Here's a copy/paste from my site of my feeding information for corns. I tried to write it so that it could be useful for the experienced, but easy for the beginer. I hope it helps:
FeedingFeeding corns is usually very simple and easy. Mice and rats are the usual diet fed to captive corns. I usually reserve feeding rats only to individuals over 4 feet in length. The general rule is to feed prey no more than one and a half times the snakes girth at the widest part. If in doubt it is always better to offer more, smaller prey items rather than something too large. A snake may eat a meal larger than they can handle only to regurgitate it later.
Hatchlings should be started on pinky mice; usually one offered every 5-7 days. Young snakes should continue to be fed every 5-7 days, with increasing quantities offered.
As the snake grows pinkies can be replaced with fuzzies, then hoppers, then weanlings, then small adult mice. Usually corns will stop eating when they are full. If you notice any regurgitation, reduce either, or both the size and quantities offered.
As the snake ages it will only need to be fed every 7-10 days. Adults (not in brumation or breeding) will sometimes go for a month or so without eating. This is not a concern as long as they are otherwise healthy, just continue to offer food regularly.
Some choose to feed live prey, while others choose pre-killed prey. The number one benefit of feeding pre-killed prey is that the prey can not harm your snake. Another benefit, if you purchase frozen rodents, is that you can ensure you always have a full supply of food for your snakes. Some people will end up with a snake that is a fussy eater, and will resort to feeding live prey. I have never found this to be necessary with corns, as there are many “tricks” to get stubborn corns to eat. (See my advanced care page for "tricks") Feeding live prey can kill your snake! All it takes is one bite from a mouse to sever the spine, or to cause a life threatening and costly infection!
The first rule, whether feeding live or pre-killed is to have a separate enclosure specifically designated for feeding. This serves a few purposes; the main thing is that the snake learns that it does not eat when it is in its cage, thus not lunging for your hand when you reach for it. A frequent mistake many snake owners make is handling the prey before handling the snake. Corns use scent as their primary sense to locate prey, if you smell like a mouse they will be more inclined to strike. However if the snake has learned that it does not eat in its cage, it will be less likely to strike at you. Also the more you handle your snake, the more accustomed it will become to you and handling. I prefer to remove the snake from its cage, put it in the feeding box, then introduce the prey. The “box” can be as simple as a plastic container with a few holes drilled in it. Just remember to wash and disinfect it after each feeding.
When feeding a frozen mouse it must be completely dethawed before offered to the snake. NEVER microwave a mouse! Microwaving will cause uneven heating, as well as destroy nutrients that the snake needs. My proven choice is to put the mouse in a “ziplock” baggie and soak it in hot water. Before feeding you will want to hold the mouse in your closed hand for a few seconds to ensure that it is completely thawed. Once you are assured the mouse is thawed and warm you can just drop it in the feeding box, and the snake will find it. Contrary to many beliefs snakes will not lunge and attack the prekilled prey. (Unless very hungry) They will smell it, and search for the head, then open their mouth to begin swallowing it. If a "show" is what you want, then try wiggling the prey with tongs, when the snake strikes, keep wiggling they pery for a few seconds, and the snake should coil around it.
The snake will slowly begin to swallow the pery; then hold its head up, then the throat muscles will begin to make rhythmic “S” patterns as it is swallowing. If feeding more than one prey item at a feeding now is when you should add the next item, unless you put all the mice in at once. You will notice the muscles contracting as the snake is continuing to swallow. I have noticed that when a snake has decided it is done eating it will try to find a way out of its feeding box, rather than look for more food. (Or in the case of some of my corns, they defecate when they are done eating!
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(Snakes are able to dislocate their jaw in order to swallow prey, this is completely normal. In most cases after the snake has finished eating you will notice it "yawning," that is just the snake re-aligning it's jaws.)
Once a snake is done eating it is best to gently put it back in its cage. Handling a snake that has just eaten can cause reguritation. Allow the snake at least a day or so to digest before handling again. A full snake will usually go to the warmest part of the enclosure, where the heat will aid in digestion.
