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Problem with Pinkies
- Thread starter branbuch
- Start date
Spirit
New member
Regurges are pretty serious so you'll want to get to the cause of them asap... but for now, your best bet to treat it is as below.
How are your temps? Try raising them a few degrees, and on the next feeding (14 days is a good wait), offer a SMALL pinky (as small as you can find), or even a pinkie head like blue suggested. You can make little cuts into the pinky (on the back and thighs) as well to help aid in digestion. This helps the snakes stomach acids bipass the skin and digest the mouse faster (aiding in better nutrition).
If there are no regurges, wait at least another week before offering the next meal, and again, make sure it's small. If all goes well you can slowly work your way back up to regular meals.
How are your temps? Try raising them a few degrees, and on the next feeding (14 days is a good wait), offer a SMALL pinky (as small as you can find), or even a pinkie head like blue suggested. You can make little cuts into the pinky (on the back and thighs) as well to help aid in digestion. This helps the snakes stomach acids bipass the skin and digest the mouse faster (aiding in better nutrition).
If there are no regurges, wait at least another week before offering the next meal, and again, make sure it's small. If all goes well you can slowly work your way back up to regular meals.
TripleMoonsExotic
I <3 Stripes!
I wouldn't wait 14 days for a hatchling. That would be fine for an adult corn, but not a baby. I would worry about the little guy not having enough calories stored up to survive.
Some reason for a regurge:
* Handling too soon after feeding
* Improper temperature gradient
* Another person/pet might be distrubing him
I actually have a hatchling Ruby-Eyed Ghost that will regurge if I feed her in a seperate container then place her back into her tub. What I've started doing with her is putting the deli cup I would usually feed her in directly into her tub without a lid. I haven't had a regurge since, thankfully.
Some reason for a regurge:
* Handling too soon after feeding
* Improper temperature gradient
* Another person/pet might be distrubing him
I actually have a hatchling Ruby-Eyed Ghost that will regurge if I feed her in a seperate container then place her back into her tub. What I've started doing with her is putting the deli cup I would usually feed her in directly into her tub without a lid. I haven't had a regurge since, thankfully.
Parasites can cause regurgitation. I worm every snake I get. Even from reputable dealers.
Over the course of the snakes lifetime it can easily be exposed to parasites and ingest them and have them build up in them. Conscientiously keeping the cage clean and keeping the snake from contacting feces or fecal remnents is mandatory to gain control over reinfestation and parasite build up in captive snakes. Any new snake you bring in, even if housed separately, can introduce parasites. A snake you have handled at a friends house, herp club meeting, show or conference can share the same. You handle it, there's fecal dust on it or in its cage. You forget to wash your hands, fecal dust or other contamination is on your shirt sleeves, then you handle another snake, and transfer the resistant parasite eggs to your other snake(s) etc. :awcrap: :bomb:
Live, not frozen, prey can act as vectors, introducing parasites into your snakes.
It is an acceptable and even recommended husbandry practice to worm new snakes. Captive snakes can build up unnaturally heavy parasite loads simply due to the captive conditions. Like being in regular contact with fecal dust or buildup of stools.
My two cents worth. Thanks
Over the course of the snakes lifetime it can easily be exposed to parasites and ingest them and have them build up in them. Conscientiously keeping the cage clean and keeping the snake from contacting feces or fecal remnents is mandatory to gain control over reinfestation and parasite build up in captive snakes. Any new snake you bring in, even if housed separately, can introduce parasites. A snake you have handled at a friends house, herp club meeting, show or conference can share the same. You handle it, there's fecal dust on it or in its cage. You forget to wash your hands, fecal dust or other contamination is on your shirt sleeves, then you handle another snake, and transfer the resistant parasite eggs to your other snake(s) etc. :awcrap: :bomb:
Live, not frozen, prey can act as vectors, introducing parasites into your snakes.
It is an acceptable and even recommended husbandry practice to worm new snakes. Captive snakes can build up unnaturally heavy parasite loads simply due to the captive conditions. Like being in regular contact with fecal dust or buildup of stools.
My two cents worth. Thanks
Thanks for all the advice. How do I go about worming him? The only way I know of that he could have gotten parasites would be from before we bought him. He was in a group of a bunch of hatchlings. Since then he hasn't been in contact with other snakes nor have I. His cage is clean. Each time he leaves feces I take it out and the bark around it.