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Need help with corn snake
- Thread starter Willmccown
- Start date
Willmccown
New member
Thank you very much
DLena
Corns are goram shiny!
1. Rubbermaid TakeAlongs - almost 6 quarts- buy at Walmart, Wegmans. A pack of 5 cost me $10. Use extras for your kitchen leftovers.
2. Soldering iron from Walmart, $14. Heat it up and carefully use it to make holes in container. For a hatchling, use only the tip for tiny holes. The holes on mine are the full diameter of the heating point because I had a juvenile rosy boa in mine for quarantine.- I make holes all the way around.
3. Heat pad from a pet store or on-line. I bought this one from HorseLoverz.com for under $20. Quick arrival, too. Mine is larger so I could use it as I needed a larger tub.
4. T-stay also on line for $35 and digital thermometer at pet store for under $10.
5. Place probe for t-stay and thermometer on a piece of tinfoil large enough to wrap the UTH in one layer. Cover them with sticky side of heat mat. I leave the paper on the UTH and never had a problem. Make sure you place both probes near each other and firmly wrap the tin foil around the UTH. Just tear the foil so the cords stick out.
6. You need a water dish and two tiny hides. My picture shows a Tupperware container for water and one hide because my other little ones are in use. You can use anything small, dark and secure as a hide. And anything nonporous for water.
7. I found a second tiny hide. I use Aspen bedding so the snake can burrow. Dig down into aspen a bit with the hides so the snake has a tight fit.
8. I set wrapped UTH on styrofoam sheet to protect surface of table and give stability to the container. Make sure one hide is on UTH, on top of the two probes. You are good to go.
From that container, I move babies into a 4 gallon sterilite tub. Exactly the same set up. I use binder clips, 3 to a side to keep the lid super secure. Corns can squeeze out of tiny openings.
I'm posting the pictures in my album on my home page. Give me a few more minutes. I hope this helps.
There are other ways to do this, this is just how I do it. Let us all know how it works for you!
2. Soldering iron from Walmart, $14. Heat it up and carefully use it to make holes in container. For a hatchling, use only the tip for tiny holes. The holes on mine are the full diameter of the heating point because I had a juvenile rosy boa in mine for quarantine.- I make holes all the way around.
3. Heat pad from a pet store or on-line. I bought this one from HorseLoverz.com for under $20. Quick arrival, too. Mine is larger so I could use it as I needed a larger tub.
4. T-stay also on line for $35 and digital thermometer at pet store for under $10.
5. Place probe for t-stay and thermometer on a piece of tinfoil large enough to wrap the UTH in one layer. Cover them with sticky side of heat mat. I leave the paper on the UTH and never had a problem. Make sure you place both probes near each other and firmly wrap the tin foil around the UTH. Just tear the foil so the cords stick out.
6. You need a water dish and two tiny hides. My picture shows a Tupperware container for water and one hide because my other little ones are in use. You can use anything small, dark and secure as a hide. And anything nonporous for water.
7. I found a second tiny hide. I use Aspen bedding so the snake can burrow. Dig down into aspen a bit with the hides so the snake has a tight fit.
8. I set wrapped UTH on styrofoam sheet to protect surface of table and give stability to the container. Make sure one hide is on UTH, on top of the two probes. You are good to go.
From that container, I move babies into a 4 gallon sterilite tub. Exactly the same set up. I use binder clips, 3 to a side to keep the lid super secure. Corns can squeeze out of tiny openings.
I'm posting the pictures in my album on my home page. Give me a few more minutes. I hope this helps.
There are other ways to do this, this is just how I do it. Let us all know how it works for you!
Willmccown
New member
What do you think about me just setting up my old 20 gal ? I know it's probly still to big but better then my 50
Willmccown
New member
Yea pictures help a lot haveing just the heating pad will keep it warm enough?
Willmccown
New member
Well I know to get started on that set up then
what is roughly the size of a 8month old corn ?
what is roughly the size of a 8month old corn ?
