• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Using Flexwatt

rspier

New member
The rack systems pictured in the rack thread looked very good, my question is about how to install the flexwatt. Does it attach to the back of the rack or the shelves? Do the plastic containers sit on top of it or get radiant heat from it being attached to the back? Is there an adhesive or does it attach another way? If setting it up with a thermostat where does the sensor go?
 
My hatchling rack

pictured in the thread, has flexxwatt running up the back wall on the inside. It's secured by tape on each side. This heats the back of each box. I use a thermostat and keep an indoor/outdoor thermometer on top so I can check the temperature visually. It has worked very well for me, other than one escape...:mad: I was able to find the gap and fix it though, that box's current resident isn't going anywhere.
 
I use back heat for my racks. However, if you live in a colder climate, and the radiant temps of your snake room are lower, you may find it more acceptable to have the flexwatt running under the tubs directly.

I have the sensor for my thermostat touching the heat tape directly. In fact, I have it taped there with aluminum tape (the same stuff I use to adhere the flexwatt to the rack). I simply have the thermostat set to about 92F, which translates in my situation to an 85-87F on the hot end and a 77-78F on the cooler side.

HTH
 
Since my racks are short, I don't have to worry about temp variation between the ceiling and the floor. As this is the case, I prefer to run my heat vertically behind each column of tubs since less wiring is involved (4 instead of 6 pieces). If you build a tall rack, I'd suggest running the tape horizontally so that each row can be independently adjusted with a rheostat.

I tack the tape directly to the back of the rack shelves before attaching the pegboard backing. I use small tacks in the clear plastic edge. DO NOT PIERCE THE METAL!

Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
 
If you're running your flexwatt horizontally on the shelves won't it get damaged over time from the tubs rubbing on top of it? Does anyone know of a way to prevent this if so? Thanks, VJ.
 
Does pegboard work better on the back? To get better convection or for any other reason? Can small snakes squeeze out of those plastic tubs?
 
Answers

Hatchlings can escape if your tolerances aren't tight. I use lids for all snakes that are under 12 months old.

Peg board allows air to flow through the system, with out over heating the enclosures.

I place the thermo probe in the middle tub of the center shelf. I check for temp differences using an IR thermometer and the center enclosure gives the least amount of variance.
 
Thanks for all of your help. One more question I thought of when pondering the wiring of the flexwatt. If my rack width is 48" should I use four 11" strips to give complete coverage or would two 11" strips be enough? Also should I wire those in series, or in parallel with a power cord splicing to each strip.
 
Back
Top