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im new,very worried

I had one of those analogue thermometers on my first corn snake set up... I had it placed a few inches above my heat pad, it read 85 degrees. When I got a probe Thermometer, the heat pad was actually 135 degrees.
My advice is for you to get a thermostat or Rheostat, if you know electric work you can build a rheostat. Just use the search function and there are buildups for it.

Learn from my mistake, don't almost cook your snake.
 
You could use that...but a rheostat works just like a lamp dimmer. The temperatures will fluctuate depending on the temperatures of the house. (so it would just be cheaper to buy a lamp dimmer switch instead of that)
 
i have rid of the lamp all together and just in a day iv already seen improvments in his behaivior :D i did purchase that rheostat to rate the temp of the pad, just hope it works. But even thru a quarter inch of glass and two inches of bedding i can "cook" him?
 
kaylarose said:
But even thru a quarter inch of glass and two inches of bedding i can "cook" him?
Click to expand...

I don't really understand the question?

You just want to monitor the hottest area the snake is able to get to. Because the snake is able to crawl under the bedding and lay directly on top of the glass above the heat pad, that is where you will want to monitor the temperature. The temperature on top of the bedding doesn't matter.
 
Yes, even through a thick sheet of acrylic or glass you can severely burn your snake. Like has been mentioned, analogs are no good because they are 20 degrees or more inacurate and fluctuate too much. Also if the area feels warm to the touch to us, it's probably way too warm too a snake, and you need to measure the area where their belly touches. This is how I have my thermometers and thermostats set up within my vivs'. I run one end of my dual probe thermometer into the viv all the way to end of the tank on what I have the heating pad on, then I used clear scotch tape to tape the probe down to the floor above an area of the heating pad on the warm side. Then repeat this process with the probe coming from the thermostat. Then I took my hide I use on that side and place it over the probes, but leaving the probes over to the edge of the hide so the snake isnt forced to lie directly on them (seems uncomfortable). Then I take the other probe from the thermometer and run it to the cool side, tape it down, and do the same by placing the hide over the probe, but with the probe off to the side of the inside of the hide. This is just how I've done it, it's by no means the only way, and may not even be the "right" way. If anyone has a better way to do it, I'd gladly take input/suggestions. But my theory is this is a good way to get the temps of directly where my snake is spending its time. I also have a hygrometer in each viv that reads an ambient or "general" "air" temperature.
 
Another few things aside from the temp since that's been covered a fair amount. And i'm fairly new to this too no regurges yet, but I don't want to jinx it.

Does he have plenty of places to hide and plenty of dark?

My corn is set up in a breeding box (26*41*15)cm which is inside a 30gallon vivarium (partly incase he escapes, partly to keep the cold breeze out of the box) heat mat on one side and nothing on the other.

However a fair proportion of it is still covered in hides. Carboard tube on the cool end, a cave on the warm end, a longer tube going down the back and a fake plant for snake to climb over.

Right now I think my temps are slightly warm because he's always on the cool side, but he's still happy as a snake because he has plenty of places to hide.

As for feeding, you said he got a bit of substrate? Just a suggestion here because I know people are split on feeding them in the same enclosure or not (I personally move snake to a handy for feeding, then just let him crawl back into the breeding box when hes ready) but rather than feeding straight into the enclosure, buy a polystyrene cup or something, put the pinkie in there to defrost and then just pop the cup into the viv. No substrate and the area will smell strongly of mouse so he'll know its there.

Just my two pence.
 
:) he has three hides for such a small 10gallon.on the heatpad side he prefurs under this rock type hide from petsmart with a built in water dish, then a cardboardtube with a hole in the middle.then on the cool side he has a small tree hide also from petsmart.i also cover the back and sides with a towel.

i will try putting the pinkie on a big plastic lid inside the cage because he always swallows and finishes it right where i feed him, then goes to hide.

