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Rack thermometer ?
- Thread starter Stewy84
- Start date
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
temperatures can and will fluctuate. Depending on Heat pads, Heat Tape, Heat panels, (Whatever type of heat source you use). Usually, the closest to the plug will read a different temp than the farthest from the plug. Also, don't forget the major law of Physics, "Heat Rises." So if your tubs are arranged in a tall structure, there could also be a slight difference from the ones at the bottom and the ones at the top.
I'm not suggesting you need a thermometer in each bin, I'm just letting you know there will be differences from bin to bin. No way around it. They may only be a few degrees, but differences none the less.
I'm not suggesting you need a thermometer in each bin, I'm just letting you know there will be differences from bin to bin. No way around it. They may only be a few degrees, but differences none the less.
Yeah, that's why I've always built my racks with only 3 shelves per plug. That way i could use another thermostat if needed. NHI originally had a separate heated room with a celling fan on medium speed. I have to many kidds for that now. I think I should be good, I'm only running the top 3 shelves. Top is at 78.1 and the bottom one that is on is77.9. I'll take it, only 2 tenths off. By they way is that warm enough or should I bump it up a bit? Thanks
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
77 or 78 seems cool for my liking, but I don't use racks. I do the traditional cage with one side at room temp (71 to 73) and the other side at recommended heated temp (84 to 86).
If I could only do one temp, I think I would opt for the warmer for the health of the snake. They need the added warmth for digestion. I've heard they can digest meals at the cooler side temps, but it takes longer and so you should not feed as often.
If I could only do one temp, I think I would opt for the warmer for the health of the snake. They need the added warmth for digestion. I've heard they can digest meals at the cooler side temps, but it takes longer and so you should not feed as often.
Nanci
Alien Lover
I use one thermometer per rack, which is on one heat supply. I place the probe in the bin, as close to the heat cable or Flexwatt as I can get. Under all substrate, taped with heavy duty aluminum tape. You could also hot glue it.
I buy double probed thermometers, and put the other probe in a cooler location, under the substrate.
I have the probes in the top bin. That's the temp that matters the most- the temp that could get hot enough to kill that snake. All the lower snakes are going to be cooler.
I like to have a temp of 80-84 in the top bin. I put breeding males in the coolest, lower bins, and breeding females and young, weekly-fed juveniles in the middle bins (easy to see and work with) and retired older bigger snakes in the upper bins- snakes that don't need to be watched closely.
I buy double probed thermometers, and put the other probe in a cooler location, under the substrate.
I have the probes in the top bin. That's the temp that matters the most- the temp that could get hot enough to kill that snake. All the lower snakes are going to be cooler.
I like to have a temp of 80-84 in the top bin. I put breeding males in the coolest, lower bins, and breeding females and young, weekly-fed juveniles in the middle bins (easy to see and work with) and retired older bigger snakes in the upper bins- snakes that don't need to be watched closely.