-
Hello!
Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.
Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....
Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.
Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.
Questions about using room heat
- Thread starter bthomas
- Start date
MysticExotics
(formerly NWHeather)
Honestly? I would not be comfortable with that setup.
I would worry that the lowest tubs wouldn't be quite warm enough for digestion, and I wouldn't want the top tubs being consistently that warm.
My oil core heater has a thermostat, but I don't use it. I use the piggyback t-stat setup.
I would worry that the lowest tubs wouldn't be quite warm enough for digestion, and I wouldn't want the top tubs being consistently that warm.
My oil core heater has a thermostat, but I don't use it. I use the piggyback t-stat setup.
MysticExotics
(formerly NWHeather)
Yes, I think it would be better/safer to get a heater without an internal t-stat, and use your own.
For piggy backing, you plug one into the heat source, with the temp range you want.
Then, instead of plugging that t-stat into the wall/power source, you plug it into another t-stat, with a couple degrees more of a temp fluctuation (not sure if my explanation makes sense).
If the one directly connected to the heat source fails, the backup t-stat keeps it from over heating.
For piggy backing, you plug one into the heat source, with the temp range you want.
Then, instead of plugging that t-stat into the wall/power source, you plug it into another t-stat, with a couple degrees more of a temp fluctuation (not sure if my explanation makes sense).
If the one directly connected to the heat source fails, the backup t-stat keeps it from over heating.
Yeah that makes sense. That's what I thought u were talking about, just making sure.
Do you think just a basic space heater would work or is there anything special I should look for? It's a fairly small room so would something like this be sufficient?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-Cz448-Standard-Oscillating-Heater-fan/33304985
I have a couple cheap on/off thermostats and also a vivarium electronics thermostat I could use with it
Do you think just a basic space heater would work or is there anything special I should look for? It's a fairly small room so would something like this be sufficient?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-Cz448-Standard-Oscillating-Heater-fan/33304985
I have a couple cheap on/off thermostats and also a vivarium electronics thermostat I could use with it
MysticExotics
(formerly NWHeather)
Check Lowe's (if you have one) for the oil core radiant heater. They're in the same price range. The one I have turns off if tipped over.
My t-stats are Ranco and Johnson, from reptile basics.
If I were to order one now, I'd go with herpstat
My t-stats are Ranco and Johnson, from reptile basics.
If I were to order one now, I'd go with herpstat
This is the only one I can find in that price range
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Optimus-700-Watt-Electric-Portable-Oil-Filled-Radiator-Heater/46470013
Next up would be this one
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pelonis-Digital-Oil-Filled-Heater-Black/45626152
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Optimus-700-Watt-Electric-Portable-Oil-Filled-Radiator-Heater/46470013
Next up would be this one
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pelonis-Digital-Oil-Filled-Heater-Black/45626152
daddio207
THUG FROG !
I answered the rest of your questions up there too btw
Sorry for asking questions and then disappearing. My modem kept disconnecting then bit the dust.
I did have some input since I've done room heating a few different ways including Heathers.
Now that my modem is replaced I'm off to the beach
daddio207
THUG FROG !
I was a bit conflicted every time I put some thought to room heating. I realized the reason why is because I keep so many species of snakes plus lizards and amphibians. Some of them requiring different environmental controls from others.
When I had my pet store I had a 600-800 Square room for Herps. I kept the central heat set at 78-82 and supplemented individuals with lights or mats that required basking or hot spots higher than the room temp. I would drop the temps at night to 74-78 unless it was feeding day.
At home in a 120 sq ft room I heated it with a heater that sounds like the same one that MysticExotics is useing. At that time I kept only species of snakes that had similar requirements in it. I kept other herps that needed basking spots in other rooms. Since moving I now keep all in one room which plays havoc at times keeping each at proper temps. For about 8+/- weeks every summer I turn off my racks and the room fluctuates from 80 to 86 with no ill effects heated mainly by the basking lights for lizards.
Heating rooms where all the animals similar requirements has been done for years with success. All the big breeders do it but if they do more than one Order or Sub-Order of Reptilia then they use separate rooms.
All that being said what is best for a keeper isn't best for the animal. Thermoregulation is an important part of Ectotherms.
Personally I would modify your racks for your snakes and not heat the room. If you do decide to heat the room then Heathers system is a good one to use. I would suggest having a backup plan for any snake that might be having an issue with it though. If a snake develops a URI from being to cold or a snake that is stressed and over active from being to hot then you would want to remove it from the room. I like keeping my hatchlings around incubation temps for a few weeks or so after hatching so a steady room temp works for them anybody older I prefer giving them the option of thermoregulating.
Just my rambling thoughts
When I had my pet store I had a 600-800 Square room for Herps. I kept the central heat set at 78-82 and supplemented individuals with lights or mats that required basking or hot spots higher than the room temp. I would drop the temps at night to 74-78 unless it was feeding day.
At home in a 120 sq ft room I heated it with a heater that sounds like the same one that MysticExotics is useing. At that time I kept only species of snakes that had similar requirements in it. I kept other herps that needed basking spots in other rooms. Since moving I now keep all in one room which plays havoc at times keeping each at proper temps. For about 8+/- weeks every summer I turn off my racks and the room fluctuates from 80 to 86 with no ill effects heated mainly by the basking lights for lizards.
Heating rooms where all the animals similar requirements has been done for years with success. All the big breeders do it but if they do more than one Order or Sub-Order of Reptilia then they use separate rooms.
All that being said what is best for a keeper isn't best for the animal. Thermoregulation is an important part of Ectotherms.
Personally I would modify your racks for your snakes and not heat the room. If you do decide to heat the room then Heathers system is a good one to use. I would suggest having a backup plan for any snake that might be having an issue with it though. If a snake develops a URI from being to cold or a snake that is stressed and over active from being to hot then you would want to remove it from the room. I like keeping my hatchlings around incubation temps for a few weeks or so after hatching so a steady room temp works for them anybody older I prefer giving them the option of thermoregulating.
Just my rambling thoughts