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Amel Crimson?

Rich Z

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Well I tend to get some Amels popping out of my Crimsons as well lately....

amel_crimson_06_01.jpg


And, of course, the Crimsons aren't too shabby in their own rights.....

crimson_06_01.jpg
 
nice!! I have an amel out of a blizzard x crimson F1 breeding, it looks the same as that amel your showing, only a little more red, but the same background and border coloration..

Arjan
 
Bytheway, couldn't that be described as a hypo candy cane?
If so, by the end of this month my F2 candy cane x crimson eggs will hatch, i'm very curious!

Arjan
 
Great Photos !!!!!!!!!

Rich,

Your photos are amazing , you've got to share some of your photography secrets . When taking photos of your animals, are they under any additional lighting besides the normal room lighting, and the light from the flash ?

Thanks, Stephen
 
Ah, that would be letting my secret out, now wouldn't it..... :rolleyes:

Well OK, why not. You have to use TWO or more flashes. The idea is to try to fill in those stark shadows that will result from a single flash unit.

In most cases I use two flashes, each mounted to the side of the camera itself. But sometimes when I am taking photos of larger snakes, I put them in a work area where there is a third flash mounted directly overhead of the subject. Usually any photo where you see my blue background was taken using this three flash setup. The pictures of the babies were all done just using two flashes.

Does that help?
 
Rich Z said:
Ah, that would be letting my secret out, now wouldn't it..... :rolleyes:

Well OK, why not. You have to use TWO or more flashes. The idea is to try to fill in those stark shadows that will result from a single flash unit.

In most cases I use two flashes, each mounted to the side of the camera itself. But sometimes when I am taking photos of larger snakes, I put them in a work area where there is a third flash mounted directly overhead of the subject. Usually any photo where you see my blue background was taken using this three flash setup. The pictures of the babies were all done just using two flashes.

Does that help?

I use the highlight/shadow adjustment option in Adobe Photoshop to get rid of those shadows... hehe

Gonna get some amels from miami/crimson lines in the future too :crazy02:
 
Just be careful that reducing contrast programmatically doesn't leave you with a bland looking image.....
 
It's not reducing contrast, it takes out shadows... but I agree real light from multiple sides looks better of course... I was merely joking ;)
 
Those amels are beauties, well so are the crimsons :) Thanks for the lighting tip Rich. It will help me in the future when I have the $ to buy a flash attachment. I know the new DSLR I bought has better potential then I am getting out of it! Thanks again, Lindsay
 
Heck, about the only time I take photos lately is either when the females are dropping eggs, or the eggs are hatching. I can just put the camera in the reptile building where it is handy and shoot some photos while things are happening. It just isn't feasible doing this at any other time of the year nor during any other circumstances. To try to FIND a particular animal to get a photo of it can easily take me an hour or more. That's just time that is hard to pull away from something else I should be doing.....
 
Maybe contrast between dark and light cause you add ligth hence reduce darkness but reducing contrast is a different adjustment in the colors in the menu so perhaps the people that made Photoshop understand what I mean better. But thanks for being my favorite personal corrective poster again ;)
 
Blutengel said:
Maybe contrast between dark and light cause you add ligth hence reduce darkness but reducing contrast is a different adjustment in the colors in the menu so perhaps the people that made Photoshop understand what I mean better. But thanks for being my favorite personal corrective poster again ;)

What version of PhotoShop are you using?

You need to understand some limitations of programmable adjustments in photographs. There are conditions known as washout in highlights, and blackouts in shadowed and darkened areas. What this means is that detail is actually lost in those instances. Areas that are too bright may be all white, and areas that are too dark will be all black. In reality there are details that an adjustment in the exposure of the camera or proper utilization of flash, would have been able to capture. When an image is whited out of blacked out, no program on earth can bring back those details that were not captured within the photo. All it can do is to make the whited out area darker, and the blacked out area lighter. It cannot bring forth hidden details that were destroyed by an improper exposure.

Programmatically, I think it would be extremely difficult for a program to be able to determine shadows from naturally occurring lighter and darker areas side by side. How does it know that instead of a white card laying on a black card the same size and shape, that the dark area exposed underneath is really a shadow instead?

How would it know that a ball that is sun faded on one side really looks that way and the darker area is not just a shadow?

All it knows is colors of pixels, not the INTENT of what the image is supposed to show.

Yeah, computer programs have gotten pretty smart, but they are not perfect and cannot do miracles.

So my recommendation would be to take care in taking the original photograph so you don't have to wind up wishing that your computer software can pull a rabbit out of a hat for you.
 
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