• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

heat prob agen

dwyn127 said:
my warm side fluctuates between 85 and 87. This is with the temp probe undet the hide, under the substrate, right against the glass.

With a thermostat, you set the temperature and the unit keeps that temp. With a rheostat, you'll get a little more fluctuation, but I rarely need to adjust the setting. It's basically putting the uth on a dimmer switch similar to what's used for some lighting fixtures. You'll need to use the rheostat with a digital thermometer that has a probe as I've described above to help you regulate the temps you want.
Click to expand...

so i plug the uth into the rheostat, and it keeps the uth at a set heat? or the whole cage at a set heat?
 
The uth should be under the viv on either the far left or right with the thermometer probe on top of it set at around 85. If you do this, the other side of the viv will be somewhere closer to the temp of your room giving your snake a warm and a cool side.
 
A thermostat is a doomahickey with an attached temperature probe that you can either wire or plug your heatsource into. You can set your temperature on a thermostat to the maximum you want your hot spot to be and it won't let it get too hot. I have found these to cost between $60 us for a half decent one up to $300 for an ultra deluxe model. The average "good" one seems to be around $100. The downside is expense but the ups are that you sometimes don't have to do the wiring, it might be as easy as plug and go, it's the safest way to go, fire hazard wize, and it is the most accurate way to control temps.

A rheostat is like a dimmerswitch. They almost always have to be "wired" by YOU to your heat source. The idea is that you can have a seperate thermometer to keep track of your average temperature and if it's generally too hot you turn the dimmer switch down. This pretty much eliminates the dangers of snakes burning themselves and it allows you SOME control over temps. Another plus is that it can cost as little as $10 to set one up and it seems very easy to do. There is a TERRIFIC thread on here with step by step instructions along with actual pictures! ;)

Too bad you can't just buy a product that you can just plug in and have the perfect viv for $20 or $30 eh? I know that's how easy some pet shops and suppliers make it seem.

Rebecca
 
dwyn127 said:
The uth should be under the viv on either the far left or right with the thermometer probe on top of it set at around 85. If you do this, the other side of the viv will be somewhere closer to the temp of your room giving your snake a warm and a cool side.
Click to expand...

you mean thermostat?
 
dwyn127 said:
yes, that's all you do. But I like to use a seperate digital thermometer in the event the thermostat defects. Digital thermometers can be had from Walmart for about $9.00.
Click to expand...

thank you very much. of course, having a 2nd thermometer would be a good idea. thank you for all your help
 
snakessss said:
http://www.bigappleherp.com/Reptile_Supplies/Product/Electronic_BAH1000_Thermostat_924105.html

so all i would do is plug my uth into this, set the probe in the substrate on the warm end, and det the temp to say, 87? and the thermostat would adjust my uth accordingly?
Click to expand...


Those thermostats are pure junk, sorry.. They have very tiny relays that weld themselves together in the "on" position providing full power to your heat source killing anything in the cage.. You might get one that will last 10 years or you might get one that will last 10 minutes.. And no I am not trying to sell anything here I just know stats:)
http://www.mgreptiles.com/thermoguts.html
 
justcage said:
Those thermostats are pure junk, sorry.. They have very tiny relays that weld themselves together in the "on" position providing full power to your heat source killing anything in the cage.. You might get one that will last 10 years or you might get one that will last 10 minutes.. And no I am not trying to sell anything here I just know stats:)
http://www.mgreptiles.com/thermoguts.html
Click to expand...

wow. thank you so much for that. until i get a thermostat, will my snake still be ok? i have a uth and then a pretty thick layer of reptile bark. it barely feels warm.

in the meantime, what do you reccomend for a good thermostat?
 
Hey, kinda off topic Just but any idea if my thermostat might arrive soon? I have ants in my pants, just can't wait! ;)

Rebecca
 
Hide box tip:

If you have multiple hides, and the snake is choosing the "wrong" one (temperature-wise), here is at least a temporary, possibly permanent, solution.

Take out all of the hides and replace them with one long, narrow hide that spans both warm and cool areas. For babies, a paper towel core "tunnel" (cut in half lengthwise) works. For larger snakes, either a long, fairly narrow piece of cork bark or hollow log, cut in half lengthwise, will work. Or use anything of similar proportions.

Once your room temps are warmer in the spring, or you don't think temps will be a problem for whatever reason, you can try going back to the multi hides if you prefer.
 
pgr8dnlvr said:
Hey, kinda off topic Just but any idea if my thermostat might arrive soon? I have ants in my pants, just can't wait! ;)

Rebecca
Click to expand...

Email me, I am sure Rich does not want our business discussed on his forums.:)
 
I like the tube idea, though won't the baby go where it needs to go to be comfortable, or are they too scared to go anywhere?

Kathy
 
Sometimes I think the snakes will choose their favorite hide instead of the proper temp, if they have to make a choice. I love my corns, but nobody ever said they were the brainiest creatures in the world! If they don't seem to be making the best choices, why not make it easy for them?
 
kathylove said:
Sometimes I think the snakes will choose their favorite hide instead of the proper temp, if they have to make a choice. I love my corns, but nobody ever said they were the brainiest creatures in the world! If they don't seem to be making the best choices, why not make it easy for them?
Click to expand...

a great idea. ill try it. but wont switching out his old hides for new ones stress him out a bit? i know i wouldnt want someone to move me to a new house.
 
update

ive now switched the hide on the cold side with the one in the middle where the temp is 72F. she now stays under that hide rather than the one where the temp is 66F. And occasionly goes on the hot side 84F. I fed her last sunday (after waiting 10days after a regurge) and she kept it down and it came out the right end. thankyou for the feedback. :cheers:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top