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Lighting?

Baller99k

Baller99k

New member
I just got a baby ghost corn.

I only got a heat pad (for a 10-20 GL tank) even though I have a 30 gallon tank. The guy said it would be enough.
true?

He also said I would need a UV light. Do I?

I did not get one yet, so I just installed the heat pad.
It is kind of dark where he is in my room, and you can't see the tank well...

Is it bad for me to put a desk light next to the aquarium? Even though it would obviously be really bright if you looked into it?


Please help, this is my first post, thanks.
 
Welcome
No, you do not need a light. I don't know if it's "bad" to put a light there, but I'll bet your snake won't care for it. Try using it as indirect lighting?
You could use a thermometer to read the temp on the warm side, over the heater.
If you get a thermometer with a remote probe and put it over the heater you will probably find that the heater gets over 100°F. You will need some way to regulate the heater. There are electronic thermostats made for that, some use rheostats(dimmer switches), I've got a mechanical thermostat.
Do you have a couple of hides? Put one on the heater side and one on the unheated side so your snake can go to the temp it needs.
Check out the stickies at the top of the forums, particularly the Husbandry and Basic Care.
Ask any questions you can't find an answer to, but it's probably all here.
 
Thanks a lot man, ya i have a half-pipe wood thing on the heat side, and I'm gonna get a hide for the cool side..

I've heard of the risk of snake digging down and getting burned on the glass...So I am a little worried about that.

But I guess if i find out my pad can keep it around 80 degrees, I don't need a heat lamp.
 
I guess the first thing I would get is a thermometer with a probe to measure the temp at the heater. I have two small heaters under my tank that got up to 115°F when I was setting it up.
 
Well so far he's been all around my tank. He would be staying on the hot side in his hide if he were too cold right?

But I should still get the temp of the air inside his hide correct? and make sure it's 80?
 
Baller99k said:
Well so far he's been all around my tank. He would be staying on the hot side in his hide if he were too cold right?
Click to expand...

It is important that your snake has a hot and cold side to choose from. Your snake will regulate his temp from there.

Baller99k said:
But I should still get the temp of the air inside his hide correct? and make sure it's 80?
Click to expand...

No, make sure the glass temp on the hot side gets to the correct temp. Your snake needs belly heat to help aid in digestion.
 
You don't need a heat lamp, you can use one if you want to feel safe however, but it's not needed. A UTH is important, lamps are not. It's more personal preference than anything.
 
Ok, so I need to get the temperature of the actual glass that is touching the heat pad? That's definitely gonna be hotter than 80, what do I do at that point, I don't want my snake touching glass that hot.

Also, the guy said I need UV light for the snake, but everyone else says I don't, so..?

And, If I wanted a light so that I could see him better at times, what do ya'll recommend that wouldn't bother the snake?
 
I also had a pet store guy tell me that I would need a UV lamp. He suggested on a timer to simulate daytime. But will my snake get that day/night thing if he's near a window? I just can't even see how I would set up all this suggested lighting.

I do know I personally need heat lamps in addition to the UTH... they may not need to be on all year long, but certainly in the winter. My ambient room temp is not warm enough for the "cool" side of the viv.
 
I could swear I remember reading that a UV light is bad for Amel/Albino snakes, and not necessary for any snakes.
 
Snakes
Few snakes are thought to require ultraviolet lighting, at present, since vitamin D3 from the diet is almost certainly adequate for most species. However, some authors believe that Diamond Pythons (Morelia spilota spilota) 37, Indigo Snakes (Drymarchon corais) 39, some aquatic species 11, the insectivorous Rough and Smooth Green Snakes (Opheodrys aestivus and O. vernalis) and other arboreal, diurnal snakes 26,38 may benefit from low levels of UVB light in captivity. Snakes are sensitive to excessively bright artificial light, however, and this must be avoided.
Click to expand...
from http://www.uvguide.co.uk/whatreptilesneed.htm
 
Just to clarify, no, you do not need a UV light. However, you do need a thermostat to regulate your heat mat (so that he doesn't burn himself when he burrows - like you said). You'll need to get a digital thermometer with a probe also so that you can measure your temperatures accurately.
 
I also had a pet store guy tell me that I would need a UV lamp. He suggested on a timer to simulate daytime. But will my snake get that day/night thing if he's near a window? I just can't even see how I would set up all this suggested lighting.
Click to expand...
Pet store guy was wrong. UV is vital for some reptiles, but Corns don't need it. In the wild, they only come out at times of low or no sunlight, so they have never evolved the dependency that some reptiles have.

