Which method(s) gave you the best result in getting a non-feeder hatchling to eat?

There are already hatchlings around, and many more to come. Every year there are those that just can't get it their head that the pinky in front of them is really GOOD TO EAT!!
There are quite a few methods you can try to convince those little ones of that fact, as we all know.
I'd like to know which method(s) has worked *best* for you. Obviously some of the possibilities are last-resort things, like force-feeding I guess, but maybe for some of you that has been the only thing that worked.
I'm not looking for every method that has *ever* worked for you, because then the whole list would be ticked a lot I think. I'm looking for the method of which you think "that's the way that worked *most* for me".

right, I wanted to make a poll with this one... guess I did it wrong...
Well I can list the possibilities I thougth to put there:

*leaving hatchling and pinky overnight
*braining
*scenting
*washing (no scent)
*live pinky
*tease feeding
*force-feeding
*mini brumation

Unfortunately my choices would be force-feeding and mini brumation. I've never had any success with any of the other possibilities...

Most will eat live or f/t right off the bat, but some are more challenging.
My best luck for stubborn hatchlings came with 2 methods. #1 Lizard scenting! #2 Brown paper bag.

#1 I use fence lizards I catch locally to scent with.
#2 I place f/t pinky and snake in bag, staple or tape shut, place in secure location, leave for a few hours or over night.

You missed one trick that could be worth trying.... In fact, most people miss this option..... LOL
Poweraid drinks... You know the type sports people use to rehydrate... Isotonic drinks..
Get a rub and put a 75% mix of poweraid drink to 25% water... Quite shallow, just enough to sit the snake in.... Leave the snake for 10 mins, then remove it for 90 mins, then put the snake back in for another 10 mins.... Then put it into a clean fresh rub and try feeding.... The poweraid drink will rehydrate your snake and replace salt and electrolite in your snake... This is also a good method to try before breeding, when they are ill... etc....

Knock on wood here, but last year I discovered a trick that has ALWAYS worked. Yes, I said always, as in 100% of the time, even with dedicated nonfeeders.

If you have access to Mediterraean/house geckos, they are apparently irresistible to baby corn snakes. The lizards are an invasive species and common around here. After they worked so well last year I keep some tails in the freezer.

The downside of this method is that some babies are tough to wean off gecko-scenting. It wouldn't be my first trick, but I'm really glad to have stumbled onto it. There are several "nonfeeders" who are now happy pets instead of dead as a result of this.

Unfortunately my choices would be force-feeding and mini brumation. I've never had any success with any of the other possibilities...

Click to expand...

Have to say, I didn't have any luck with force-feeding. I could get the pinkies down, they'd stay down, the resulting poop would appear on schedule and look normal. However, the hatchlings would invariably fail to put on weight and would pass on - some after several stressful months.

The thing that's worked best for me? Time. Just keep offering food, leaving them in feeding tubs overnight. If they're going to eat, then eventually they'll get the picture.

Something I've found worth trying, is scenting with the oil from a tin of tuna. Doesn't work for many, but it does get the odd one or two eating each season.

Kali said:

*leaving hatchling and pinky overnight
*braining
*scenting
*washing (no scent)
*live pinky
*tease feeding
*force-feeding
*mini brumation

Click to expand...

I've had about equal success with all of the first 6 methods and I will go down the list to find the method that works for each hatchling, starting with over-night, braining, washing, live, scenting and using tease feeding last as that takes the longest per snake.

I have had to use force-feeding but have had minimal success with it. I had an '08 that I force fed for over a year. He grew fairly well for awhile, but reached a point where he started failing and I eventually lost him. The only other snake that I had to force feed that did fairly well is my hypo Upper Keys female, and the only reason she's doing better now is that she finally switched to washed and then lizard scented pinks. She's been eating them for 6 weeks now and with some luck, I'll be able to gradually get her off the lizard scenting and eventually off of having to wash them.

the way I got mine to eat would be closest to the overnight method.

I left mine in a deli cup and i covered the cup with my t-shirt for about 15 minutes. Once he was not worried about me watching him (shy eater I guess...) he took care of business and will now even sometimes eat while he's still in my hand!

For my epic battle with my non-feeder, Lil, I went from force-feeding to washed live pinkies to washed f/t to normal f/t, with many set-backs and backwards steps along the way.
Which has left me with a beautiful pet snake who I adore, but can't risk breeding in case I lose her after all the effort and heartache or get a whole clutch of dodgy feeders.
I think I'd not go so far to save a non-feeder again, so for me I'll try washed and live again, but no other tricks in the future.