Update: i learned that not even a day after i fed him last someone (without my permission and completely ignoring my "do not handle for three days"post it) handled him. :mad:
 
Update: XD XD XD XD hehehe oh my word he is the friggen cutest thing ever. Ok so i went to feed him on a paper towel, he snatched the pinkie up, lifted his head a good inch then started taking of with it hahaha too awesome.

He actually doesn't want to go in the viv after handling, he tries so hard to stay out. And when he is out he just sleeps or explores in my sleeve XD straight up best pet ever!!!
 
Please tell me you didn't feed him.....

After a snake regurges, they need to be without food for about 10 days. And then after 10 days very very tiny food should be offered, like a pinky head.

If you don't do this, the snake very possibly could regurge again.
And if he does, there is a really good chance he will die.
 
I'd like to know how the snake managed to eat a piece of aspen bedding in the first place. Feeding should be done nowhere near bedding. In a container away from the tank.
 
Like i said, im new, learning as i go getting tips from the experts(i did a complete month of research before, but still it didnt cover everything which is why i joined this forum). I feed him on a paper towel now in his viv, because of his last regurge i didnt want to handle him period. He is doin mighty fine now and i fed him two days ago because of his behavior ( constant moving around the cage flicking his tounge looking for food)

You must know when i first got him the petstore told me they only fed him every three weeks, he was very skinney and very pissed/nervous. The one and only reason he threw up last time was because someone handled him without telling me, and he is only comfortable with me at this point.

I will say i was unaware of the ten day rule and pinkie head only thing, but i have spoken with manymanymany people that have done the same as i did (one time mistake please forgive me) only because he was terribly hungry and trying to gain his health back.
But now,trust me on this, i will wait if he ever does it again ten days and only feed him only a head.

The temps have been fixed
The heat pad is controlled
He is acting very normal (sleeping, resting)
No regurge anywhere
And i am giving him an extra week to "cool off" and pass his food before handling

scouts honor, pinkie promise, swear on my life
pleasepleaseplease dont think im unfit to keep him im doing everything i can
i love him to much to do any harm
 
:D Thankyou for actually listening to us! Here's hoping to a speedy recovery, and a long healthy life with you!
 
Don't beat yourself up kaylarose. In the beginning we ALL make mistakes. No one is born an expert, or experienced. We all start off as novices. Next time just don't be afraid to ask what to do when something worrysome occurs. There's lots of good advice, and lots of good people on here that can help you through a crisis/inquiry. Good luck with your little one. And I'm with Shiari, here's to a speedy recovery and a long life. Enjoy the experiences you'll encounter. They will enrich your life.
 
kaylarose said:
...
he regurged AGAIN!
everything is perfect though in his tank.. :(
Click to expand...

OH, I am so so sorry. That is really scary.
All I can say is please follow the regurge protocol.
No food for 10 days, and then a very very tiny piece of a pinky like a head.
And if you can get ahold of any, try some nutribac on it.
I believe Kathy Love sells it.
And talk to Nanci too, if you get a chance. She and Kathy are 2 of the best people here for advice on this.
 
Check that somebody didn't try to handle them again. And if its kids double check they didn't take "don't handle" as "don't pick up." and still poked the snake.
 
I really dont understand why he did again, it might be curious adults too blind to read the sign I have on it :mad:
I also don't handle for an additional 10 days correct?
And do explain how to cut off a pinkys head without blood and possible puking(I'm four months pregnant)
X.x
Thanks starseval, I will look around for some
 
kaylarose said:
I really dont understand why he did again, it might be curious adults too blind to read the sign I have on it :mad:
I also don't handle for an additional 10 days correct?
And do explain how to cut off a pinkys head without blood and possible puking(I'm four months pregnant)
X.x
Thanks starseval, I will look around for some
Click to expand...

It is easy to behead a pink when its frozen. It will snap. I usually snap the head, then the body in half too. That is 3 meals. Then just thaw like normal.
 
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