they don't bask as they are mosly active at dawn/dusk/night when the sun is at its weakest or not there at all.

Doubtless a hot spot is appreciated when they've just eaten, but they can get the desired effect from spending some time down the warm end of the tank.

I think if you just get the UTH under control with a stat, then you'll have a good setup.
 
IR light is working tank 86 and holding - 33% humid (dunno about that yet ie the humid)


under the substrate it reads 80.9 and holding


ok im going to bed got work will update on temps tonight hopefully the damnn tank wont catch on fire with that IR light on the whole day lol...
 
hopefully the damnn tank wont catch on fire with that IR light on the whole day
Click to expand...

Really, just switch the light off. The snake doesn't need it and if you seriously think it's a fire risk, then you're both better off without.
 
bitsy said:
Have to say Glock, I admire your attention to detail but I think you may be going a bit overboard here.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree. Just keep a warm side and a cool side (with hides in both spots) and the snake will go where it needs to go to be comfortable. You might need to use a small lamp to bump up ambient air temps in the winter, and this can be plugged into the same thermostat you use for the UTH (the ZooMed 500 has two outlets). There's really no need to simulate diurnal temperature changes to this level of detail. The temperature in your house probably drops at night, and this will lead to a corresponding drop on the cool side of the tank anyway. Have a look at Don's excellent care sheet at SMR--I think he suggests something like this. It's great that you're erring on side of keeping the temps perfect, but trying to maintain different optimal temperature points at different times of day is probably unnecessarily complicated. It's probably better for the snake--and your own sanity--to keep things simple. As with most things, the more complicated you make something, the more likely it is that problems will arise. Trying to automate a temperature shift twice a day might increase the possibility of a failure in the system that could lead to undesirable extremes of heat or cold. And remember that your efforts to regulate temperatures in the tank are always going to be affected by temperature changes in the house to some degree or another--another reason to keep things simple.

It's really great that you're trying to get things just right before your snake arrives--your snake will thank you for it.
 
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