Okay....some I need to here from any mice breeders out there. I need your suggestions. I have 11 hatchlings on the way. I think I may keep all of them. I am also bidding on a pair of Lavenders from the Fauna Auction. I also have 2 adult normals, and an adult Anery, and a juvenile snow. Should I start breeding mice. I can tell it is going to be getting pretty expensive soon to buy them. I am getting a rack system from Boaphile plastics for my adults, and that will hold up to 12 adults, and I already have a smaller shoebox size rack for the Juveniles. I was thinking I could turn the 3 Aquariums I have my adults in now, and use them for a breeding colony in the shed. I have never done this, so I need some reccomendations. Thanks! -Don
-
Hello!
Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.
Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....
Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.
Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.
Mice breeding colony
- Thread starter CAcornguy
- Start date
CornCrazy
What's one more???
I keep a couple of tanks of mice in order to have some live pinkies for difficult feeders. If it weren't for that, however, then I would probably not have any. I have 26 snakes right now, and it think it is cheaper for me to buy my mice in bulk through RodentPro. It helps with the cost if there is someone close to you who also wants to order from them, and then you can split the shipping which runs around $20.00. It is still cheaper than buying at a pet store even if you have to pay the full shipping costs, though.
I believe the mice pinkies are 18 cents each. That's $18.00 plus $20.00 shipping for 100 pinkies. That comes out to about 38 cents each. The pet stores where I live sell pinkies for 99 cents each! That means I save around $61 by buying in bulk, and that is not even figuring in tax at the pet store. It's even cheaper if you buy more than 100 mice because the shipping would be divided among more mice. There is also a discount if 500 or more mice are purchased.
I believe the mice pinkies are 18 cents each. That's $18.00 plus $20.00 shipping for 100 pinkies. That comes out to about 38 cents each. The pet stores where I live sell pinkies for 99 cents each! That means I save around $61 by buying in bulk, and that is not even figuring in tax at the pet store. It's even cheaper if you buy more than 100 mice because the shipping would be divided among more mice. There is also a discount if 500 or more mice are purchased.
Melinie
Once Bitten, Less Shy...
I agree....
Between cleaning (empty 3 tanks, scrub 3 tanks, rinse 3 tanks, dry 3 tanks, replace bedding in 3 tanks, at least once a week) and feeding, and cleaning and refilling water bottles, and culling and killing and freezing every week, so you have all the right sizes you need for all the sizes and preferences of your snakes (don't feed live if it's larger than a fuzzy), and the smell!!!
It's SO much easier to BUY mouse-sicles!
Not to mention, that this is all time you could be spending just sitting and enjoying your snakes, socializing your hatchlings, etc..
I, too, keep two small mouse colonies to provide live pinks for difficult hatchlings, and to freeze off fuzzies and hoppers for when new moms have delicate tummies after laying, and for growing up any "keepers" I produce.
This is mainly because the nearest store to me that keeps feeder mice is a 45-minute drive.
But I really dislike the chores of keeping mice.
Avoid it at all costs.
If you have one or two difficult hatchlings, you'd be better off just picking up a couple of pinks from a local store, and really working on switching them over to frozen/thaw.
Also consider that mice DO require certain amenities.
Good food, so you are feeding your snakes a healthy, nutritious meal.
Clean, roomy surroundings, so your snake is not eating something covered in it's own 'leavings'.
Climate control, so they don't all CROAK from too much heat or too much cold. They really don't do heat as well as some might think.
Just my own thoughts on the matter.
Between cleaning (empty 3 tanks, scrub 3 tanks, rinse 3 tanks, dry 3 tanks, replace bedding in 3 tanks, at least once a week) and feeding, and cleaning and refilling water bottles, and culling and killing and freezing every week, so you have all the right sizes you need for all the sizes and preferences of your snakes (don't feed live if it's larger than a fuzzy), and the smell!!!
It's SO much easier to BUY mouse-sicles!
