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parasites?? help please

:awcrap:
TripleMoonsExotic said:
Where did you get that impression from?
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i never really saw anything on thermostats. like it just seemed like everyone alwasy said make sure you have a UTH but i dont remember ever really seeing a thermostat being required. i saw it a couple of times being recommended. ? :awcrap:
 
tstephe3 said:
i never really saw anything on thermostats. like it just seemed like everyone alwasy said make sure you have a UTH but i dont remember ever really seeing a thermostat being required. i saw it a couple of times being recommended. ? :awcrap:
Click to expand...

Well, in the ZooMed Instruction Book, for example, it does suggest the use of a thermostat to control the heat output. Dunno about the other brands. :shrugs:

Either way, pick up a thermostat first and foremost. The regurgitation problem may right itself with proper husbandry practices. :)
 
Nanci said:
The UTH can reach 120-130 degrees, unregulated. If I'm cutting the pink lengthwise, I do it before thawing, like with a cleaver, and then thaw wrapped in plastic wrap, just the half I'm using. I cut a whole pink into thirds with fingernail scissors after thawing, and feed the whole thing as the next step. I learned this from Kathy Love.

You put the Nutribac in the water, and change the water evey day. Once she feeds again, you liberally sprinkle the mouse with it,m and can stop putting it in the water.

For a healthy baby snake, who would be eating double pinks, a seven day feeding interval is the longest you ought to go. 14 days is way too long for a baby. Many people feed babies at five day intervals, I would say most people, except some breeders who are saving time/resources.
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ok.. thanks alot.

Nanci said:
I use Big Apple Herp dual-probed temperature thermometers. Something that is really, really nice is a temp gun. They aren't so expensive. You don't need the kind with a laser. That way, you can measure the temps instantly all over the whole surace of the mat, as well as various spots in the viv, the temp of mice, etc.
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ok, as far as thermo stats. id like to try to keep the price down. so on the page triplemoonsexotic gave me the link for. the 30 dollar ones that are Alife Reptile Temperature Controller, would those work? or do you suggest getting a better one?

i think i will try to invest in a temp gun.

TripleMoonsExotic said:
You need one digital thermometer per enclosure so that you can monitor temperatures with a single glance as opposed to moving it around to check when you feel like it.

Personally, I like the Acu-Rite ones you can get at Walmart for $14 because they store the minimum/maximum temperatures and do humidity.
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thanks



wow, so i think ive learned enoguh to make my head explode in like 30 min. and i just started back to classes this week. awesome.

thanks again. and keep the info comin looks like i need it
 
tstephe3 said:
ok, as far as thermo stats. id like to try to keep the price down. so on the page triplemoonsexotic gave me the link for. the 30 dollar ones that are Alife Reptile Temperature Controller, would those work? or do you suggest getting a better one?
Click to expand...

The Alife ones used to be made by ESU (I think - they look identical), and I used them for a while with a single heating pad under glass tanks, so they should be fine for what you need.
 
TripleMoonsExotic said:
Well, in the ZooMed Instruction Book, for example, it does suggest the use of a thermostat to control the heat output. Dunno about the other brands. :shrugs:

Either way, pick up a thermostat first and foremost. The regurgitation problem may right itself with proper husbandry practices. :)
Click to expand...


ok.. well its just weird because i really havent changed anything with her husbandry since ive gotten her. temps have all been the same. it was just scary to have it pop up liek this. :shrugs:
 
TripleMoonsExotic said:
The Alife ones used to be made by ESU (I think - they look identical), and I used them for a while with a single heating pad under glass tanks, so they should be fine for what you need.
Click to expand...

well since i have 5 different tanks should i be able to get just 2? since it did say that i can plug in 3 at once.
 
tstephe3 said:
well since i have 5 different tanks should i be able to get just 2? since it did say that i can plug in 3 at once.
Click to expand...

If all have the same size UTH and tank, and the combined wattage for the 3 that are plugged in per thermostat is lower then what the thermostat is rated, you should be ok.
 
alright. thanks alot everyone. i ordered thermostats, 3 just for future use as well. and i talked to kathy love tonight and will be getting the NutriBac as soon as possible.
 
Wow Trent! Didn't know you were having problems with your King.:( Hopefully everything turns out good!

Oh and speaking of thermostats. I just built a rheostat for Orion and it works pretty good!

I know you already ordered the thermostats which makes more sense when you have multiple tanks but the rheostat was really cheap to make, i was really surprised by the outcome.

Anyways keep me posted on what happens with your King!
 
well... bad news. Boo died Tuesday morning before I got anything in the mail. It sucks, I really loved her colors. :cry:

I guess looking at the plus side, I learned I need thermostats and will have them hopefully soon. And I'll have NutriBac just incase I have problems in the future.

Thank you so much for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
 
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