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Corn snake very aggressive!

My guess?? This is definitely a case of insufficient provided food.
She's hungry, and look at your hand as a thanksgiving turkey..

Mouse pinkies will not do any good at all for a snake at this size.. She can have hopper already without any doubt.

Bottom line, i suggest you to see the munson plan ( http://www.bhbreptiles.com/main.aspx?Page=feedchart)
Then upsize the feeder mouse weight at 20% more than munson plan, BUT FEED HER ONCE A WEEK (very important, if not, then you may have overfeeding case).

If at those treat she still wont be happy to see you anytime, then maybe she just dont like you, haha.. j/k.. Try the used socks trick..
 
Corns do not need to be misted. They get their humidity from the water bowls that are evaporating.

Both probes (the one from the thermostat and one digital thermometer) so you can ensure the temps are right. There should be suction cups to hold the probes in place.
 
Also, even though the pet shop said to use it doesn't make using a UV light on corns right. They do not need light from above, they use UTH for belly heat to help them digest. Please get rid of the lamp and go with a UTH. The lamp can harm them, cause fires and, in some cases, blind the snake.

I know it is hard to grasp that a pet shop could be wrong, but we hear this nearly every day, not every pet shop worker is trained in the best husbandry for each animal and regurgitate what they have been told by other not-so-up-to-date employees.
 
The place I went to was run by zoologists and the light only lights up very dimly red. I'll put a picture of command strips In a sec
 
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quadman230 said:
The place I went to was run by zoologists and the light only lights up very dimly red. I'll put a picture of command strips In a sec
Click to expand...

Is it a UV lamp? Those are what cause the most damage. I can't imagine a zoologist recommending a lamp for a corn snake, but not much surprises me anymore!

Oh, I know what hooks you are talking about. As long as they are not sticky they are a great option. Any tape or sticky stuff may stick to your kiddo and not be able to be removed.
 
Yeah it's a UV lamp and they are sticky but they are very securely placed, I've used picture hanging ones that can hold up to 8kg I think



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An Under Tank Heater and thermostat under one end, this will allow the cool end to be a great place where the corn can choose where he is most comfortable. Corns need belly heat to digest, they are nocturnal and prefer being active at dark.

Also, there are two great books written by esteemed members of this forum, Kathy Love and Don Soderberg. I would get both and read as much as you can on your corn, there are a lot of things you may not have thought of or considered that are very important to your snake's well-being.
 
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So she managed to eat her first fuzzy (with trouble) lol. She eats all of her mice tail end first, is this common or is she just weird? Also I've noticed she's got a greyish spot near her head I'll see if I can get a picture of it but I don't know whether I need to be worried about it or not


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heh, there's a topic about 'special' snakes that eat their food butt-first, or try to eat it from the side.... lol some figure it out, some don't....

My first two when young would just grab the mouse wherever, and then would eventually walk their mouth around to one end or the other.... eventually they learned to sort of poke/pick at it... I think this lets them figure out the lay of the fur, so they then swallow head first... they at least figured out that it goes down easier...
 
I'm an "old" newbie to snakes, as I mentioned in my introduction. I'm having an issue, and I'm soliciting advice. Peaches is an albino corn, juvenile, about 3 to 4 feet long, and when laying flat out without a rat in her belly, at her largest diameter, she's about the size of a Kennedy half-dollar.
Here's my issue: She's always kept pretty much to her hide, coming out to drink occasionally, and to eat a nice, juicy, live, adult white mouse about once a week, occasionally, a quick recon mission of the viv, perhaps....but then, right back to "Deep Undercover".
However, lately she's been systematically probing every corner of her viv; up to each corner, and down to each corner. Last week, she burrowed down into the Aspen bedding, and rammed her nose on the bottom glass of her viv. She's also been very active of late. For minutes at a time, it's almost like she's frantic. Like she can't get comfortable: in the hide for a few minutes, then crawling into and out of the water dish, then crawling out the eye of the skull in her viv, then burrowing underneath the water dish, then curled around it, laying still. Also, every time I used to take her out and handle her, she would constantly try to get away. I'm gentle with her, but I intercept her escape by moving my hand under where she's headed. It's like she just can't be still, and she wants to be wherever I'm NOT.
I thought the underlying cause for all this was underfeeding, as I was told that, "an adult pet-store mouse once a week to a week and a half" between feedings, so I stepped it up to once a week. (When I go to Petco, I buy one of the aforementioned white mice, and two frozen "Gourmet" mice. and she gets one a week, in that order.) I keep a large plastic bowl of water in her viv, a smaller bowl for good measure, and I change both with fresh water regularly.
Now, after doing some research...and joining this forum, I have discovered that I was making some serious mistakes. Here they are: I don't have a UTH. I was using a light bulb for her heat, since the house is kept warm in the Winter. (Florida). DID keep the light/heat source to only one side of the viv. Didn't know anything about regular light bulbs possibly BLINDING my pet. So, I stopped doing that too. I don't handle her much, right now, because I don't want something I'm doing, or some MICROBE on me to be causing this.
I apologize for writing, "War & Peace", here, but I am really attached to this Albino, and I want her to be happy here. Any ideas?

Storm
 
Storm,

I wonder if your snake is exhibiting mating behavior. My snake is quite young, so I don't know for sure. But I read quite a few posts about behavior changes during spring time in adult/sub adult snakes. Most of posts says increased activity, and some snake would stop eating all together.

If you are sure she's a girl, you might want to prepare a lay box, from what I read, females can lay unfertilized eggs without being bred.

Good luck. I'm dreading the time when my boy is old enough for spring fever :(
 
acquired Peaches supposedly knew her $4i!. If it's not too expensive, I'll save up and take her to an exotic pet vet, and get her a soup-to-nuts checkup. It'll take a while, but I'll do it. Thanks, Carriecat2.
 
Kenzie'sGrampa said:
I'm an "old" newbie to snakes, as I mentioned in my introduction. I'm having an issue, and I'm soliciting advice.
Storm
Click to expand...

Storm, welcome to the forums! I suspect you would have better luck starting a thread on your animal rather than inserting it in another discussion.

smigon said:
Yes, DEFINITELY get rid of that UV lamp. Nothing good comes from them.
Click to expand...

Several years ago, I put UVB bulbs over a rack of grow-out corns, and kept a control rack of siblings with no light. What I was hoping to see was if UV radiation caused any increase in growth, activity, etc. Unfortunately, what I wound up finding was cataracts on the amel animals under the UV light. Normals seemed unaffected, the one blizzard appears to be blinded, but the only truly blind snake is the snake with no tongue, so he still feeds normally. The one thing this showed me is that UVB is not a good idea for corn snakes, and downright hazardous to individuals with reduced melanin.
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Storm, here is a link to a post I made for someone, it has some good information and links to things you may never have considered. I hope it helps!
 
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