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Snake rack construction project (photos of the process).

antsterr

Always mostly awesome
Like any snake addict with an ever growing collection I run in to that problem of where to put all them guys. Two weeks from now is the local spring reptile show and with a big of a shopping list made up I figured it was time to build a rack unit.

I found design over at http://www.exoticsbynature.com/boarack.html
I based my own design off of it with a few differences.

My first problem was that I just couldn't find any good bin for it. It took a lot of looking and in the end the ones I got were less than perfect, I'll go in to that later.

The project starts with a bunch of wood and some power tools. I guess a miter saw would have been idea but you make due with what you have.
rack1.jpg


Because the frame was made of 2x2 and can crack from screws I pre drilled the holes.

rack2.jpg


I made 8 shelf frames in order to hold the 7 bins all measured to fit the top of the bins (33 1/2" by 16 1/2").

rack3.jpg


The I used aluminum screen to make what would be the lid for each bin, this will allow airflow but hopefully keep the snake in. Because screen can rip easy I didn't just staple it on but glued it and nailed it to the frame with 1x2s

rack4.jpg


After this I found I needed to add an extra support at each end because I made the shelves to the top of the bins size, leaving the bottom to overhang. I wanted to make sure the ends would be held up.

rack5.jpg


Next I attacked the flexwatt heating panels I purchased from the beenfarm. I stapled it to the wood making sure to only put staples though the plastic edge and not the heating elements.

rack6.jpg


Now I assemble the shelf with 1x4s. This is the real tricky part, to make a lidless rack you need to be very precise in your measuring. 8 3/16th inches it had to be to fit these bins, let them slide but not leave too big of a gap for snakes to get out.
rack7.jpg


Next I installed the wiring, each flexwatt heater is controlled by a dimmer switch, since this isn't grounded I cut the green grounding wires off.
rack8.jpg
 
I hacked up a bunch of extension cords that attacked to the the heater and ran to a power bar at the base, I actually found a 7 outlet bar, that was nice.

rack9.jpg


Rather than the plastic cases they sell to cover the flexwatt clips I just used electrical tape. That way it would sit flat and be easier to staple down.

rack10.jpg


Trouble shooting.... The bins were not flat. The ends were higher than the sides and the sides had a raised handle in the middle. This left a 1/4 inch gap between them and the top along most of the front and back. :headbang:

rack11.jpg


My solution was to put 1x2 strips across the back to cover the gap (the same ones that held down the wiring). On the front I put them on hinges to allow me to open them to pull the bins in and out.

rack12.jpg


On the dimmer switches I drew some lines so I could see how far on they were. I don't have thermostats so I'll need to tune them to the right level. It was pretty hard with solid white.

rack13.jpg


I only have one thermostat. I hope I don't need to buy 6 more. My house temperature doesn't change much so I'll use the probe to set each one and check from time to time to make sure they are all staying at the correct temps. If this proves that they don't stay at one temp very well I'll have to buy one for each bin.

rack14.jpg


I'm not sure how much this is needed but just in case I put little locks on the hinged slats on the front. Now it should be 100% snake proof.

rack15.jpg


And here is the finished product now, 3 suites are full furnished!
rack16.jpg


I still don't trust it to keep my 06's in so I'll keep them in their big glass tanks until this summer when they are a little bigger.
 
Of course, you do realize that you could have each piece of flexwatt connected to the piece after and before it in a line, and you could have one thermostat controlling the entire rack, right?

I current have my Herpstat ND controlling two seperate racks, and it does a fairly good job maintaining even temps. Next upgrade (when I move) will be new racks and a new Herpstat for the other rack.
 
*sneaks into your house and steals your pokemon plushie collection*
>_> I have my priorities!

Nice rack though ;)
 
Joejr14 said:
Of course, you do realize that you could have each piece of flexwatt connected to the piece after and before it in a line, and you could have one thermostat controlling the entire rack, right?

I current have my Herpstat ND controlling two seperate racks, and it does a fairly good job maintaining even temps. Next upgrade (when I move) will be new racks and a new Herpstat for the other rack.


I had a few reasons not to use a single thermostat. I have two boas in there that need higher temps in their bins. It's also against a wall that's partly above and partly below ground. The part above gets very cool in the winter while the part below doesn't, This way an can compensate if that affects the tub temperatures.
And speaking of boas, the Edmonton reptile society spring show happens next weekend. I got a BCI on my shopping list :crazy02:
 
hey nice rack set up...but how did you make the lids?....you got a sceen and cut it to fit an aluminum lid that you made and then stapled and glued it?.....and the snakes can't rip the screen?....
 
the lids are the bottom of the shelf above, I cut the screen and stapled and glued it to wood. I'm pretty sure it's strong enough to hold back a corn snake. Gluing it makes it a lot stronger than staples would.
 
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