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Brumation questions

ajsnow6234

New member
Hey everyone...just to answer YOUR question, yes i have done a bit of searching and reading before asing this but i needed some personalized questions for the veterans here.

1. I'm starting to up the feedings a little bit on my corn snake female i'm planning to breed, I'm not too worried about her, due to the fact that she's huge, but as long as she's got good weight to her she'll be fine right?

2. Do you do anything special for the viv during brumation? as in keep it all dark? Turn off any heat (currently I have a low watt Ceramic Heat Emitter on one side)? keep them in a different area?

3. When's the best time to start brumating? December lasting 2-3 months?


Thanks everyone
 
So then why even bother posting? Some forums would disable you for that, don't spam just so your post count can go higher
 
listen you little nasty thing.... sheesh.... I dont give a royal rip about post count sheesh... What the heck does a high post count get me anyway???? There was no need for you to be so nasty... fine.... I will never ever respond to any of your posts..... but being that nasty... I hope NOBODY else does either!!!
 
My intentions weren't nasty, my point was...i'm asking a question about a certain subject, don't bother responding if your post is going to be pointless. I'm hoping a Moderator can delete these last few posts to get this back on track.
 
Cat_Eyed_Lady said:
I'm sorry.... I cant help you :( I dont brumate my snakes...

What she is saying is answering your question not everyone brumates, simple as that. 'Cat' is giving you a different point of view. I did not brumate last year either, while some of the eggs were fertile, they did not hold up in incubation. Many people however have great success without brumation.
Before you jump on me I am not trying to get my count up either, don't feel Cat or I are in danger of getting banned for anwering a question, but being rude to established members will get you nowhere on this forum. :shrugs: susan
 
I'm trying to not get :-offtopic here...like you're doing as well. I asked some simple questions to veterans about a very specific topic. There was no need for ANYONE to post unrelated content. It doesn't make any sense. I wasn't intending to be rude, but if i want to be i will be to anyone, i don't care if you're and established member, my question was about brumation and if you can't answer those questions, then don't post...use some common sense. I'll leave this post for you to read, then i'll be editing out everything, i'm trying to get questions answered not deal with nonsense like this
 
ajsnow6234 said:
I'm trying to not get :-offtopic here...like you're doing as well. I asked some simple questions to veterans about a very specific topic. There was no need for ANYONE to post unrelated content. It doesn't make any sense. I wasn't intending to be rude, but if i want to be i will be to anyone, i don't care if you're and established member, my question was about brumation and if you can't answer those questions, then don't post...use some common sense. I'll leave this post for you to read, then i'll be editing out everything, i'm trying to get questions answered not deal with nonsense like this

If you want to be rude to members here, you WILL??
You are not going to last long around here with that attitude!
 
susang said:

I appreciate your effort but your links don't work. I think some of you are reading me a little wrong. Yes sometimes i can come off a little rude, but it's because I'm to the point, i will tell you what i feel. Sorry but it just makes no sense to me for someone to post in a topic they have no idea about. That would be like me going to every thread in this forum and just making a post for the heck of it. I'm not even trying to redeem myself here, I meant anything i said, just don't think you all should take it so personal. I'm an active member on many forums and have been doing more reading on here than i have posting only because I'm not quite to the point where i feel knowledgable enough yet to post much.
Despite what you may believe i actually have been reading some threads on brumation, just not finding specific similar answers, it always give a person more confidence when reading a comment posted directly for them. Thanks again
 
I don't brumate either. Last year I did a cooler period where I turned heat off and didn't skipped a few feedings on those that could take it. The temps were in the mid 60s which is why it wasn't really a true brumation. This year I'll probably do the same thing and just turn the heat off. Fertility ranges and I think it depends more on the snake than brumation. I had a first year male with no brumation mated to a proven female with no brumation - 30 fertile eggs and 29 hatchlings from those eggs. Then she double clutched for me. Brumation isn't necessary (and neither is rudeness - we always have to be careful how we word things when the person's tone and inflection can't be taken into account).

~Katie

*Those that do brumate I believe some put in complete darkness while others just shorten the light period. Start your brumation to time your eggs correctly - I'm sure some people already have snakes brumating and they'll be pulled out in December and others will start in December.
 
ajsnow6234 said:
I appreciate your effort but your links don't work. I think some of you are reading me a little wrong. Yes sometimes i can come off a little rude, but it's because I'm to the point, i will tell you what i feel. Sorry but it just makes no sense to me for someone to post in a topic they have no idea about. That would be like me going to every thread in this forum and just making a post for the heck of it. I'm not even trying to redeem myself here, I meant anything i said, just don't think you all should take it so personal. I'm an active member on many forums and have been doing more reading on here than i have posting only because I'm not quite to the point where i feel knowledgable enough yet to post much.
Despite what you may believe i actually have been reading some threads on brumation, just not finding specific similar answers, it always give a person more confidence when reading a comment posted directly for them. Thanks again
You need to calm down and start realizing that this forum is a bit different than many other forums. We're a close-knit family and do take things personally. And we do not tolerate rudeness, foul language, etc. We can and do occasionally get off topic as well as have a bit of fun. But most importantly, we all care about corn snakes.