Not to mention, that this is all time you could be spending just sitting and enjoying your snakes, socializing your hatchlings, etc..
I, too, keep two small mouse colonies to provide live pinks for difficult hatchlings, and to freeze off fuzzies and hoppers for when new moms have delicate tummies after laying, and for growing up any "keepers" I produce.
This is mainly because the nearest store to me that keeps feeder mice is a 45-minute drive.
But I really dislike the chores of keeping mice.
Avoid it at all costs.
If you have one or two difficult hatchlings, you'd be better off just picking up a couple of pinks from a local store, and really working on switching them over to frozen/thaw.
Also consider that mice DO require certain amenities.
Good food, so you are feeding your snakes a healthy, nutritious meal.
Clean, roomy surroundings, so your snake is not eating something covered in it's own 'leavings'.
Climate control, so they don't all CROAK from too much heat or too much cold. They really don't do heat as well as some might think.
Just my own thoughts on the matter.
moreptiles
New member
Let me give you an opposing opinion.
You will have a rather large group of snakes, so you will probably need anywhere from 15 to 30 mice or more per week depending on how aggressively you want to feed the hatchlings. Frozen mice will cost around $.50 each in bulk (assuming a mix of pinkies, fuzzies, hoppers, and adults).
I personally have a home made mouse setup with small rubbermaid containers with holes burned in for ventilation with a soldering iron. Each has a water bottle that fits in through the top and a metal container with 1/2 inch square lattice openings that gives an automatic feeder. Total cost of the setup is about $7.00 So every day I just drop in about 10 rodent pellets. I use shredded aspen for bedding. With 1.4 mice in each cage, I get about 7 mice per week on average from each cage. Total cleanup and maintenance time is about 3-4 minutes per day per cage. Cost per feeder mouse (pinks, fuzzies, hoppers and weanlings) is less than $.10 each.
Mice breed best at 75 F, so in the winter you need a heater to keep them going. In the summer, you also may need an a/c or else just freeze extra in the spring to get you through the heat of the summer when the mice stop producing.
Bottom line, if you hate cleaning up mice cages, then just buy frozen in bulk. If you enjoy breeding mice and seeing the different morphs that come out, and like to tinker with making you own accessories, then you might consider raising your own mice.
Mark
You will have a rather large group of snakes, so you will probably need anywhere from 15 to 30 mice or more per week depending on how aggressively you want to feed the hatchlings. Frozen mice will cost around $.50 each in bulk (assuming a mix of pinkies, fuzzies, hoppers, and adults).
I personally have a home made mouse setup with small rubbermaid containers with holes burned in for ventilation with a soldering iron. Each has a water bottle that fits in through the top and a metal container with 1/2 inch square lattice openings that gives an automatic feeder. Total cost of the setup is about $7.00 So every day I just drop in about 10 rodent pellets. I use shredded aspen for bedding. With 1.4 mice in each cage, I get about 7 mice per week on average from each cage. Total cleanup and maintenance time is about 3-4 minutes per day per cage. Cost per feeder mouse (pinks, fuzzies, hoppers and weanlings) is less than $.10 each.
Mice breed best at 75 F, so in the winter you need a heater to keep them going. In the summer, you also may need an a/c or else just freeze extra in the spring to get you through the heat of the summer when the mice stop producing.
Bottom line, if you hate cleaning up mice cages, then just buy frozen in bulk. If you enjoy breeding mice and seeing the different morphs that come out, and like to tinker with making you own accessories, then you might consider raising your own mice.
