Everything looks good. Cage could be argued to be too large, and though I'd agree to that I'd also disagree. since you're setup as described, I'm going to assume your temps are appropriate.
So you're dealing with possibly what's known as OOE, or out-of-egg. Hatched on the 29th and arrived on the 10th is only 12 days. I, personally, won't sell hatchling snakes that haven't eaten at least 5 times. I prefer 10 meals, much like when I used to breed hognose snakes. It hatched on July 29th, it should have had its first shed around Aug 3 to Aug 5. First meal can generally be attempted around this time as the baby has probably also had its first defecation as a result of this shed.
What I'm getting at is though possible it's highly suspect that this snake has eaten or even eaten multiple times before you obtained it. DO NOT fret over this.
In your other threads, you've been linked to Nanci's problem feeder how-to, as well as Nanci posting an assist feed video. At almost a month old, it is still very plausible that your young one is "feeding" off of yolk reserves from when it was still in egg just before it hatched.
If it were me, I would try leaving the snake alone for a week. No handling, nothing. I know you mentioned going to school too...
From being shipped up until now it seems wee one has had a lot of attention and this could be a huge driving factor in it not eating. In giving it a week of no attention (other than water), pick a day that is best for you and that will be your feed day. This could be Wednesday, or any of the other 6 days in the week.
I agree with the reddit poster!!! Most people prefer to feed in a separate feeding cage. When I'm getting new ones first started on feeding I too feed outside of cage. Once I've got 3 meals into my hatchlings I then start offering to them within their cage. Out of over 50 corns and a number of other snake species, I only have 2 snakes that are cage aggressive from feeding in cage - a green tree python and a cal king. In your case, feeding in cage may allow the snake to feel much more secure. But you are also dealing with 20 gallons of floor space, plenty of room for hiding and not facing pinkie.
If you opt to still feed out of cage, do so in a warm area for starters. Before hand, go to your nearest grocery store and see if the deli counter will give you a 16 oz deli cup. They are about 3 inches tall by 5 inches in diameter...roughly off top of me head.
Armed with this deli cup, find a small dark box or other solid-colored container that will fit the deli cup. The idea here is a makeshift hide. Next, get a piece of regular 8.5 x 11 paper. This will be the lid to our makeshift hide.
Assuming you have some frozen small pinkies on hand, thaw the smallest 1 out. Next, if you live at home mom/dad are about to love you... in a small pot boil about a cup of water. While waiting for water to boil, place the snake into the deli cup, deli cup into box, and cover box with piece of paper. Using a strainer, place pinkie into it and once water is boiling, pour CAREFULLY the boiling water over the pinkie. You're only going to pour enough to cause a slight color change to the pinkie - you don't want to cook the entire pinkie! You won't need the whole cup of water to accomplish this.
Pat the pinkie mostly dry with a paper towel. I do this with gloves on to avoid any of my scent on the pinkie. Next use tweezers to remove the pinkie off paper towel and place into the deli cup with the snake.
For the first 2 hours, check every 20-30 minutes ONLY by lifting the piece of paper up enough to see if the pinkie is still in the deli cup or if it's been consumed. If consumed, congrats! If not, leave everything set up and undisturbed. Keep checking every 20-30 minutes. If nothing after 3-4 hours, stop checking and let the snake and pinkie become buddies overnight. Hopefully it ate overnight, if not repeat this in 5 days.
If it's still refusing to eat, then I'd start working my way down Nanci's problem feeder page.
