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rack tub sizes?

Zimmer

Zimmer

New member
I'm trying to talk my husband into building/buying a rack, so that we can increase our snake count, but the first step is figuring out dimensions. It looks like most people are using a 41qt sterilite type tub. I've been searching, but having a hard time finding info that is specifically corn snake related, most of my google results pertain to ball pythons. Is that size appropriate for an active adult corn? I would like to go bigger.... I love the idea of a rack setup but I still feel like I would want them to have more space than a 41qt..... Are there larger sizes that have that flat, wide footprint? It seems like larger sizes go up vertically rather than increasing floor space.

What does everyone else use?

I think I'm going to end up with a pvc/wire home depot storage rack and adjust shelf height as needed.

Last - heat cord or flexwatt?

Thanks :p
 
A lot of breeders use 28 qt tubs quite successfully, so 41 might be plenty. Depends on how much you want to decorate I guess?
 
I think I have to decorate a lot to justify using racks! I know to the snake it probably makes barely any difference...... but less than 41qt seemed so small. I guess if you're a snake and you don't wander far from the warm side anyway, it probably doesn't matter!
 
I use 66 quart Sterilites in Animal Plastics Economy Plastic racks. They have about the same floor space as 32 quarts, but I can put in taller hide boxes and nice big water bowls, and hammocks.
 
Awesome I think that might be the way I lean towards for tub size. I was worried I was being silly wanting them to have more space lol but whatever it will make me feel less guilty for using a rack.

Nanci do those have lids or do they fit snug on the shelf? I'm also kinda torn between using lids or not. Security vs convenience?
 
I use 38 and 41 QT tubs that have more floor than height. I do use 66 QT tubs also but for other species than corn snakes. I prefer the 41 QT for adult and the 38 QT for sub-adult corns.
I build my own racks out of pvc shelving and use only Flexwatt back heat. Flexwatt is the safest to use and back heat works the best and most inexpensive way to heat.
I build all my racks to use tubs with lids for security. You can build 2 tubs to a shelf by using lids also. I have a rack that can interchange tubs due to using back heat.
 
Zimmer said:
Awesome I think that might be the way I lean towards for tub size. I was worried I was being silly wanting them to have more space lol but whatever it will make me feel less guilty for using a rack.

Nanci do those have lids or do they fit snug on the shelf? I'm also kinda torn between using lids or not. Security vs convenience?
Click to expand...

Mine are escape proof in that rack without lids for snakes about 100 grams and up. You can always slide cardboard underneath it to shim it for smaller snakes. These bins are the old kind, without the stupid handles that leave gaps.
 
Thanks for the info guys, really appreciate it! So in this rack situation back heat is ok? Everywhere you read it's all about belly heat..... back heat would be great so I could do a combo hatchling/adult setup all on one rack......
 
Zimmer said:
Thanks for the info guys, really appreciate it! So in this rack situation back heat is ok? Everywhere you read it's all about belly heat..... back heat would be great so I could do a combo hatchling/adult setup all on one rack......
Click to expand...

I have been building back heated combo racks for decades. I have a rack right now that started with 24 6qt and 6 12qt tubs. Now it has 4 28qt, 4 8qt, 6 12qt and 9 6qt tubs.

Every time someone posts that corn snakes "require belly heat" I cringe !!
It's frustrating to see that "requirement" perpetuated on this and other sites.
Belly heat IS the most efficient way to provide the heat needed for digestion in most vivarium's. It works the best for snake keepers that use aquariums.
So what is "required" is to provide the proper ambient heat for digestion and a heat gradient for thermal regulation. How you provide it is unique to each situation. In very large facilities they wouldn't use belly or back heat. They provide ambient heat through a central heating system which I also have done in the past.
In racks it is easier to install back heat and you are using half the wattage. You never have to worry about belly burns with snakes like Ball Pythons that are prone to it. For me the biggest advantage is versatility...... :)
 
Thanks for clarifying!!!! Makes a lot of sense! Right now my snake is in a tank and you're right, it makes most sense to use belly heat here. For most pet owners who aren't breeding or keeping more than just a couple snakes, that just makes sense. If I end up with even a quarter of the snakes I want, especially if we breed, setting up an ambient temp room is my plan for the future. For now, snake rack #1.... planning to start working on it after the New Year!
 
I just moved up from 32 qt to the Vision V70 tubs - 37 quarts. But they are wider than the 41 qt, so I like them better. Same dimensions as the Iris CB70.
 
So. Hubby started work on our rack last night! Very excited snake mom here! We chose to go with 41qt sterilite tubs and make it a 6-snake rack. When we move into breeding we will probably start another hatchling/juvenile rack. Because of the long shape of the tubs I'm going to do flex watt belly heat but any ideas what size flex watt? I was thinking 8" or 11"? To cover about 1/3 of the floorspace of the tub? And can anyone describe how they have thermometer and thermostat probes set up so they aren't constantly getting bumped and such?
 
daddio207 said:
I have been building back heated combo racks for decades. I have a rack right now that started with 24 6qt and 6 12qt tubs. Now it has 4 28qt, 4 8qt, 6 12qt and 9 6qt tubs.

Every time someone posts that corn snakes "require belly heat" I cringe !!
It's frustrating to see that "requirement" perpetuated on this and other sites.
Belly heat IS the most efficient way to provide the heat needed for digestion in most vivarium's. It works the best for snake keepers that use aquariums.
So what is "required" is to provide the proper ambient heat for digestion and a heat gradient for thermal regulation. How you provide it is unique to each situation. In very large facilities they wouldn't use belly or back heat. They provide ambient heat through a central heating system which I also have done in the past.
In racks it is easier to install back heat and you are using half the wattage. You never have to worry about belly burns with snakes like Ball Pythons that are prone to it. For me the biggest advantage is versatility...... :)
Click to expand...

What are you keeping in the 6qts
 
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