Mark
Is there any way you could get a picture of the setup that you are talking about ? I'd be really interested in being able to see that. Although I am not close, at this point, to having to breed mice myself, I may in the future, as I really want to get up in the high numbers with my snakes. Thanks =)
8Corn*Freak8
New member
Whenever i feed
I am probably gonna just buy them from a store 10 mins. away from me. i will make a trip out there once or twice every two weeks to get some feeding mice. If i freeze them and then one day i dont have time to freeze them or just wanna feed it a live pinky or fuzzie will it shock him that its not frozen/cold/dead? Cuz if it will i will just freeze em'
I am probably gonna just buy them from a store 10 mins. away from me. i will make a trip out there once or twice every two weeks to get some feeding mice. If i freeze them and then one day i dont have time to freeze them or just wanna feed it a live pinky or fuzzie will it shock him that its not frozen/cold/dead? Cuz if it will i will just freeze em'
Melinie
Once Bitten, Less Shy...
Me, too.....
My attempt with the plastic containment systems was a big flop, too.
The little buggers are chewing machines. And FAST about it as well.
I know what Mark is talking about.
I was immediately drawn into seeing how quickly I could solidify a certain gene in the mice, and make it breed true.
I had Lilacs, Silver Satins, White Satins, Dalmatians, Blue-Fawns, and Rexes! Those curly/wavy coated mice were just adorable!
I even developed two strains of my own that threw true within a very short time.
I had a Blue Panda line, and a Beltie line.
And, yes, my daughter and I have fallen for more than one of the little guys, and raised them as pets.
But my original intent was to create less-expensive SNAKE FOOD!
And when I suddenly looked around, and had EIGHT tanks teaming with mice, as well as a freezer full of "micro meat", and was spending WAY too much time cleaning up after them, I had to drag myself back to reality.
The male in one of my colonies now is my last living 'hand-tame' mouse, "Strawberry". One of the girls in his harem is "Beltie", the original female that proved to throw true "Belties" in Blue and Lilac.
The male in my other colony is my Blue Panda producer.
They are getting old, and I will not breed for specific coat types, patterns, or colors once they are gone.
I'd rather spend the time producing 'Hypos and Lavenders and Amels, Oh My!'. (Those of you old enough to get that are grimacing and shaking your heads. )
My attempt with the plastic containment systems was a big flop, too.
The little buggers are chewing machines. And FAST about it as well.
I know what Mark is talking about.
I was immediately drawn into seeing how quickly I could solidify a certain gene in the mice, and make it breed true.
I had Lilacs, Silver Satins, White Satins, Dalmatians, Blue-Fawns, and Rexes! Those curly/wavy coated mice were just adorable!
I even developed two strains of my own that threw true within a very short time.
I had a Blue Panda line, and a Beltie line.
And, yes, my daughter and I have fallen for more than one of the little guys, and raised them as pets.
But my original intent was to create less-expensive SNAKE FOOD!
And when I suddenly looked around, and had EIGHT tanks teaming with mice, as well as a freezer full of "micro meat", and was spending WAY too much time cleaning up after them, I had to drag myself back to reality.
The male in one of my colonies now is my last living 'hand-tame' mouse, "Strawberry". One of the girls in his harem is "Beltie", the original female that proved to throw true "Belties" in Blue and Lilac.
The male in my other colony is my Blue Panda producer.
They are getting old, and I will not breed for specific coat types, patterns, or colors once they are gone.
I'd rather spend the time producing 'Hypos and Lavenders and Amels, Oh My!'. (Those of you old enough to get that are grimacing and shaking your heads.
)
CornCrazy
What's one more???
bmm
New member
ha
I am surprised to hear some of you have problems with plastic/rubbermaid caging.
I have used this same plastic caging (the exact same) for two-three years now. I have little to no chew damage, and 0 mice have escaped by chewing. Maybe I have a "good" line of non-chewers but I dunno. Many many many people told me "Um yeah your mice will be out of those within two weeks, I promise it" and it never happened. Here is a photo:
<img src="http://members.rogers.com/mattl/cage.jpg">
<img src="http://members.rogers.com/mattl/cages.jpg">
The mice are WORK. LOTS of WORK. I'd say double or TRIPLE the amount of work as the snakes themselves. But I live in an area where 1 adult feeder mouse costs over a 1 sometimes 3. Buying online doesn't work for me either for other reasons so I breed them.