As long as the room has natural sunlight, then your Corn will be fine. Just make sure the tank isn't in direct sunlight, as this can cause rapid and dangerous overheating.

I have also heard reliable anecdotal evidence that UV can cause blindness in Corns lacking darker pigments (like Snows and Amels), although I don't believe this has been tested or proven.

I do know I personally need heat lamps in addition to the UTH...
Click to expand...
That's incorrect as well. Either a heat lamp OR a UTH will be fine as a single heat source. Most people favour a UTH, as belly heat is required for proper digestion. Both at the same time will overheat a tank. You may need to review where and how you're measure the temperatures at the warm end, to make sure that you're getting an accurate reading.

Even an unregulated UTH on its own will give temps that are way above a Corn's safe maximum. I ran a test myself once and the surface temp of the mat reached 120 degrees in less than an hour. You need to use a UTH with a thermostat to stop the ground surface of the tank going over about 88 degrees.

they may not need to be on all year long, but certainly in the winter. My ambient room temp is not warm enough for the "cool" side of the viv.
Click to expand...
That doesn't really matter. As long as the Corn has access to temps in the tank in the required range, and it can move around them freely, then ambient temperature in the room is not significant.
 
Ok....just noticed how old this thread is. Ignore my reply.
Click to expand...
The original thread is elderly, but someone has now updated it with a new set of questions. Well worth answering, judging by the issues raised.
 
bitsy said:
That's incorrect as well. Either a heat lamp OR a UTH will be fine as a single heat source. Most people favour a UTH, as belly heat is required for proper digestion. Both at the same time will overheat a tank. You may need to review where and how you're measure the temperatures at the warm end, to make sure that you're getting an accurate reading.

Even an unregulated UTH on its own will give temps that are way above a Corn's safe maximum. I ran a test myself once and the surface temp of the mat reached 120 degrees in less than an hour. You need to use a UTH with a thermostat to stop the ground surface of the tank going over about 88 degrees.


That doesn't really matter. As long as the Corn has access to temps in the tank in the required range, and it can move around them freely, then ambient temperature in the room is not significant.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? My room is COLD in the winter. I thought that the cool side of the cage should be 70-75 degrees. I understand that I need a heat pad *regulated* to about 85 degrees on the warm side. But if my ambient room temp is about 60 degrees, will that be warm enough for the cool side of the cage? Are you saying that the heat from the heating pad will radiate over a bit?

I don't mind buying a heat lamp... pet guy suggested a low wattage (and of course a thermometer). It would be a heck of a lot cheaper then heating my entire house to a warmer temp!

Regarding the heat pad: do you need some kinda mat (reptile carpet) so that the snake isn't directly on the glass if he burrows into the substrate?

Thanks!
 
sorry for the confusion. should I have posted a new thread? I didn't want to post a new thread without reading the old ones first.
 
Are you sure? My room is COLD in the winter. I thought that the cool side of the cage should be 70-75 degrees. I understand that I need a heat pad *regulated* to about 85 degrees on the warm side. But if my ambient room temp is about 60 degrees, will that be warm enough for the cool side of the cage? Are you saying that the heat from the heating pad will radiate over a bit?
Click to expand...
As long as there are areas of the tank that are 70/75-85 degrees, then the Corn will move to the area that suits it. Just make sure you have enough hides.

I don't mind buying a heat lamp... pet guy suggested a low wattage (and of course a thermometer). It would be a heck of a lot cheaper then heating my entire house to a warmer temp!
Click to expand...
With all due respect, pet shop guy is trying to sell you some kit that you don't need. He has a living to make, but it doesn't sound like he knows lots about Corns. What he's told you so far seems to be generic "reptile" information, with little that's specific to Corns. You don't have to increase the heat in your house. Ambient temperatures outside the tank really don't reflect what goes on inside.

Regarding the heat pad: do you need some kinda mat (reptile carpet) so that the snake isn't directly on the glass if he burrows into the substrate?
Click to expand...
The trick is to ensure that any surface the snake can reach - even by burrowing - doesn't get above the ideal maximum. Position the thermostat probe on the tank floor immediately above the mat, then cover with an inch of substrate - most folks in the US use aspen, but here in the UK bark chips are easier to get. If you keep the floor of the tank at about 88 degrees, you should find the top of the substrate will be slightly lower - both places will be at a safe temperature.
 
exactly why i post here. I can tell the guys at the shop love their snakes, but they have several species.

well, i have several weeks, so I'll set up with just the heat pad, substrate, and a couple of thermometers and see what I get.
 
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