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Custom Tank Q's

F

Fhwagod

New member
I'm going to be building my own tank. I'm currently house three corns. One is 2 years+ and the others are less than three months. The big guy is on his own, but the two little guys are cohabed. I'm going to be separating them very soon. I'm thinking of building a three tiered tank. I'm making it out of plexiglass and wood. Each area is going to consist of a few levels for them to roam around on. I know they're not climbers, but this won't be like branches.

What I'm asking is, has anyone done this before and how did you do the lighting. I'm finding my design a little.... lacking for their heating needs. Would a heater on the bottom of the substrate work? I've heard of it burning the snakes. Possibilities? Suggestions? Anything positive.

If I'm in the wrong area for this thread I apologize. I'm very new to the site.

Thanks!
-Fhwa
 
You can put heat cable or pads on the back outside. That's my heat suggestion they don't need lighting.
Curious where in ORegon are you? susang
 
Eugene, Oregon

Eugene. It's a nice area. I am beginning to dislike the pet stores around here. They had me believing that they were right on a lot of things. They gave me "the basics" and this site blew most of that away.

I can't wait to build my tank. What about a front opening cage? Are those better than a top opening cage?

I have so many questions. Is there a thread for... custom made tanks? If so, awesome! Point me in that direction.

-Fhwa
 
I have a professionally, commercially-built 4-tiered habitat complete with fans, pull out drawers, accessory heater hookups, and thermostats at work.

I hate it.

The top one is empty, but the third one up is up to 10 degrees warmer than the lower one at any given time. It's really hard to properly maintain good conditions in that kind of situation. For yours, I'd probably use heat cable like was suggested above, but even at that, keep a close eye on the temperature difference between your lower and upper tanks.
 
I would recomend ensuring some insulation space between tanks. I.E. The ceiling of one tank shouldn't be the floor of the one above it. give it a number of inches between them. You might also try using plexiglass/glass for the floor and setting it a few inches off the wood that way you could use a UTH to heat it (Hope this makes sense) You just need to make sure you get lots of ventilation to this UTH area.

As for them not being climbing snakes apparently my hatchling never got that memo I find him up in the little bush/tree thing in his cage all the time all coiled up like a trea boa and happy.
 
Sanebedlam said:
I would recomend ensuring some insulation space between tanks. I.E. The ceiling of one tank shouldn't be the floor of the one above it. give it a number of inches between them. You might also try using plexiglass/glass for the floor and setting it a few inches off the wood that way you could use a UTH to heat it (Hope this makes sense) You just need to make sure you get lots of ventilation to this UTH area.

As for them not being climbing snakes apparently my hatchling never got that memo I find him up in the little bush/tree thing in his cage all the time all coiled up like a trea boa and happy.
Click to expand...

I've actually never had an issue with heating when using the ceiling of one for the floor of another. If you're using 3/4" melamine or plywood, it's going to be such a poor conductor that it shouldn't really be an issue. Just my experience.
 
My opinion on some of the problems with stacked: if stacked you must have front doors that fine but you really have to make sure the babies can't get out the gap. I realize you are young, but working with the bottom and top tank sucks when cleaning and changing water, getting the snake out to feed.
good luck, susang
 
Thanks, also... what's a UTH? I'm 20 and just now getting into snakes. So, I've got plenty of time to learn. Thanks again.
 
Build your own cage

I have found easiest to build is to go to Lowe's, Home Depot, etc and buy four 36" x 16" melamine covered shelves. I then used my air nailer to attach two shelves (top and bottom) to third board (back). I then cut fourth shelf to fit between to make sides. Be careful and use straight edge such as 2x4 along side of nailer to keep from shooting nailes out the side. You could hold a drill really level side to side and predrill holes and use screws instead. Use a 1 x 3 board across bottom front and a 1 x 2 across top then make a frame out of 1 x 2 with about 1/4" grove all around inside to which you would attach plexiglass or glass. This door should be cut about 1/4" short to allow space for piano hinge which you would attach to bottom of door and top of the 1" x 3" board on bottom of front. Apply silicone caulk to sides and scrap vinyl flooring as extra precaution on the bottom and you are done. I went ahead and spent a little extra and got a radiant heat panel to use for heat (along with thermostat or rheostat). Instead of melamine shelves you could also use plywood, but use good water based sealer or else the adhesive backed kitchen shelf paper. Might want to add a vent in the back-soffitt vent, etc.
 
hypo123 said:
I have found easiest to build is to go to Lowe's, Home Depot, etc and buy four 36" x 16" melamine covered shelves. I then used my air nailer to attach two shelves (top and bottom) to third board (back). I then cut fourth shelf to fit between to make sides. Be careful and use straight edge such as 2x4 along side of nailer to keep from shooting nailes out the side. You could hold a drill really level side to side and predrill holes and use screws instead. Use a 1 x 3 board across bottom front and a 1 x 2 across top then make a frame out of 1 x 2 with about 1/4" grove all around inside to which you would attach plexiglass or glass. This door should be cut about 1/4" short to allow space for piano hinge which you would attach to bottom of door and top of the 1" x 3" board on bottom of front. Apply silicone caulk to sides and scrap vinyl flooring as extra precaution on the bottom and you are done. I went ahead and spent a little extra and got a radiant heat panel to use for heat (along with thermostat or rheostat). Instead of melamine shelves you could also use plywood, but use good water based sealer or else the adhesive backed kitchen shelf paper. Might want to add a vent in the back-soffitt vent, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I never thought of using a nail gun. SOO much easier. Any ideas where I might get a UTH? (Thanks SusanG) I kinda wanted my tank to be made out of Plexiglass and less wood. I like being able to see from all sides and I think it looks a little better IMO. Great ideas though, I may adapt my plans to use a little of both plans.

Lastly... UTH's.. are they adjustable? Temp-wise? What's the best way to install them? Under the substrate? Or actually under the glass?

Cheers
-Fhwa
 
UTH they stick under the tank on the glass most come with little feet, should be around 1/3 side of the viv. Petco, Petsmart, Reptile store, online, just google UTH or ZooMed. They get to one heat whcih you can regulate many ways thermostat, rheostat... susang
 
blckkat said:
I use halogen lighting in my cages.
Provides heat and light in one shot. Hook it up to a dimmer and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

I'm confused, I use red lights on some tanks, so I can watch the snakes and they get heat, but I didn't think you could use a reg. halogen. Do you also use a heat pad? susang
 
No, in my cages I use ONLY Halogens.
Without a dimmer a single Halogen can reach floor temperature (2' height) of 105 degrees directly beneath the light. A night time temperature doesn't hurt the animals and my reptile room doesn't get below 75 degrees.
 
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