Marisa
I am surprised to hear some of you have problems with plastic/rubbermaid caging.
I have used this same plastic caging (the exact same) for two-three years now. I have little to no chew damage, and 0 mice have escaped by chewing. Maybe I have a "good" line of non-chewers but I dunno. Many many many people told me "Um yeah your mice will be out of those within two weeks, I promise it" and it never happened. Here is a photo:
<img src="http://members.rogers.com/mattl/cage.jpg">
<img src="http://members.rogers.com/mattl/cages.jpg">
The mice are WORK. LOTS of WORK. I'd say double or TRIPLE the amount of work as the snakes themselves. But I live in an area where 1 adult feeder mouse costs over a 1 sometimes 3. Buying online doesn't work for me either for other reasons so I breed them.
Marisa
CowBoyWay
Cocked & Unlocked member
Odor Control Mice Bedding choices
I currently am using rabbit pellets and am happy with its excellent odor control properties as a mouse raising substrate,.
Rabbit Pellets and my drinking water recipe of 10 drops of G.S.E. and two teaspoons of Vanilla extract per gallon of charcoal filtered water, makes for minimal odiferous emanations for a long period of time.
Up to two weeks between changes. Once a week would be best.
Unsanitary mouse pellet build-up can become a problem before odor generally does. Works almost to good.
There are many choices in products available these days that have good odor control qualities, perhaps not as inexpensive as one might hope... So far Rabbit pellets have been winning the price/
convenience/ odor control effectiveness race for me.
The odor control qualities of aspen are mediocre, average, the standard from which we will compare here. It also happens to be, probably, the most commonly used substrate out there for mousee production.
There are numerous safe alternative beddings made from paper, recycled newspaper, grasses and other organic materials that the pet mice/ "rat people" are using.
The paper-based products are especially effective in that they inhibit the formation of ammonia, which helps keep odors under control. I have used carefresh in the past for mice but found the cost disagreeable although it worked well odor wise.
Of the paper-based beddings, Care Fresh is arguably the most popular.
It is created from wood pulp fibers that are too short to make paper, and is processed to the appearance and texture of shredded egg cartons. It is soft on the feet, making it a great choice for bedding.
"Care Fresh"
www.carefresh.ca
Recycled newspaper beddings such as Yesterday's News,
Crown Animal Bedding http://www.stutzman-environmental.com/crown.htm
and Bio-Flush are pelleted beddings that are extremely absorbant and very good at odor control.
"Critter Country" is a pelleted bedding made from wheat grass. The manufacturer claims that these pellets actually prevent the formation of ammonia.
"Gentle Touch" is made from aspen bark is 100% biodegradable and made without chemicals perfumes or additives. Gentle Touch pellets absorb up to 3 times their weight in water and effectively controls odor.
excellent odor control qualities,
reportedly.
"Good Mews"
Stutzman Environmental Products (503) 266-4610)
(Marketed mainly as a Cat Litter; shelved in cat section of most pet shops, many grocery stores.)
http://www.petluvers.com/goodmewscatlitter.html
"Yesterday's News"
Canbrands International Ltd. 1-800-267-5287 [email protected] Pellets made from recycled newspaper with an odor absorbing ingredient. Comes in regular pellets, and softer texture pellets. odor control mediocre, like shavings, I've read.
"Cell Sorb Plus"
Fangman Specialties (513) 752-4500 www.cell-sorb-plus.com
Soft pellets of recycled newspaper containing a non-toxic patented neutralizing mineral for excellent odor control. (zeolite, I believe)
"Kozy Korner Ferret Litter"
Sheppard & Greene 1-800-851-6661 These pellets made from recycled newspaper are treated with natural enzymes to help prevent odor.
