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Does This Setup Sound Ok?

J

Jeremy B.

New member
Hi Everyone..... My daughter who will be 7 in April is desperately wanting a snake. I have had snakes in the past when I was younger (2 ball pythons, 1 burmese, and Florida King), however this was back when I was very young. From the research I've been doing for the last week I have put together an equipment list that I would like for someone who is much more knowledgeable in this field to look over for me. This will be housing a young captive bred corn, although we're not exactly sure which species just yet.

10gal tank w/fine mesh screen secured by clips
60wt Spot BrightLight Lamp - Full Spectrum
EcoEarth Substrate
Four Paws UTH - Small
Small Half Log Hide
Small Watering Bowl
 
Welcome to the Forums!!!

That sounds good to me, the only thing is that I would add another hide, it doesn't have to be fancy, maybe just a empty toilet paper roll or paper towl roll. Post picks if you can when you get him/her.

Nice to meet you.
 
Well,

I'd rather have a Critter Cage with the sliding lid.

You don't need a light for a corn snake.

The UTH should cover a third of the bottom of the cage, and you need a thermostat or rheostat to control it. Unregulated UTHs will reach 120F.

You need a reliable thermometer to check the temps- not the stick-on kind. I use the Fluker's Thermometer/humidity gauge, and just place it where I want to check, but a thermometer with a probe- which I think they sell at Walmart, would also work and you wouldn't have to move it around. It's an indoor/outdoor thermometer.

I would use aspen for the substrate, but I think some people use EcoEarth.

Water crock big enough for the snake to get into if it wants and heavy enough not to tip over.

At least two hides- one for the warm side, one for the cool side.

Some vines for the snake to hide in, and a small climbing branch would be extra, but nice.

And, if you don't want to buy a new viv shortly, a 20 gallon long tank will last till your snake is an adult.

Good luck with the new snake!

Nanci
 
Thanks for the reply guys. The temp controller shouldn't be a problem to pick up. The 10gal tank and stand was already there, so I just went ahead and went with that. I figured I'll be upgrading to something a little larger at the 1yr mark if my daughter really wants to stick with this, etc. If she doesn't, I guess I'll have to talk my wife into moving the little guy/girl into our bedroom! :)

Now we have until the 25th of this month to figure out what we're looking for. That's when our local reptile show comes around again.
 
I have two ten gallon vivs on my dresser in the bedroom- I'd be lonely without them! Must see snakes at all times!! :rolleyes:

Nanci
 
Nanci, I have never used a thermostat or a rheostat on my uths.....doesn't the snake know when the temps are too warm? The highest temps I've ever recorded were at 100 degrees and that was practically on top of the uth (thin layer of substrate) and moss was keeping one end of the hide closed off.
I guess my thinking is that if you put substrate on top of the uth and the snake burrows and it's too warm, won't it move? Just curious because as I mentioned, I've never used anything to regulate my uths and I've used them for several years.
 
Nanci said:
The UTH should cover a third of the bottom of the cage, and you need a thermostat or rheostat to control it. Unregulated UTHs will reach 120F.

You need a reliable thermometer to check the temps- not the stick-on kind. I use the Fluker's Thermometer/humidity gauge, and just place it where I want to check, but a thermometer with a probe- which I think they sell at Walmart, would also work and you wouldn't have to move it around. It's an indoor/outdoor thermometer.
Good luck with the new snake!
Nanci
Click to expand...

The girl is absolutely correct. You need to listen to her. :cheers:
Jay & PJ :cool:
 
The ZooMed ReptiTherm UTH is, in my experience, much hotter than the Desert ExoTerra- so much so that you can't put the two on the same thermostat.

I don't want to find out if my snake is smart enough to move or not.

Plus, you have to measure on the hottest part the snake can possibly get to- right on top of the UTH, with no substrate in between.

Marky's mom- you've just been lucky.