The members that have already responded to your inquiry were doing what they normally do...first off, letting you know that your post has not been ignored. Second, they were giving you some information by saying that they do not brumate their corns. Not every breeder does and there are various reasons why some breeders do and others do not brumate. And third, they are letting you know that how you've responded to the other members here is not how we do things. As a moderator, I will not delete the posts that you don't like. You have the option of deleting the thread yourself and trying again.

I'm not sure why the offered links did not work, but you can run a search yourself to get many different viewpoints on brumation itself and the various methods that can be used, including how to brumate your corns off-season.

I brumate my breeders. Yes, good weight and condition are very important, especially for the females. The general rule is 3 years old and at least 300 grams for females. Over-weight females can have problems as well as under-weight females. The age and weight is not as critical with males...i.e. younger and smaller males can be bred successfully.

The exact procedure to set a corn snake down for brumation is outlined in many places, the best known is Kathy Love's books. If you do not own one, I would highly recommend that you purchase one.

After you've emptied the snakes digestive tract, you decrease the temps in the viv, maintain fresh water, lower the light levels (it doesn't have to be completely dark 24/7, but covering the viv is a good idea), and don't disturb them other than to spot clean and change the water. The length of time can vary, but often range from 4 weeks to 3 1/2 months, with 8-10 weeks being the average. You can start brumation anytime during the colder months but most people choose to brumate from around the end of Nov into Feb. You can, however, re-train corn snakes to breed any time throughout the year by changing their cycle artificially.

And one final word...continue to be rude to anyone and you'll find yourself temporarily banned.
 
I don't know who you think is uncalm...I'm perfectly calm and I'm sorry that some people here have taken anything personally. I didn't even say anything "rude" to begin with. It was the other person who called me a "nasty little thing" and was completely rude to me. This is a misunderstanding that should have been settled through PMs, now it's gotten completely off topic. Thank you, to you and the other person who actually responded and I honestly appreciate the input, I'd like to leave it at this and if anyone else has something to say about the actual topic please do. Like I've said twice now I have done some forum searching as well as google searches. Thank you
 
The main thing i was wondering about, because I've seen differing opinions, is the suggested method for lighting. I've seen a lot of people only give 8 hours or less of light or some people give complete darkness. Personally I'd think 8 hours of light would be good but I haven't heard enough to come up with a general consensus
 
Mine are brumated with the natural setting and rising of the sun during the winter in a room with only one small window and no other light source.
 
Got a question or two Susan!!!

First, when you say three years how is that figured??? For instance, if I have a 2005 female Corn do I breed her in the spring of 2008 when she will be 2.5 years or wait until spring of 2009 when she will be 3.5 years??? If I wait till 2009 what are the chances of her becoming egg bound????

Secondly, in your brumation room how cold does it get???? We have the same problem in Texas that y'all in Florida have--warm winters. How do you get the temps down???

Thanks for your time!!!!

Pat
 
lol, yeah this is one question i guess I overlooked, but have thought about. being in NM i also have moderately warm winters, and I don't let it get very low. I'm kinda wondering what other's do as well.
 
Pat GC said:
First, when you say three years how is that figured??? For instance, if I have a 2005 female Corn do I breed her in the spring of 2008 when she will be 2.5 years or wait until spring of 2009 when she will be 3.5 years??? If I wait till 2009 what are the chances of her becoming egg bound????

Secondly, in your brumation room how cold does it get???? We have the same problem in Texas that y'all in Florida have--warm winters. How do you get the temps down???

Thanks for your time!!!!

Pat
It may depend upon when in 2005 she was hatched, but generally, 2008 would be the first recommended year she could be bred. However, if she was hatched in August or later, and her weight by the time she would be put into brumation for the 2008 season was at bare minimum, I personally would wait to breed her. Waiting until 2009 would have no effect on her chances of becoming egg-bound.

Ideal brumation temps are around 55-60 F with mild fluctuations. And since Florida winter temps can go down to below 32F, I have no trouble usually maintaining proper brumation temps. Yes, sometimes we have warmer winters, but that is why man created air conditioning.
 
I want to brumate this year too. I have been fairly successful with no brumation but would like to have better results. I lose alot of seemingly fertile eggs during incubation. I almost always get something though(except this year!).

I have trouble getting the temps lower than 63-65.
 
If you can keep the temps at 63-65 F, that should be just fine, especially if you decrease the light as well.
 
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