"Bio-Flush"
Ampro Industries Inc. 1-800-632-1998 [email protected] Pellets made from recycled newspaper printed only with soy-ink. Contains baking soda.
Introducing the revolutionary rodent enrichment product, Shepherd Shack.
http://www.ssponline.com/shack.html
If you wish to use wood shavings as litter, hardwoods would be the best choice. hardwoods do not contain any harmful phenols.
7093
Harlan Shredded Aspen Laboratory Animal Bedding
Harlan's Aspen Bedding is manufactured from 100% Great Lakes Aspen wood used as a contact bedding for such small animals as mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, and guinea pigs.
It is not a by-product of some other manufacturing process.
It is manufactured from pure Aspen wood, specially for use as a contact bedding material from aged virgin timber.
Shop around for your best delivered prices.
I once met a guy who made the observation that his snakes did not like frozen mice.
They actually had to sit there for a while and thaw before they would eat them. hehe.
Now that I think about it, their aren't any directions printed on the mice. imho.
I currently am using rabbit pellets and am happy with its excellent odor control properties as a mouse raising substrate,.
Rabbit Pellets and my drinking water recipe of 10 drops of G.S.E. and two teaspoons of Vanilla extract per gallon of charcoal filtered water, makes for minimal odiferous emanations for a long period of time.
Up to two weeks between changes. Once a week would be best.
Unsanitary mouse pellet build-up can become a problem before odor generally does. Works almost to good.
There are many choices in products available these days that have good odor control qualities, perhaps not as inexpensive as one might hope... So far Rabbit pellets have been winning the price/
convenience/ odor control effectiveness race for me.
The odor control qualities of aspen are mediocre, average, the standard from which we will compare here. It also happens to be, probably, the most commonly used substrate out there for mousee production.
There are numerous safe alternative beddings made from paper, recycled newspaper, grasses and other organic materials that the pet mice/ "rat people" are using.
The paper-based products are especially effective in that they inhibit the formation of ammonia, which helps keep odors under control. I have used carefresh in the past for mice but found the cost disagreeable although it worked well odor wise.
Of the paper-based beddings, Care Fresh is arguably the most popular.
It is created from wood pulp fibers that are too short to make paper, and is processed to the appearance and texture of shredded egg cartons. It is soft on the feet, making it a great choice for bedding.
"Care Fresh"
www.carefresh.ca
Recycled newspaper beddings such as Yesterday's News,
Crown Animal Bedding http://www.stutzman-environmental.com/crown.htm
and Bio-Flush are pelleted beddings that are extremely absorbant and very good at odor control.
"Critter Country" is a pelleted bedding made from wheat grass. The manufacturer claims that these pellets actually prevent the formation of ammonia.
"Gentle Touch" is made from aspen bark is 100% biodegradable and made without chemicals perfumes or additives. Gentle Touch pellets absorb up to 3 times their weight in water and effectively controls odor.
excellent odor control qualities,
reportedly.
"Good Mews"
Stutzman Environmental Products (503) 266-4610)
(Marketed mainly as a Cat Litter; shelved in cat section of most pet shops, many grocery stores.)
http://www.petluvers.com/goodmewscatlitter.html
"Yesterday's News"
Canbrands International Ltd. 1-800-267-5287 [email protected] Pellets made from recycled newspaper with an odor absorbing ingredient. Comes in regular pellets, and softer texture pellets. odor control mediocre, like shavings, I've read.
"Cell Sorb Plus"
Fangman Specialties (513) 752-4500 www.cell-sorb-plus.com
Soft pellets of recycled newspaper containing a non-toxic patented neutralizing mineral for excellent odor control. (zeolite, I believe)
"Kozy Korner Ferret Litter"
Sheppard & Greene 1-800-851-6661 These pellets made from recycled newspaper are treated with natural enzymes to help prevent odor.