LLL Reptiles has the ZooMed thermostat for I think $19.99. Nothing. I have three of these in use- they are working well for me. Of course you can go much fancier if you want to. But the basic thermostat is very affordable. Big Apple Herp also has a three outlet thermostat which shuts down automatically at 100F in case of failure. I have ordered one of these to test out on a 20L that I want to control separately from its partner 20L.

Nanci
 
With the business I work at I am able to order all of my supplies either from the manufacturer direct or from a distributor (we're a disributor for ESU Coralife and order from them directly, which also has the Reptilife line), so I'll look into getting one of their temp controllers. If not, we have temp controllers that we use for the aquarium side that will work too.
 
Nanci said:
I have two ten gallon vivs on my dresser in the bedroom- I'd be lonely without them! Must see snakes at all times!! :rolleyes:

Nanci
Click to expand...
PSHAWW...I have 2 tens, a 20L, and a mouse cage on my dresser, plus a second mouse "tub" up on the shelf in the closet...and I'm just getting started ;)...
 
Nanci said:
Big Apple Herp also has a three outlet thermostat which shuts down automatically at 100F in case of failure. I have ordered one of these to test out on a 20L that I want to control separately from its partner 20L.

Nanci
Click to expand...
We use these as well Nanci. These things work great. I use them on my stackable racks and they control both units at a time. You can check them out here.................

Big Apple Rheostat

Hope this helps.
Jay & PJ :cool:
 
Nanci, I sent you a PM but I freaked out and ordered the BAH-1000 Thermostat just now from Big Apple Herp. It's sooooo not worth the risk.

As a side note....the information packet that comes with the Zoo Med uth says that you should use a thermostat if your house gets over 80 degrees. Ours never does so it wasn't an issue.
It also states that if you use cage carpeting or Repti Bark it is safe without a thermostat. I was using both at that time.
I'm now using Aspen and with this type of substrate it says to put a layer of cage carpeting down and then put the substrate on top to keep temps safe.
IMO you are right.....I've been lucky. I ordered that thermostat earlier and upgraded my shipping so it would get her quicker.
I also went downstairs to check on Markey. She was completely burrowed under the Aspen on the cool side. Now I'll be a nervous wreck until the thermostat arrives. Sheesh! There's always something......
Thanks for the info. I'm so happy that I read a lot here.....
 
Hi Markey,
The warm end of your tank should be hovering around the 85-87 degree range and your cool end no cooler then 72-75. You should also purchase some kind of digital thermometer with a probe (2, one for the warm end, one for the cool). The rheostat you purchased comes with a probe as well. Make sure you stick the probe of the rheostat and the thermometer directly in the center of the heat pad as that will be the hottest spot. The thermometer you use on the cool end should be right about substate height. This will help you regulate your over all ambient temps. The dial on the rheostat is not absolutely exact with the numbers (as it is not digital, it is analog). The number you set it at and the actual temp of the UTH may differ by a degree or two. Use the thermometer on the warm end to help you syncronize the exact wattage you want the rheostat to put out. Hope this helps. Smart move on your purchase of a rheostat.
Jay & PJ :cool:
 
Lisa (Markey's mom), I sent you a PM this morning, but I see you've already ordered the thermostat. If you're going to freak out about anything with me, you have to do it before 9PM on a weeknight :) :) But I answer my mail really early! Looks like Jay and PJ have you taken care of. If you're really, really worried, although Markey has been fine so far, you could put a piece of ceramic/clay tile over the UTHs inside the viv for now. I'd start out with the thermostat slightly cooler, like 83F, and see what it sets the UTH at, then go up from there. Checking it several times a day till you hit your target temp, then daily for a few days to make sure is stays. Big Apple Herp has a pretty cool two-probe thermometer so you could measure the warm and cool sides at once. It's digital, $24.

Nanci
 
Well thanks everyone!!!! I'll print out these instructions and make sure I get it right once the thermostat arrives. I do take regular temps in my setup and had just finished a 24 hour temp/humidity check. Everything was perfect.
It's not worth the risk so once I get the thermostat and get the mats plugged in, I'll follow your directions. Oh the joys....this snake is loved!
 
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