hey everyone, so im getting ready to get a corn in a couple weeks and want to get the cage all set up properly first. My question is, is a rheostat really necesary for an under tank heater? I've heard of people using standard lamp dimmer switches from hardware stores, is this acceptable?
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rheostats for a heat mat?
- Thread starter cotner
- Start date
Dorgrim
Science nerd, Art nerd
I have found that with a standard heat mat they tend to get too hot. For my snakes I used to clear the bedding off that the temp would be perfect under a log or something, but i just got a zilla 1000wat temperature controller and man...wish i would have gotten it like...years ago lol, saves energy and has a built in kill switch if it ever gets too hot 
I would recommend getting something, because you just cant guarantee your temps will be perfect all the time
and ebay has all kinds of stuff for like....15 bucks (which is howmuch mine cost )
They are well worth it
I would recommend getting something, because you just cant guarantee your temps will be perfect all the time
and ebay has all kinds of stuff for like....15 bucks (which is howmuch mine cost
)They are well worth it
Marica
New member
1. A rheostat/dimmer or a thermostat are necessary to control an under tank heater (UTH) as they will get too hot.
2. A dimmer/rheostat is acceptable in a room where the temperature is consistant. Rheostats made by reptile supply companies are usually more expensive and function exactly the same as a lamp dimmer.
If your tank is in a room where the temperature fluctuates you may want to invest in a thermostat as they will come with a probe that is placed in the tank above the UTH and measure the exact output of your UTH and adjusts it automatically to keep a constant temperature.
I have multiple setups and use both lamp dimmers and Repti-Temp 500R thermostats, which are similar to the Zilla product mentioned by Dorgrim.
2. A dimmer/rheostat is acceptable in a room where the temperature is consistant. Rheostats made by reptile supply companies are usually more expensive and function exactly the same as a lamp dimmer.
If your tank is in a room where the temperature fluctuates you may want to invest in a thermostat as they will come with a probe that is placed in the tank above the UTH and measure the exact output of your UTH and adjusts it automatically to keep a constant temperature.
I have multiple setups and use both lamp dimmers and Repti-Temp 500R thermostats, which are similar to the Zilla product mentioned by Dorgrim.
so if i was to try a thermostat, I would put the probe on the mat correct? wouldnt the light fixture above mess with the reading and give a combined reading? for example, if i had the thermostat attached to the UTH (so it wont cook my snakes belly) and had it set to oh say 80 degrees, the mat wouldnt necessarily be 80, it would be less because of the over head light would make the probe think the mat is hotter than it is? maybe im just confused and over thinking it. My room is generally pretty stable with the exception of an open window every now and then for ventilation
Taz Monkey
New member
The overhead head lamp is not necessary.
I ave a UTH and originally got a dimmer switch for it. YOu'd be surprised at how different the temps are throughout the day even when you think the temps stay consistent. Mine fluctuated between 80 and over 100 degrees. Now, luckily I did all my trial and error BEFORE getting my snake. After the dimmer switch I got a cheap thermostat. Didn't keep the temps as consistent as I wanted. Finally broke down and got a Herpstat thermostat and I couldn't be happier. My temps fluctuate between 85-87 and I love it. I also recently ordered a temp gun so I can see how accurate my thermometer is.
I ave a UTH and originally got a dimmer switch for it. YOu'd be surprised at how different the temps are throughout the day even when you think the temps stay consistent. Mine fluctuated between 80 and over 100 degrees. Now, luckily I did all my trial and error BEFORE getting my snake. After the dimmer switch I got a cheap thermostat. Didn't keep the temps as consistent as I wanted. Finally broke down and got a Herpstat thermostat and I couldn't be happier. My temps fluctuate between 85-87 and I love it. I also recently ordered a temp gun so I can see how accurate my thermometer is.
ok thanks for all the help everyone! i really appreciate it! I read somewhere online that having a blue daylight bulb (like a zoo med or zilla) is benificial to corn snakes? I got a free 5 1/2 inch light dome fixture, would a 40 watt zoo med daylight blue light give off too much heat? it would be nice to light up the cage somehow, but not at the cost of harming my snake.
charlie1
New member
I found my dimmer at home depot by the wall mount dimmer switches. It works perfectly and along with a walmart probe thermometer keeps temps on top of the sub around 84 to 85 degrees.
This is not my exact dimmer but it is similar:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
This is not my exact dimmer but it is similar:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
charlie1
New member
You will find the temperature does not fluctuate over the sub on the heated side much so there is no need to watch it all the time—for the most part you can set it and forget it. As long as it does not get above 80 in your house during the day it will be fine. It will be cooler at night and warmer during the day but not by much. I am not as knowledgeable as some here but I understand that it is good for your snake to cool down a little at night. As long as you have an unheated side with a hide then if it gets a little to warm your corn will just go there. Either way use two hides one over the heated mat and the other on the cool side. Also elevate the vive a little so air can circulate between the bottom of the viv and the stand it sits on.