"Bio-Flush"
Ampro Industries Inc. 1-800-632-1998 [email protected] Pellets made from recycled newspaper printed only with soy-ink. Contains baking soda.
Introducing the revolutionary rodent enrichment product, Shepherd Shack.
http://www.ssponline.com/shack.html
If you wish to use wood shavings as litter, hardwoods would be the best choice. hardwoods do not contain any harmful phenols.
7093
Harlan Shredded Aspen Laboratory Animal Bedding
Harlan's Aspen Bedding is manufactured from 100% Great Lakes Aspen wood used as a contact bedding for such small animals as mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, and guinea pigs.
It is not a by-product of some other manufacturing process.
It is manufactured from pure Aspen wood, specially for use as a contact bedding material from aged virgin timber.
Shop around for your best delivered prices.
I once met a guy who made the observation that his snakes did not like frozen mice.
They actually had to sit there for a while and thaw before they would eat them. hehe.
Now that I think about it, their aren't any directions printed on the mice.
imho.
Last edited:
moreptiles
New member
mice chewing through rubbermaids
For those with bad exeriences with mice and rubbermaids, you just did not wait long enough. Although they started out chewing the cages, my mice eventually learned to not chew through the rubbermaid cages by themelves. Interestingly the next generations of mice are born programmed not to chew the cages. I have about 12 cages now with over 75 adult mice and not one of them will chew any of the plastic.
Genetics and behavior in mice can be fascinating.
Mark
For those with bad exeriences with mice and rubbermaids, you just did not wait long enough. Although they started out chewing the cages, my mice eventually learned to not chew through the rubbermaid cages by themelves. Interestingly the next generations of mice are born programmed not to chew the cages. I have about 12 cages now with over 75 adult mice and not one of them will chew any of the plastic.
Genetics and behavior in mice can be fascinating.
Mark
bmm
New member
moreptiles I tend to agree with you somewhat...I don't think they really "learn" but I believe something causes the chewing to happen in some cases but not others.
I believe mice going from a large habitrail or such will chew out quickly. I also belive mice fed softer or smaller foods chew more. Mine are fed a huge variety BUT they get large chunks of dry dog food. It takes them a lot of chewing just to eat let alone chew.
And I mean I even have a hole melted at mouse level for the water bottle....still no chew damage or escapes for two + years! Its totally weird.
bmm
I believe mice going from a large habitrail or such will chew out quickly. I also belive mice fed softer or smaller foods chew more. Mine are fed a huge variety BUT they get large chunks of dry dog food. It takes them a lot of chewing just to eat let alone chew.
And I mean I even have a hole melted at mouse level for the water bottle....still no chew damage or escapes for two + years! Its totally weird.
bmm
8Corn*Freak8
New member
aww
nice mice...too bad ur snakes gonna eat it! HA HA HA!!!
nice mice...too bad ur snakes gonna eat it! HA HA HA!!!
The BIG thing about chewing through cages (and believe me..any mouse can chew through plastic just like that) is if they are comfortable with the location where the cage is.
Mice are a prey species..their first and foremost concern is to feel secure. So if your plastic cage is out in the open the mouse will first try to dig down and then when that doesn't work he'll escape sideways..through the plastic.
Put the cages in a darker corner or even better, get one that isn't see-thru and you will probably have no more chewing problems because once they feel safe the mice move on to their other two priorities. Getting busy with the mousettes and eating.
The reason why the next generation will chew less or not at all is because they grew up in that spot and don't feel the need to relocate as much.
Mice are a prey species..their first and foremost concern is to feel secure. So if your plastic cage is out in the open the mouse will first try to dig down and then when that doesn't work he'll escape sideways..through the plastic.
Put the cages in a darker corner or even better, get one that isn't see-thru and you will probably have no more chewing problems because once they feel safe the mice move on to their other two priorities. Getting busy with the mousettes and eating.
The reason why the next generation will chew less or not at all is because they grew up in that spot and don't feel the need to relocate as much.