Dragonling
Doesn't do "casual"
I can take some photos of my largest and smallest 2016s tomorrow morning with a ruler. I have everything from 20g eating large pinkies to nearly 80g ready to move up to hopper mice in a feeding or two. How often they're fed + genetics will affect the size. Most large breeders maintenance feed the babies they intend to sell, hence my 20g baby. My others were my own holdbacks though, and I've fed them heavily to get them growing quickly.
HerpsOfNM
My name's Blurryface...
In defense of a referenced breeder and his "small" 2016s... mine are running "small" too. Both he and I had rather late seasons. I didn't get my first hatchlings until late August and early Sept. I then also happened to be out of town, visiting my best friend and his wife after they'd moved back to the states from completing their post-docs in South Africa. Outside genetics, a late season can be a huge factor. It is for me for 2016 and was for SMR. Might want to know some facts before throwing people under the bus.
Willmccown
New member
If it means anything I didn't see or think that they where throwing any one under the bus just stating the size and why
Dragonling
Doesn't do "casual"
Late seasons WILL do that, for sure. I meant no disrespect to Don or anyone else, only that breeders who are selling hundreds to thousands of babies per year aren't exactly going to be feeding them twice a week. A smaller breeder might be slightly more likely to have larger 2016 leftovers.
Willmccown
New member
How do y'all feed baby corns do y'all imediatly start feeding frozen/thawed or start with live then change over ?
Willmccown
New member
do corn snakes useually refuse food ?
Dragonling
Doesn't do "casual"
As promised (though a bit later than I said, oops!):
The cherry amel male there is at least a month younger, possibly two months knowing how late SMR's season was last year. I have another from the same clutch as the classic who is only a tiny bit bigger than the cherry because he refused food for quite some time. The cayenne fire I bought in 2015 was about the same size as the cherry around his age and is well over 300g now, so I've no doubt that even though the new guy seems small comparatively, he's going to grow JUST fine.
Anyway, this is about the size range you're gonna find from leftover 2016s right now. Most are going to be quite well established eaters already, but some will still be fairly small so you still have lots of time to watch them grow up.
It's somewhat rare, at least compared to other species. A couple of my girls are being oddly fussy lately, and I did have one problem feeder hatchling for a while. It's not horribly common, but it does happen sometimes.
Willmccown
New member
Wow beautiful snakes thank you very much for the pictures I hope it wasent to put of the way for you
I am starting on the set up Dlena explained to me and let y'all know how that gose thank yall for being so helpful
I am starting on the set up Dlena explained to me and let y'all know how that gose thank yall for being so helpful
Karl_Mcknight
Common Sense Holder
Be very careful with your heating and monitoring. A lot of people make the mistake of trying to heat the inside of the cage to about 85 degrees and they use one of those stick on thermometers on the side of the cage. The problem is, in order to get that thermometer to read 85 degrees, that's going to leave the bottom of the tank at a Blistering temperature, and where does the snake actually crawl and live? Yep, on the bottom. When you monitor your cage temps, make sure the temp is measured inside the snake's Hiding Box where he will spend most of his time. Inside that box is where you want it to be 85 degrees. The other side of the tank should just be room temperature (70 to 80) and that way the snake has a choice of whether to warm up or cool down. You'll need a thermostat to adjust your heat pad and a good digital thermometer with a probe. Most of us affix the probe to the actual heat pad under the tank. You might actually have to set the pad higher to get the reading you want. For example, I have to set my pad at 91 degrees. By the time the Heat travels through the bottom glass, the carpeting, and the porcelain hide box, the actual temp inside the hide is around 85. It might dip to 82 on a really cold day or rise to 87 on a warm day, but minor fluctuations like that are ok. Corn snakes come from the Southeastern USA where the summer temps frequently go over 100. But you would not want you snake to have to endure that. He is going to be most comfortable between 75 and 85.
Got my blizzard corn from there. My only complaint is that they sold my corn without ever feeding it (was only like 2 weeks old when I got it) So it was supppppper hard to get him to start eating. (check hatch date) I didn't do this and it caused constant stress. Either than that great company with huge variety.