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new at this

jas7019

Jose s.
i was wondering when do the new hatchlings eat how long do i have to wait for them to eat
 

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wow thats weired i was just going to ask about the corn snake manual i just purchased by bill and kathy love i found one at my local pet store i go to he gave it to me for $5.00 is it really good and also i had confusion about what kind of corn snakes i had hatched and the books picture has 2 corn snakes coming out of their eggs one looks like the two that i got and they are anerythristic corns
 
Yes the book by Kathy & Bill Love is good, i got mine about 2 days ago so haven't read much, but what i have read is good & very informative.
Marg.
 
thats right thats for less complications right and the larger the snake the larger the clutch or is that just a myth
 
That's the maturity age, when their body can handle the stress...I don't believe the size of the female has anything to do with clutch sizes. Although it would make since that the healthier female would have healthy eggs, and she wouldn't have such a high chance of something happening to her during egg laying.
In a way, it's not much different than a human.....
 
the larger the snake the larger the clutch or is that just a myth

Myth as far as I know. Agree with highcolourcorns - size is much less relevant than the physical condition and health of the Corn. One of my smallest Corns laid a first clutch of 17 eggs, which is pretty good going.

Clutch size also has a lot to do with heredity and genes. If the female comes from a bloodline that tends to produce smaller clutches, then all the exercise/appropriate feeding/supplements in the world won't make her lay over the odds.

And yes, it's the Magic 3s for the guideline minimum breeding requirements. Applies to females, as they generally mature physically around aged 3. Males can be younger but need to be around the same size as the females so they can hold their own if mating gets rough.
 
3 years, 3 feet, and at least 300 grams. Weight is the most important.

Weight is FAR less important than physical conditioning. I would MUCH rather breed a 250gram female with solid muscle tone and superb physical condition than frumpy, fat 350gram momma that gets little exercise and has fatty deposits...
 
Weight is FAR less important than physical conditioning. I would MUCH rather breed a 250gram female with solid muscle tone and superb physical condition than frumpy, fat 350gram momma that gets little exercise and has fatty deposits...

I agree..I guess it came out sounding wrong, sorry. I had it correct in my head, just not typing it out!!! So to refrase myself, a HEALTHY 300 gram female would be perfect, but then one that is even 400 grams, but was powerfed(obese) with no muscle wouldn't be good. Sorry again for that coming out wrong. I plan on breeding my female this spring, and she will probably be just under 300 grams, but she's healthier than I am!!!!
 
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